After the calm clear weather on Dartmoor, the next day was a refreshing change. Still plenty of blue sky around but now mixed with some dark black storm clouds and a keen blustery wind. Perfect for a coastal walk. We parked up at Treyarnon Bay, one of our favourites and headed south for an out and back before lunch.
There were some stunning cloud and rainbow effects and some of the clouds looked very angry and full of rain
The stormy seas, crashing waves and winter light make for great photos. I used the HDR setting on my iPhone for these and it takes a damn fine photo
This storm had me worried but it passed us bay
The first stretch to Porthcothan, the next beach along is fairly flat but takes a while to walk as the cliffs are constantly indented by wild, deep and inaccessible coves all with wonderful names. Pepper, Warren and Fox Coves, Minnows Islands, Will’s Rock
TBH looking happy with a very angry storm sweeping past. Luckily it only rained for a couple of minutes while we were out and we had some glorious sunshine
We hoped there might be a cafe or something at Porthcothan but everything was shut for the winter. We pushed on south towards the headland at Park Head
It was glorious walking if a little wild and windy
Another cove at Porth Mear
And looking back north the way we’d come along Tescore Islands
Time was pressing so we turned around and headed back before we reached the headland
Porthcothan beach was now exposed by the tide and Will’s Rock was framed in the surf
From there it was a race against the weather to reach the YHA at Treyarnon Bay for lunch. We won – just – rain battering the windows as we settled in. It’s a really fine cafe and we had a lovely light Tapas style lunch. A walk of over 8 miles so we’d earned it.
Now the actual plan had been to do some kayak surfing and body-boarding in the afternoon. Sitting in the warmth of the cafe it suddenly seemed like a rather stupid idea. After preparing a detailed list of safety conscious excuses we decided another short stroll along the cliffs and an amble around Padstow was a much more sensible plan
I think the photos justify that decision
Padstow is a tourist hotspot and rammed in summer. In November it returns to being a quiet fishing village with a handful of people. Not a great place if you are on a diet though. Its packed with excellent, restaurants, cafes and bakeries selling pasties and the like. We managed to avoid temptation (other than a sneaky millionaire shortbread) as we were eating out in the evening
The setting sun created some wonderful vistas
The harbour in particular looked rather fine
And to finish off, a couple of photos from our B&B bedroom window. Not too shabby
This is what birthday’s should be about (if you can’t afford a tropical white sand beach anyway)
Day two of our weekend away in Devon and Cornwall and time to swap high moors for coastal cliffs and beaches. More showers were in the air so it looked like one of those days when waterproofs would be regularly on and off. We planned to repeat a circuit we’d done a few years back when staying in Trevone, cutting across the peninsula and back to Padstow around Stepper Point. The walk across the fields was actually quite pleasant. No muddy corners or overgrown stiles. The first stretch was through a waving field of young wheat or barley
As we caught first sight of the coast we were hit by the first soaking downpour. Only lasted a few minutes but enough to dampen the spirits a little
Just as quickly the sun came out, spirits and waterproofs were dried out as we walked down to the sea at Trevone Beach
Walking out to the headland, we were soaked again!
This was a short sharp shower and luckily for us the last one of the day. The flowers in the coastal meadow are always a delight in the SW
We circled Trevone Round Hole, one of several sea caves with a collapsed roof in the area
The coastline along this stretch is dramatic and the path twists and turns around the small headlands, revealing numerous caves and sea arches. This is Porthmissen Bridge
This dramatic feature near Gunver Head doesn’t seem to have a name on the map although the parcel split off from the cliffs does, Middle Merope Island
From there to Stepper Point and its abandoned lighthouse its a less dramatic but glorious walk across wild flower be-decked meadows along grassy paths. In the warming sunshine its was marvellous
From the headland you get grand views across to Polzeath and back inland along the Camel estuary towards Padstow (hidden from sight)
The wild flowers in the hedgerows along the path prompted me to take a photo
We took to the beach at Harbour Cove to walk back towards Padstow.
The sun came out in full effect and with the gentle clear waters in the sheltered estuary and the pale sand it felt almost tropical
Without shades, the light was blindingly bright but the scene was a happy one of people strolling and enjoying the simple pleasures of playing with various dogs and kids. I enjoyed this stretch immensely
Sadly the beach finishes among the rocks and you are forced to rejoin the crowds as you head back into Padstow. It was as busy as always but in a nice way. We enjoyed a pasty from the Chough bakery (the best in Cornwall that I’ve tried) serenaded by a half decent busker
A pretty decent 8 miles for half a day but that day wasn’t yet over
Time for some water based fun for TBF at least. Treyarnon Bay is one of our favourites and we headed back again. One of the reasons for visiting Cornwall for my Birthday is for me to catch some waves. Bad news was that my car was in for repairs and I had no way to carry my kayak on the roof of the loan car they gave me. I also had a bad cold and didn’t think splashing about in cold water was a good idea. Last time I was dumb enough to do that I got a nasty sinus infection that I wasn’t keen to repeat
I took on the role of photographer and beach potterer in chief and spent a happy couple of hours poking about on the sand in the caves and watching TBF body boarding
I took a final stroll along the path watching a newly wed couple (the bride in a backless dress) having their wedding photos taken in the strong chilly breeze. She looked very cold!
