Archive for June 2018
We had a pretty successful wild camp trip last summer with many of the kids and wanted to repeat this year. Unfortunately Mark and his gang couldn’t make it and the Hard Man’s youngest couldn’t be persuaded so it was a more exclusive group this year. I pored over maps and decided that a camp by the wild and rocky Llyn y Gadair under Cadair Idris would be a fine spot so we agreed to meet in Dolgellau for lunch prior to setting off. The forecast wasn’t great but it did say it might stop raining after lunch and Sunday might be ok so we decided to go for it.
We had to start further away than we planned as there is no overnight parking rate at the main car park (why don’t they offer this for backpackers!). We drove down the road to the free car park at Cregennen Lakes, in the end not a bad plan as it’s a fine spot in its own right and the walk back to the climb up to the mountain was rather nice.
The lakes are dominated by pronounced nose of Pared y Cefn Hir.
Blue skies seemed to be approaching from the west
The walk around the lakes and over to the valley that marked our ascent was exceedingly fine
We had some sunshine and smatterings of blue sky and for a while even the summit of Cadair Idris came out of the clouds. It was however a fleeting appearance and was soon enveloped again never to re-appear, at least for this weekend
After a short road walk we started the climb
Steep at first but then easing into a nice day easy angled approach to our target
As we climbed pretty well all the nearby summits became smothered in dark clouds but there was bright light and sunshine on the lower slopes
We reached our target, the dramatic corrie that holds Llyn y Gadair. I’ve climbed Cadair Idris many times but always from the south so while I’d seen this place from above I’ve never visited up close and personal
It’s a rocky place and flat spots are very hard to come by. After a little searching around we settled on a spot between the main lake and a smaller sibling. A bit rocky but it did the job and the setting was magnificent
Unlike our last group camp it was chilly and windy so the midges didn’t bother us
We made the place our home and cooked tea including a pudding of Guinness flavoured chocolate cake brought up from the cafe.
Appetites sated we set off on one of the joys of a wild camp, a gentle stroll around the surroundings
In this case a circuit of the lake and the small knolls and outcrops that surround it
There wasn’t a sunset as such but there were some interesting light effects and we had a great evening poking about the area, chatting and looking for other potential spots to camp
We kept hoping that the summit would make an appearance but it never did.
Still, our wild site and the setting were hard to beat. A real big mountain feel
We returned to camp for another round of brews before deciding it was too cold to sit outside and turned in for nights sleep, hoping for some clearer weather the next day
Sadly, that was as good as it got. We were in the cloud when I woke up and while we eating breakfast the light drizzle increased in intensity and set in for the rest of the day. Despite the forecast stating “mainly dry” or words to that effect, the rain was relentless. We took a slightly longer route back and whilst we had the wind behind us and then walked through the trees it wasn’t too bad. When we emerged from the trees and walked into the wind and rain for the last hour back to the car it was utterly miserable and we were soaked through when we reached the car.
Didn’t make much of a dent in the enjoyment of a good trip though, slight disappointment that in the midst of what’s turning into a pretty sunny summer we picked the only wet weekend for a trip out
Only one way to finish off. A return to the superb cafe in Dolgellau, TH Roberts, that we’d started out from. An exceptional range of home-baked cakes and meals, exceptional value and all served with a smile. Well worth seeking out when you are in the area
I’ve been trying to make more effort to get out and camp this year. This was the third outing for me with another one to come in the next post
After my Arans trip I headed back to Shropshire for a meet up with THO ready for a walk the next day. Quite by chance we found the Brow Farm campsite near Ratlinghope. A real find, pretty basic but a wonderful open field and relaxed atmosphere. The D of E groups were a little noisy after hours but no harm done and a site I’d love to go back to. Especially with the excellent Bridges Inn just down the road
We had a fine meal and a few beers over a catch up in the sunshine. I’d been looking forward to a couple of cold ones throughout my hot walk in the Arans
We met more friends for breakfast back at the Bridges Inn on Sunday and set out to repeat a walk we’d done on a very dark, very humid and very wet day in August a few years ago.
