South and West to Cornwall – Part 5   6 comments

Main focus of the post to come but a few photos from a lunchtime stroll around the thronging crowds in RickSteinVille aka Padstow. It’s a really rather splendid little place and despite my dislike of tourist crowds I have something of a soft sport for the place. Possibly on account of the fact that it’s a foodies heaven with lots of great cafes, and the best pasties in Cornwall in my opinion from The Chough Bakery. The views from up on the hill just out-of-town are rather splendid as you can see

bodmin moor, delford bridge, goldiggins quarry, golitha falls, minions, padstow, stowes hill, sunset, the cheesewring, treyarnon bay

bodmin moor, delford bridge, goldiggins quarry, golitha falls, minions, padstow, stowes hill, sunset, the cheesewring, treyarnon bay

bodmin moor, delford bridge, goldiggins quarry, golitha falls, minions, padstow, stowes hill, sunset, the cheesewring, treyarnon bay

One of my recent book purchases from the “Wild” series by Daniel Start was one about the South West containing more than just Wild Swimming spots. Bodmin Moor looked to be packed with interesting stuff and I’d never seen it (other than passing through on the A30 on way to and from Cornwall). Time to change that. I’d been looking across longingly from the campsite at the distant tors from the campsite but the weather always looked considerably greyer and gloomier than the coast. However on our last day it looked better and we’d headed off for a day of exploration

First stop was Delford Bridge. It was a beautiful spot, with an old bridge across a lazy river surrounding by grassy expanses, just perfect for a laze in the sun and a picnic. Of course as soon as we stepped from the car it chucked it down. A picnic sheltering under the tailgate of the car had to suffice 🙂

bodmin moor, delford bridge, goldiggins quarry, golitha falls, minions, padstow, stowes hill, sunset, the cheesewring, treyarnon bay

bodmin moor, delford bridge, goldiggins quarry, golitha falls, minions, padstow, stowes hill, sunset, the cheesewring, treyarnon bay

I’d had grand plans for some Bodmin Moor wild swimming either here in the nearby quarry lakes on Carbilly Tor. The weather was just awful, heavy persistent drizzle and low cloud. In search of inspiration I took a punt that with a northerly wind the southern side of the moors might be drier.

Inspired. As soon as we crossed the A30 the rain stopped and the sun appeared. Smug hat ready. We stopped off for a stroll at Golitha Falls. A series of cascades on the River Fowey and very nice they were too. No major cascades but very pretty with a very large pool at the end for a swim in warmer weather and lots of old mine workings.

bodmin moor, delford bridge, goldiggins quarry, golitha falls, minions, padstow, stowes hill, sunset, the cheesewring, treyarnon bay

bodmin moor, delford bridge, goldiggins quarry, golitha falls, minions, padstow, stowes hill, sunset, the cheesewring, treyarnon bay

bodmin moor, delford bridge, goldiggins quarry, golitha falls, minions, padstow, stowes hill, sunset, the cheesewring, treyarnon bay

bodmin moor, delford bridge, goldiggins quarry, golitha falls, minions, padstow, stowes hill, sunset, the cheesewring, treyarnon bay

bodmin moor, delford bridge, goldiggins quarry, golitha falls, minions, padstow, stowes hill, sunset, the cheesewring, treyarnon bay

bodmin moor, delford bridge, goldiggins quarry, golitha falls, minions, padstow, stowes hill, sunset, the cheesewring, treyarnon bay

Onwards and moor-wards to the wonderfully named village of Minions. Loads of interesting stuff round here and we went out for an explore. The area is full of old mine workings and they create an evocative sense of a past age now long gone

bodmin moor, delford bridge, goldiggins quarry, golitha falls, minions, padstow, stowes hill, sunset, the cheesewring, treyarnon bay

bodmin moor, delford bridge, goldiggins quarry, golitha falls, minions, padstow, stowes hill, sunset, the cheesewring, treyarnon bay

bodmin moor, delford bridge, goldiggins quarry, golitha falls, minions, padstow, stowes hill, sunset, the cheesewring, treyarnon bay

bodmin moor, delford bridge, goldiggins quarry, golitha falls, minions, padstow, stowes hill, sunset, the cheesewring, treyarnon bay