A superb day finished off with another fine seafood meal at the excellent Prawn on the Lawn
A coastal walk today to contrast with the moorland walk of the previous day. Before that a nice little photo of our B&B
We’ve walked many stretches of the coast in the neighbourhood having spent many family holidays down in Cornwall. Trevose Head is one neither of us had done so it seemed an obvious route. Winter had arrived and it was windy and bitterly cold but with a sharp clarity to the air and hopefully not too many showers. We parked up by the beach at Treyarnon Bay, one of our favourites but today we were the only car there
It was a wonderful morning, crashing waves and a mix of blue skies and threatening clouds
Along Constantine Bay beach and then past the very splendidly named Boobys Bay
As you approach the headland there is another “Round Hole” where a sea cave roof has collapsed. Very impressive.
The walks continue around the headland and past the lighthouse
As you round the headland the next three coves of Mother Iveys, Harlyn and Trevone Bays come into view
Mother Iveys Bay is steeply shelving so the waves hit the shore close in making for a great scene of Atlantic aggression.
As we approached Harlyn Bay we caught a glimpse of a seal and he played in the waves while we watched for a few minutes
Onto our last beach at Harlyn
I liked the contrast between the clouds the rippled sand and the seaweed covered rocks
Back along the lanes to the car and with a seven mile walk I was feeling the knee strain when I got back to the car. We decided that we’d earned a lunch at the very nice cafe at the YHA, soup and cider the order of the day
We actually managed to go in the sea as well for some kayaking and body boarding fun. Unsurprisingly we had the sea to ourselves what with it being bitterly cold. I wish I’d taken my camera as after one bruising hailstorm the views were sublime.
A cracking day finished off with another meal out, this time at The Basement in Padstow and once again, wonderful food as part of an ongoing birthday treat. A sacrifice I was willing to make 🙂
Main focus of the post to come but a few photos from a lunchtime stroll around the thronging crowds in RickSteinVille aka Padstow. It’s a really rather splendid little place and despite my dislike of tourist crowds I have something of a soft sport for the place. Possibly on account of the fact that it’s a foodies heaven with lots of great cafes, and the best pasties in Cornwall in my opinion from The Chough Bakery. The views from up on the hill just out-of-town are rather splendid as you can see
One of my recent book purchases from the “Wild” series by Daniel Start was one about the South West containing more than just Wild Swimming spots. Bodmin Moor looked to be packed with interesting stuff and I’d never seen it (other than passing through on the A30 on way to and from Cornwall). Time to change that. I’d been looking across longingly from the campsite at the distant tors from the campsite but the weather always looked considerably greyer and gloomier than the coast. However on our last day it looked better and we’d headed off for a day of exploration
First stop was Delford Bridge. It was a beautiful spot, with an old bridge across a lazy river surrounding by grassy expanses, just perfect for a laze in the sun and a picnic. Of course as soon as we stepped from the car it chucked it down. A picnic sheltering under the tailgate of the car had to suffice 🙂
I’d had grand plans for some Bodmin Moor wild swimming either here in the nearby quarry lakes on Carbilly Tor. The weather was just awful, heavy persistent drizzle and low cloud. In search of inspiration I took a punt that with a northerly wind the southern side of the moors might be drier.
Inspired. As soon as we crossed the A30 the rain stopped and the sun appeared. Smug hat ready. We stopped off for a stroll at Golitha Falls. A series of cascades on the River Fowey and very nice they were too. No major cascades but very pretty with a very large pool at the end for a swim in warmer weather and lots of old mine workings.
Onwards and moor-wards to the wonderfully named village of Minions. Loads of interesting stuff round here and we went out for an explore. The area is full of old mine workings and they create an evocative sense of a past age now long gone
First stop was the summit of Stowe’s Hill with its granite tors. Most famous is the Cheesewring, an impossibly piled collection of rocks perched above a disused quarry.
The views across the moors were impressive and were just begging for a long walk and an explore
As we continued our walk the skies became a mix of sunshine and dark stormy clouds that lit up the tors to great effect.
