After the Prof joined us we spent most of the second week, revisiting some our favourite spots with him. Limone, Lago di Tenno, Lago di Ledro, Riva. One of the days we decided to do something different.
We took the cable car from Malcesine early in the morning up to the Monte Baldo ridge at Bocca Tratto Spino.
Early morning view of Malcesine from the Cable Car.
Up on the ridge the early morning views were magnificent. Looking towards the highest section of the Monte Baldo ridge.
And down towards Malcesine and the lake.
Our plan was to have an alfresco breakfast before heading off for a walk. We even convinced TJF to join us although she didn’t partake in the walk, preferring to rest on the top, take a drink in the bar terrace overlooking the lake before heading back down to Malcesine for some retail therapy
We set off along the ridge heading for the higher summits.
We’d hoped that it would be cool enough for a walk but even up here at 2,000m it was pretty hot even in the morning. The Prof soon decided he’d had enough of the heat and headed back to the terrace bar.
Me and TBF carried on hoping to reach the first of the summit peak ridges at Cima delle Pozzette although our initial plan to reach the very highest summit beyond was clearly not an option in the heat.
We slowed the pace now our plan was less ambitious and were able to enjoy the stupendous views over the endless ranges of deep valleys and mountains at a more leisurely pace.
The ridge is an easy walk, with just the odd moment where hands are needed and no exposure.
Its a woonderful mix of rocky sections and woodland.
Its quite a long way though – in these conditions at any rate.
One of the rockier sections.
Wonderful views down to the deep blue of Lake Garda.
And equally superb views back along our route to Monte Altissimo di Nago at the other end of the ridge.
We eventually reached the summit of Cima delle Pozzette at 2,132m. Fabulous views of the high parts of the ridge and the summits of Cima del Longino and the highest point of Monte Baldo at Cima Valdritta. The onward route requires the use of fixed cables and a head for heights as well as some exposed scrambling. One for another day.
We took a brief rest on the top, largely on account of the flying ants (why do they love the summits of mountains, both in Europe and the UK)
More views over the southern end of the lake.
And back along the our ascent route and Monte Altissimo di Nago.
Moderately happy looking selfie.
Time to retrace our steps back to the cable car station.
We met up with the Prof for a beer and lunch at the bar before heading back down to Malcesine for a swim, more drinks and another fine meal at our favourite restaurant.
The day ended with heavy thunderstorms before we headed back to the campsite. And that was pretty much it for the Lake Garda part of our trip. We dropped TJF at Verona airport to make her way home while me, TBF and the Prof started our journey back with a little stop off on the way.
The Prof was joining us for our second week at Lake Garda and we had to drive down to Verona airport to pick him up at the end of the day. Seemed like a good idea to make a day of it so we decided on a visit to Sirmione.
Its a small peninsula at the southern end of the lake with beaches and a castle. It’s one of the best known sites on the lake and we were keen to see it.
Rather than take on the traffic and the car parking at Sirmione we decided on another boat trip so parked up in the large town of Desenzano del Garda and took the short ferry across the water to Sirmione. The lake is much wider here than in the north and has even more of the feeling of an inland sea.
Approaching the harbour at Sirmione.
And our first view of the superb looking Castello Scaligero.
Its built out into the lake itself which forms its protective moat.
Surrounded by pretty houses and the (almost) traffic free town.
Entrance gateway.
It looks like a castle you’d draw as a kid. Only problem was it closes one day a week and of course it was the day we were there. Whilst I was very keen to look around it did mean we’d have more time to explore the rest of the town.
Sirmione is very well known, probably the most well known town on the lake so it was very crowded, probably the most crowded place we visited. It was also the hottest place we visited so a pre-lunch swim was very much in order. This is the Spiaggia del Prete just round the corner from the castle.
We found a sliver of shade to get changed in and took to the cooling waters
After which it was time for lunch. We found a fabulous little Osteria with superb food and this table under the canopy surrounded by flowers and vines.
Post lunch we took a wander round the town’s gardens and churches.
And its smart streets. Undeniably pretty but very crowded and hot.
Time for more swimming so we headed out past the Spiaggia Lido delle Bionde looking for some shade.
We eventually found another sliver of shade under the cliffs at the Spiaggia Libera Sirmione.
Well, it was one of the best swimming spots of the whole trip.
There is a wide expanse of flat rock cut with deep channels before it drops off depply into the lake about 100 yards from the cliffs. You could wade and swim through the deep channels and open lake or just sit on the rocks and float in the cooling water.