It was pretty hot this time but thunder clouds were replaced with abundant blue skies and no army of flies that plagued us on the previous attempt
Our route took us up onto Linley Hill
With great views across to the south end of the Stiperstones ridge
Along through Nipstone Woods where we found this line of sheep sheltering from the heat of the midday sun
I really like this grassy meadow just before the main ridge. The grass has always been long when I’ve walked through and it waves in the breeze in a mesmerising way
The main ridge seems completely out of character for the rest of the rolling green fields and heather moorlands that characterise the rest of the Shire
It bristles with rocky outcrops and tors, most of which require a little scrambling and a head for heights to reach
The Trig Point is perched on top of Manstone Rock and further along is the Devils Chair, both of which providing some entertaining rock scrambles
A well earned snack break between the two
THO showing off his rock skills on the Devils Chair ridge
I’ve read that these are the hardest English summits and whilst it takes only mild scrambling to reach the top, I can’t think of another summit in England where the easiest route is harder than these. Possibly Parkhouse Hill in the Peak now its open to the public
We did have a plan for a mid-walk beer but in the heat we couldn’t be bothered to walk down to the village and back up again (when there was a pub conveniently placed at the end of the walk!)
Instead we took a walk over the un-named hill to the east and very fine it was too
The views across the northern half of the Shire were mighty fine, all rolling green fields and small hills, some wooded, some grassy
Earls Hill in the distance really caught the eye and more ideas for further exploration of this fine county were planned
A walk along the road (and through a farm yard with the most extraordinary collection of clutter that included a tank!) brought us back to the cars, a cold drink and to head back home after a long, varied and very fine weekend of walking. This one was around 11 miles
I had a Sunday walk planned with a few friends in Shropshire and with a decent forecast thought I could make a proper weekend of things with a one night wild camp and walk in the Arans. It was pretty gloomy when I parked up with little sign of the promised evening sunshine.
It was also warm, humid and airless and a very, steep climb into Cwm Cywarch. I was dripping sweat all the way up and bothered by flies and midges whenever I stopped. I feared the lack of wind would continue and I’d be sharing my planned site with tiny unwanted friends. I was beginning to regret the decision to head out and I wasn’t in high spirits.
All that changed as I reached the broad col below Glasgwm. The sun was emerging from below the mask of heavy cloud and throwing some promising sunlight onto the surrounding hills. Even better there was a breeze to blow the flies away and cool me down
Within minutes there was more abundant sunshine. My mood was lifted immeasurably
I was heading for the summit of Glasgwm to camp. The climb up to the top is a steep one and on the way up I’d been dreading it. Amazing how sunshine improves your mood and your energy. I fair romped up the steep slopes
The views just got better and better as I climbed, keeping ahead of the setting sun so it was still out as I reached the summit
On the top it was just stunning. The summit was swept with swirling mists and low angle sunlight
The light was fading fast so I had to concentrate as much on setting up camp as admiring the views (forgetting that even once the sun has gone down, it doesn’t get really dark at this time of year)
I’d targeted the summit as a good place to camp on a previous visit. Its broad and largely grassy with numerous spots to throw up a tent (although the grass and turf is only a couple of inches thick before hitting rock)
The small Llyn y Fign provides a useful water source although has no outflow worthy of the name so needs to be boiled or filtered to be safe
I pitched just below the summit cairn. There is no better feeling than a summit camp especially at sunset
I made a brew and watched the sun sink and bathe the summit in glory
It took me a while to set up camp while admiring the views
I had a very refreshing wash in the lake before I turned in. The views across the lake were amazing with a deep pink sky and thin mist over the water. Alas I hadn’t taken either my phone or my camera so the views went unrecorded other than in my memory.
It was pushing 11pm and quite chilly so just lay inside the tent watching the sky darken
The sense of peace when wild camping is quite hard to explain and I drifted off to sleep in happy mood
The fickleness of the weather brought me back to reality with overnight rain and unzipping the tent to realise I was in the cloud
Still I had my feast of Bacon and Eggs to cheer me up and it was still a fine if rather blank spot in the cloud
As morning progressed it kept threatening to clear and then mist up again but after an amble about the summit area looking for other possible pitches for future visits it did clear
The photo below was taken from the summit cairn at 772m and shows the green and expansive summit plateau. Sadly being more focused on views than where I was putting the tent meant it wasn’t quite as flat as it appears!