Onto our next objective, the disused Goldiggins Quarry with its spring fed lake. It looks stunning even under a greyish sky. Another potential spot for a swim but it was still very chilly and there were some people camped there who probably didn’t wish to their evening spoiled by the sight of me splashing about.
The other attraction on Bodmin Moor are the remains of ancient civilisations and stone circles. The local one here is The Hurlers. Have to say that I always find these things of limited interest but this one was impressively sited and the late afternoon light made it an evocative place.
So with our Bodmin Moor itch scratched for the day we headed home to a final sunset.
The British weather gave us a final little slap by delivering a fine warm and sunny day when we needed to go home. We thought it would be nice to spend a last day on the beach before the long journey. As the campsite was half empty and the main summer weeks over I asked if we could leave the camper up for an extra few hours so we could enjoy our last few hours. I was slightly taken aback when this was firmly refused as the owner gave no indication that there was anyone using the pitch that day. We often ask for this favour on campsites when they are not busy and have never been refused before. In fact once on a nearby site when staying in a static I asked the same thing and we were welcomed to stay an extra night and the owners refused to take any extra money for the extra night.
My main concern was having to tow the trailer down the narrow lanes to the beach. I asked if I could just leave the trailer tucked away somewhere on the site which I thought was a perfectly reasonable request. Again this request was flatly refused and we were left in no uncertain terms that we were to be off the site completely by the stated time. Have to say this left a very sour taste after a great week and developing a real affection for the site and it’s location. Some of the conversations around the site seem to indicate a large number of guests have been coming back for years leaving me feeling that the site is little cliquey. It rather ruined my view of the site and despite its fantastic location I doubt I will ever go back. A real shame.
So we towed the trailer down the lanes to the beach and spent a last happy afternoon at Treyarnon Bay. A hot pork sandwich from the beach cafe followed by a swim around the rocks to the rock pool and an ice cream to finish off the trip
A great week despite it being colder than October and no waves. A long wait till the next major holiday but that should be good one – more of that later in the year
More beach fun and coastal views this time from the local beach at Treyarnon Bay.
One of the main reasons for visiting Cornwall (well for me and the Funsters anyway) is a chance to play in the big Atlantic waves. Kayaking for me, body-boarding for the Funsters. Alas a northerly wind killed the surf so we had to seek alternative enjoyment
Treyarnon is a wonderful beach and has an extra feature in the form of huge natural rock-pool perfect for swimming and jumping.
We spent a very happy hour in the sunshine (and cold wind) playing in its icy waters. TBF was in charge of the camera so you get the dubious honour of seeing photos of me for a change!
Even TJS took a swim which was unusual
We found a lovely warm , sheltered rock shelf to relax and warm up after the swim.
Another coastal walk with the tide extremely low reveals a section of stunning hidden beaches at Pepper Cove, Warren Cove and Fox Cove just by the campsite. It would take some serious and rather edgy looking cliff scrambling to access these gems.
The evening delivered another stunning sunset as we took our regular, cold stroll along the cliffs to finish the day
Next up is a day dedicated to TBF and her Birthday day out 🙂
Time to move on. We were spending the majority of our holiday down near Padstow at a place called Trethias Farm. It’s a splendid place, quiet, walking distance from the beach with stunning coastal views.
The perfect site, or so we thought until the day we left but more of that in a later post.
Our first evening treated us to a spectacular sunset, probably the best part of holiday on the west coast.
After a washout day of dreary rain, things improved and the rest of the week was mainly sunny albeit unseasonably cold with a strong northerly wind for the whole time we were there. We took the short drive to Bedruthan Steps which, as you can see is a spectacular spot.
It’s only accessible at low tide and even then only by a steep set of steps hewn into the rock. Once on the sands on a sunny day its a fabulous spot to spend a couple of hours
Strong currents mean there is no swimming here so wandering about scrambling on the rocks (and through them, there are several caves) and just enjoying the scene are the order of the day
As it’s a taxing climb and more than a 5 second walk from the car its relatively quiet by Cornwall standards
The beach gets its name from the huge rock towers that stud the beach, said to be stepping-stones for the giant Bedruthan. Evocative names as well. Carnewas Island, Pendarves Island, Redcove Island, Samaritan Island, Queen Bess Rock, Diggory’s Island, They add a very photogenic attraction to this superb stretch of golden sand.
It’s pretty much the perfect beach for walking and exploring (if not water-based fun). Loads of secret little corners, and pocket coves with deep turquoise pools in the sand.
Perfect morning activity to work up an appetite for a picnic lunch back at the campsite – and a quick snooze for some
I spend alot of my time surfing the web looking for ideas on places to go, walking routes, travel ideas and tips to plan the perfect holiday or day out. (I'm a project manager I like to plan). I thought it was time to share my own experiences and contribute to the vast amounts in information that's already out there.
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