First stop was the summit of Stowe’s Hill with its granite tors. Most famous is the Cheesewring, an impossibly piled collection of rocks perched above a disused quarry.

bodmin moor, delford bridge, goldiggins quarry, golitha falls, minions, padstow, stowes hill, sunset, the cheesewring, treyarnon bay

bodmin moor, delford bridge, goldiggins quarry, golitha falls, minions, padstow, stowes hill, sunset, the cheesewring, treyarnon bay

bodmin moor, delford bridge, goldiggins quarry, golitha falls, minions, padstow, stowes hill, sunset, the cheesewring, treyarnon bay

bodmin moor, delford bridge, goldiggins quarry, golitha falls, minions, padstow, stowes hill, sunset, the cheesewring, treyarnon bay

bodmin moor, delford bridge, goldiggins quarry, golitha falls, minions, padstow, stowes hill, sunset, the cheesewring, treyarnon bay

The views across the moors were impressive and were just begging for a long walk and an explore

bodmin moor, delford bridge, goldiggins quarry, golitha falls, minions, padstow, stowes hill, sunset, the cheesewring, treyarnon bay

bodmin moor, delford bridge, goldiggins quarry, golitha falls, minions, padstow, stowes hill, sunset, the cheesewring, treyarnon bay

As we continued our walk the skies became a mix of sunshine and dark stormy clouds that lit up the tors to great effect.

bodmin moor, delford bridge, goldiggins quarry, golitha falls, minions, padstow, stowes hill, sunset, the cheesewring, treyarnon bay

bodmin moor, delford bridge, goldiggins quarry, golitha falls, minions, padstow, stowes hill, sunset, the cheesewring, treyarnon bay

bodmin moor, delford bridge, goldiggins quarry, golitha falls, minions, padstow, stowes hill, sunset, the cheesewring, treyarnon bay

Onto our next objective, the disused Goldiggins Quarry with its spring fed lake. It looks stunning even under a greyish sky. Another potential spot for a swim but it was still very chilly and there were some people camped there who probably didn’t wish to their evening spoiled by the sight of me splashing about.

bodmin moor, delford bridge, goldiggins quarry, golitha falls, minions, padstow, stowes hill, sunset, the cheesewring, treyarnon bay

bodmin moor, delford bridge, goldiggins quarry, golitha falls, minions, padstow, stowes hill, sunset, the cheesewring, treyarnon bay

bodmin moor, delford bridge, goldiggins quarry, golitha falls, minions, padstow, stowes hill, sunset, the cheesewring, treyarnon bay

bodmin moor, delford bridge, goldiggins quarry, golitha falls, minions, padstow, stowes hill, sunset, the cheesewring, treyarnon bay

The other attraction on Bodmin Moor are the remains of ancient civilisations and stone circles. The local one here is The Hurlers. Have to say that I always find these things of limited interest but this one was impressively sited and the late afternoon light made it an evocative place.

bodmin moor, delford bridge, goldiggins quarry, golitha falls, minions, padstow, stowes hill, sunset, the cheesewring, treyarnon bay

bodmin moor, delford bridge, goldiggins quarry, golitha falls, minions, padstow, stowes hill, sunset, the cheesewring, treyarnon bay

bodmin moor, delford bridge, goldiggins quarry, golitha falls, minions, padstow, stowes hill, sunset, the cheesewring, treyarnon bay

bodmin moor, delford bridge, goldiggins quarry, golitha falls, minions, padstow, stowes hill, sunset, the cheesewring, treyarnon bay

So with our Bodmin Moor itch scratched for the day we headed home to a final sunset.

bodmin moor, delford bridge, goldiggins quarry, golitha falls, minions, padstow, stowes hill, sunset, the cheesewring, treyarnon bay

bodmin moor, delford bridge, goldiggins quarry, golitha falls, minions, padstow, stowes hill, sunset, the cheesewring, treyarnon bay

bodmin moor, delford bridge, goldiggins quarry, golitha falls, minions, padstow, stowes hill, sunset, the cheesewring, treyarnon bay