We sat here and played in the water for most of the afternoon and as the rocks are expansive and stretch right along the cliffs it doesn’t feel especially crowded.
Its a really unusual spot, I’ve never swum anywhere quite like it and the photos don’t really do it full justice. It became one of the highlights of the holiday.
As you can tell from my happy smile, I was in my element. There is a very impressive Roma Villa just above the cliffs that must give fabulous views over the beaches and the lake but again it was closed for the day and likely too hot to enjoy it.
We could have stayed longer but felt viewing the scene from a bar with a cold drink was in order.
Happy Funsters.
Time to head back to town and think about catching the ferry back and collecting the Prof. The Funsters went for a bit of clothes shopping while I sat in the shade watching the world go by at the Spiaggia Grifone.
Another walk past the castle on our way to the harbour.
The sun lighting up the castle to even better effect in the late afternoon.
Many reasons to come back and visit again, hopefully when its cooler and less crowded.
Onwards to pick up the Prof to share our second week with us.
Time for another ferry trip along the lake, this time to the pretty town of Malcesine on the eastern shore.
Another chance for a couple of scenic ferry boat trips along the lake. Much better than the short drive and endless efforts to find parking spaces.
Its a relaxing way to travel especially with such stupendous views.
Stopping off at Limone on the way.
Before crossing the lake and over to Malcesine.
Looking back towards Limone.
Malcesine and its castle comes into view.
Harbour, castle and mountains.
We took a wander around the narrow streets before taking another look around the castle, the Castello Scaligero di Malcesine to give its full name.
Its well worth the reasonable fee they charge as its interesting, pretty much all accessible and with fabulous views.
TJF trying to take a photo through one of the narrow windows in the very thick walls.
Always taken by the views over the red clay tile roofs of these Italian towns.
The bell at the top of the tower. This time we missed the loud tolls that almost caused me to drop my phone off the top the last time we were here!
Views south over the lake.
And north along the eastern shore.
Funsters enjoying the sunshine.
The castle also had some fascinating artwork on display, several of which were created from old metal, spare car parts etc although it seems I didn’t take any photos.
The castle tower from below.
One of the very narrow cobbled streets in the charming old town.
We headed down to the waterfront for a lunch in a restaurant we’d eaten in last time (and very fine it was too)
Stunning gardens down by the waters edge.
As the heat of the afternoon began to rise it was time for a short walk to one of the nearby beaches for a swim.
Its the issue with Malcesine that it faces west and gets the full blast of the hot afternoon sun and there is little shade. Limone on the opposite shore is much cooler in the afternoon facing east and away from the sun as it dips behind the mountains.
Its still a nice, if very hot beach with great views of the castle.
And just sitting in the water helps keep you cool.
Refreshed, we took another wander through the streets and around the harbour.
A fine setting of boats, colourful houses all backed by Monte Baldo’s dramatic crest.
Time for another cold drink in one of the pleasant squares in the old town.
Before catching the ferry back to Torbole. This time we had the pleasure of the old paddle steamer which is much more interesting way to travel.
With the added bonus of seats at the front of the boat.
We’d taken the bikes with us, as you may know from our ride around the Bois de Boulogne in Paris. Whilst in Lake Garda we’d used them primarily to do the shopping to avoid having to take the van. It was a lovely ride along a cycle path by the river but we fancied something a little more interesting.
The Sentier di Ponale is an old roadway carved into the sheer rockface that towers over the NW corner of the Lake. Its really well known and sounded like an ideal outing.
If you zoom the above photo you can see a line running diagonally up and across the rock-face. Thats the route.
We were up and away by 8am as we wanted to up and back down before the heat became too much. Also at this time it was pretty much deserted. At the height of the day its packed with walkers and cyclists.
As you can see from the photos its spectacular and the views are breathtaking and you need a head for heights to look down over the edge and to the water.
It carves its way across the rock and through several tunnels. Even though its well graded it’s still steep enough to make it hard work.
Superlative views over the north end of the lake, Monte Brione in the foreground.
Looking back along the climb up.
South across the lake to Monte Baldo.
The route splits as it enters the gorge that ultimately leads to Lago di Ledro. We carried on another mile or so looking for a breakfast spot, passing this rather fine overlook.
You can see the route turing around onto the cliffs here.
Apricot croissants and a cuppa with a view.