I packed up and headed off for a stroll around the Arans
It was another warm and muggy day but there was a breeze to keep me cool and the day became sunnier as the morning ticked over into afternoon
As always I rejected the main path for an off piste route to the top of Gwaun y LLwyni. It’s a very rough walk and a short steep grassy climb but worth the effort as the views across the deep Hengwm Valley and Cwm Cywarch are immense.
A quiet grassy path leads along a broad ridge and then along the edge to Drws Bach
On Drws Bach I stopped for lunch and the sun came out in force
The views across to the main Arans ridge were superb and I felt I had to make the effort to make the summit. I hid the pack and went briskly two the summit unencumbered.
I have a fondness for the Arans as they have a proper, rocky big mountain feel without being difficult or busy. I only saw a handful of people on this day. Looking north to Arenig Fawr
West to Cadair Idris
North along the ridge to Bala and its lake
And east over Craiglyn Dyfi
Selfie to prove I didn’t steal the shots from the Interweb
I headed down in the best weather of the day as blue skies took centre stage
Hengwm valley
Gwaun y LLwyni & Drws Bach
Looking back up Hengwm
And full circle to my route of ascent the previous evening
A cracking little over-nighter and reward for taking a chance on the weather. One of the best sunsets of I’ve seen in the mountains for a while. Time to head off to meet up with good friends for the second half of my weekend
A short post from a week or so back onto one of my nearest and dearest strolls in my local Black Mountains
It was warm and humid and I figured another early start and breakfast on the hill might beat the heat of the day
Wrong! Even at 9am it was sweltering hot on the steep climb up onto the ridge
It’s a fine ridge however and worth the sweaty effort
I walked briskly along the ridge hoping for a breath of wind to keep cool and have breakfast alone (without the company of insects)
I passed the summit pillar in totally calm conditions but when I reached the grassy spot where I’d camped with TJS last year the was a gentle breeze and I set up my kitchen
Bacon and Egg butty on the mountain
I took in the circuit around the Olchon Valley but declined the out and back to Hay Bluff this time. Wild ponies kept me company from time to time
A steep descent into the valley, brought a lighter tone to the gloomy skies
And the short steep climb back to the car
8 mile round trip and back in time for a short rest before joining the Funsters at Bredwardine for a cooling dip in the Wye
My good friend the Hard Man and his two kids came to pay us a visit over the recent BH weekend. They were spending the week in South Wales doing touristy stuff and seeing relatives and took a chance to come see us and try to convince me to go walking in the rain. The Hard Man seems to have taken over the mantle of blind weather optimism from my friend EWO and always sees good weather prospects in the worst of forecasts. On this occasion we were faced with a forecast of heavy thundery showers, not exactly ideal weather to be sitting in a small tent. He even tried to convince that the tent poles would act as some sort of Faraday Cage if we got struck. Deluded!
Anyway as the weekend progressed the forecast improved and seemed to indicate we might get a dry evening on the Sunday and a dry albeit cloudy Monday. Against my better judgement we decided go for it. Packing up on Sunday morning it seemed like a very bad idea. We had the lot. Torrential rain, thunder, lightning, hail. We set off in an almighty downpour that had us dodging several pretty serious floods. Most of us looked out of the window with severe trepidation. The Hard Man simply looked happy that he’d at least got us in the car. We shopped like aristocrats in Waitrose and it had stopped raining by the time we were done. Shortly afterwards the sun came out. It didn’t rain again for the rest of the weekend.
Before the backpacking festivities we took a short stroll to Henrhyd Falls. I’ve never been to these (this corner of South Wales has loads of waterfalls) and very fine they were too.
Like all the very best waterfalls you can walk behind them
It’s a popular spot and there were plenty of people about so we didn’t linger
There were mountains to be climbed and wild campsites to be occupied
Our route was a local classic. A camp by the wonderful Llyn y Fan Fawr and a walk along the edges the next day. The summits looked dark and gloomy as we set off (after a monumental faff by the family Hard Man).