The British weather gave us a final little slap by delivering a fine warm and sunny day when we needed to go home. We thought it would be nice to spend a last day on the beach before the long journey. As the campsite was half empty and the main summer weeks over I asked if we could leave the camper up for an extra few hours so we could enjoy our last few hours. I was slightly taken aback when this was firmly refused as the owner gave no indication that there was anyone using the pitch that day. We often ask for this favour on campsites when they are not busy and have never been refused before. In fact once on a nearby site when staying in a static I asked the same thing and we were welcomed to stay an extra night and the owners refused to take any extra money for the extra night.

My main concern was having to tow the trailer down the narrow lanes to the beach. I asked if I could just leave the trailer tucked away somewhere on the site which I thought was a perfectly reasonable request. Again this request was flatly refused and we were left in no uncertain terms that we were to be off the site completely by the stated time. Have to say this left a very sour taste after a great week and developing a real affection for the site and it’s location. Some of the conversations around the site seem to indicate a large number of guests have been coming back for years leaving me feeling that the site is little cliquey. It rather ruined my view of the site and despite its fantastic location I doubt I will ever go back. A real shame.

So we towed the trailer down the lanes to the beach and spent a last happy afternoon at Treyarnon Bay. A hot pork sandwich from the beach cafe followed by a swim around the rocks to the rock pool and an ice cream to finish off the trip

bodmin moor, delford bridge, goldiggins quarry, golitha falls, minions, padstow, stowes hill, sunset, the cheesewring, treyarnon bay

bodmin moor, delford bridge, goldiggins quarry, golitha falls, minions, padstow, stowes hill, sunset, the cheesewring, treyarnon bay

bodmin moor, delford bridge, goldiggins quarry, golitha falls, minions, padstow, stowes hill, sunset, the cheesewring, treyarnon bay

bodmin moor, delford bridge, goldiggins quarry, golitha falls, minions, padstow, stowes hill, sunset, the cheesewring, treyarnon bay

bodmin moor, delford bridge, goldiggins quarry, golitha falls, minions, padstow, stowes hill, sunset, the cheesewring, treyarnon bay

A great week despite it being colder than October and no waves. A long wait till the next major holiday but that should be good one – more of that later in the year

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6 responses to “South and West to Cornwall – Part 5

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  1. An excellent photo advert for the area!

    There’s always a site or two that seem to be run by little Hitlers…..one of the reasons we wild camp with the van so much!

    Like

    • The days started off a bit dreary but once the sun came out Bodmin Moor revealed a whole treasure trove of great stuff. Well worth a full explore and well off the beaten track

      The campsite owner wasn’t unpleasant, just completely unwilling to entertain any flexibility to the rules. Had it been the middle of the busy summer period I wouldn’t have asked as I know they need to get people in/out of the pitches but the site was about 20% occupied as most families had already gone back to school. Clearly he felt no need to encourage repeat visitors as he has enough regular clients making a more an exclusive club than a campsite. His loss we’ll go elsewhere next time

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  2. This certainly looks like a superb area for a holiday – you just need to bring the weather next time.

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    beatingthebounds
    • Some warm sunshine would have gone down well but we only had one really wet day in over a week so can’t complain too much. We’ve always just been beach addicts on previous trips but now I’ve discovered Bodmin Moor (Dartmoor also looks great) its opens a whole load more possibilities for adventure, fun and exploration. Its a really great area once you learn the tricks to avoid the worst of the crowds and the over-developed parts

      Like

  3. Stunning photos. In many of Your photos, landscapes are quite similar with those which we have in Finland in our Northernmost part called Lapland.

    Have a great day!

    Like

    • Hi Matti
      I often think the same when looking at your photos! Large parts of Scotland, especially the Cairngorms resemble an arctic tundra landscape. Bodmin Moor is in the south of England and only a few hundred metres high but still has a similar feel. Glad you enjoyed the photos 🙂

      Liked by 1 person

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