A chance to watch the cyclists struggling up the remaining steep climb to the perched village of Pregasina.
Lake and mountains.
The amazing spires of rock that tower over the lake.
After a long rest in the sun it was time to head down to meet TJF for a swim at our favourite spot.
We took the paths that go outside the tunnels. They are for walkers so you have to push the bikes.
But its worth it for these sensational and precipitous views.
Its a unique route for a bike ride.
In places you feel you could just jump the wall and drop straight into the water below.
Riva del Garda comes into view.
I always look much happier when someone else takes a picture of me.
The track is rough and gravelly so you have to take a bit of care on the way down but other than that its an easy ride.
Riva and its surrounding mountains.
And to finish off we met TJF for the promised swim to cool off after all that hard work.
We enjoyed our day out in Malcesine on the shores of Lake Garda on our previous trip and the ferry takes you past the town of Limone. It looked a rather nice place so we took advantage of the well run and – considering this is a tourist hot-spot – relatively cheap lake ferry service.
Much like our trips to Lago di Ledro and Lago di Tenno we visited Limone twice so this post contains a mix of photos from both trips.
Its a great day out that kicks off with a nice morning walk along the sea lake-front to Torbole. I can’t help always referring to it as a sea-front such is the size of the lake and the large waves that frequent the shore especially in the afternoon.
Looking south along the lake towards Limone.
Depending on the size of boat that happens to be servicing the route on any given day/time, you either get a largish ferry, capable of transporting cars and with air-conditioned indoor seating, or a small crowded boat, standing room only.
You can normally snag a viewing spot somewhere and its a superb trip across the lake.
Limone comes into view.
Closer.
And just about to arrive.
One of those larger ferries.
Its a picture-postcard-perfect town that takes its name from the Lemon groves on the hillsides. Lemons dominate the shops with Lemon coloured, flavoured and scented products to the fore.
As you can imagine such a pretty spot does attract hordes of tourists (including us of course) but with a little effort there are quiet spots to enjoy.
A look along the many waterfront restaurants.
We had a routine for the visits (as far as you can have a routine when visiting somewhere twice).
After a wander along the waterfront you realise its hot, very hot, and you need to cool down. So we headed to the large public beach and took a swim. Crowded, and on our first visit some big waves but always refreshing
A wander back along the waterfront to look for a lunchtime meal.
Happy families – well the female half anyway.
Then grab an ice cream and eat it down by the harbour.
Wonderful views with the backdrop of the towering mountains.
This side of the lake is very much cliffs tumbling straight down into the lake.
Quite impressive that they manage to create these small towns and Lemon industry with such limited space!
Looking across the harbour to Monte Baldo.
After an ice cream its time to relax. A wander through the streets.
With fine views over the clay-tile roof tops and the lake.
For an afternoon swim.
I’d spotted on the map there was another public beach just north of the town. There were tiny pockets of beach between concrete jetties but it was very quiet, just a handful of people. The water was crystal clear and perfect for either swimming or just chilling on the rocks in the water.
The views across to Monte Baldo were also magnificent.
The Prof enjoys a swim.
A view across the small pocket beaches.
The views across the lake to the narrow crest of Monte Baldo were just magnificent.
It became another favourite spot and we spent a good couple of hours just lazing about here both times we visted Limone.
All that swimming is thirsty work so time to repair to a convivial bar for an afternoon drink.
We stopped at this bar with its fine waterfront tables a few times.
As the sun dips behind the mountains late in the day its a less hot and sweaty walk along the waterfront.
Yet another in the now famed series “Small Person or Big Chair?”
Most of the day trippers have departed by this time so its a much quieter experience and we enjoyed more sitting on the rocks taking in the awesome views
TJF looking relaxed.
More fine views across the lake.
A panorama taking in both sides of the lake and the town & beach
Time to wander back into to town to catch the ferry back to Torbole.
While we waited, time for a drink of local fresh squeezed Lemon Juice. Very sharp but very refreshing.
The Moon rises over Monte Baldo as a ferry plies its course.
And the delight of an early evening boat trip on the Lake.
Looking south along the lake.
Heading north towards Riva and Torbole, Monte Brione behind our campsite visible at the head of the lake.
The mountains on the western shore look particularly dramatic in the evening .
Monte Brione.
The sun sets behind the mountains.
Torbole comes into view.
Just leaving a nice evening stroll back along the lake-front to the campsite. A fine couple of days out.
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