It’s a relatively easy walk up to the tarn now I’ve finally discovered a way through the boggiest bits
As we climbed up the clouds parted and there was sunshine aplenty. It’s a really fine spot for a night in the hills
After a little deliberation we found a great spot by a small beach on the Lake. We set up camp and basked in sunshine. The pointing is showing TJS that the sun was shining as he’d mocked us when we left about how wet we were going to get. I even managed a very quick and very cold swim to wash away the grime of the walk in
The Hard Man returns from a water gathering exercise
The wind had dropped and the water was stunningly calm and mirror-like
The downside of warm weather, no wind and clouds is obvious. Midges! That’s the reason TBF has her hood up by way of protection. They were not even close to the scale and numbers of a Scottish midge attack but there was enough to be irritating while trying to cook
As evening drew in and the temperature dropped they went back to their evil lair for the night and we enjoyed a pleasant late evening stroll to collect some fresh running water to save having to filter the lake water
The moon was dazzlingly bright. Not a bad picture with a handheld zoom
The next morning we were shrouded in cloud when we woke. It was a still a nice peaceful spot so I still got up and cooked my breakfast early and alone before the midges came out. As everyone else stirred and came to life the cloud began to break and we saw the first tentative rays of sunshine (and the first of the midges)
It soon turned into a quite amazing morning with expansive and clear blue skies interspersed with mist. Stunning. Way better than anything forecast had us believing.
Nice that the Hard Man purchased a tent that blends so well into the landscape you can barely see it!
We set off for a walk and the views were amazing. It’s rare to walk in the UK without so much as a breath of wind and see such a mirror like calm on a lake surface
It was quite mesmerizing. Our pitch is at the far end of the lake towards the right
As we crested the top there was a welcome puff of breeze – it was exceptionally hot for May. The fickleness of British weather never fails to amaze me. We camped by the lake a few years back in July and it was too cold to eat outside the tent!
Whilst we weren’t above the cloud there was a bank of it seemingly all around that gave a similar vibe
The highest point of the Black Mountain, Fan Brycheiniog
It’s a classic walk and the first time for the Hard Man for many a year (he spent a good part of his youth in these parts)
Heading off for Bannau Sir Gaer
We hoped to have a first lunch somewhere on the summit but as always seems to be the case it was overrun with flies despite the wind which seemed to be blowing them in. The walk along the edges, normally so wonderful was an unpleasant affair as we picked flies from every facial orifice. We did manage to find a windy spot to keep them at bay for a while until it dropped, the midges came out in force and we ran for cover
The walk back to the tents along the base of the cliffs is one of my favourites and in baking sunshine it was a joy
We returned to base camp for more food and to think about packing up. It had been a hot walk and all that I’d been thinking about was a swim.
It was fabulous if very cold but so refreshing after a hot and sweaty hike. Yours truly enjoying the cold clear water
TBF joined in as well
As we packed up the clouds started to bubble and we heard a few rumbles of thunder. Time to get the hell out of there
As we followed the stream back to the car we turned and saw that the clouds had completely enveloped the summits again and all looked very threatening. It appeared we caught the weather window perfectly. The sun shines on the righteous and all that
Luckily the mindless and delusional optimism of the Hard Man had worked wonders and we had a cracking little trip out. Another weekend out planned in a couple of weeks time so more of the same will be in order
Another day in Lakeland but this one without the glorious blue skies of the previous day. Still a fine day though, high cloud, watery sunshine and no sign of rain or mist shrouding the summits. We planned a walk from the door of our hotel in Torver up on to the Coniston Fells. Nice to do a walk without using the car (if you don’t count the 4 hour drive home at the end of the day)
We followed what looked like a little used but rather nice path out over Torver High Common, following Ash Gill Beck (plenty of nice wild camp spots) and then off piste cutting up to the Walna Scar Road. Our first peak of the day, Brown Pike, gave us some fine views of the first part of our route for the day.
I don’t recall ever seeing this small tarn before, perhaps that’s why it’s called Blind Tarn. Perhaps it meant that I’ve never been up Brown Pike before and I had another new summit bagged
Onwards to Dow Crag, another classic Lakeland peak and another of my favourites from my youth
A dark and brooding set of sheer cliffs cradling Goats Water below, the Old Man of Coniston on the other side
The crags and gullies are impressive and I’ve had a few adventures in my youth trying to find a way up some of the ravines in both summer and winter conditions. Most of them ended in scary situations I seem to recall. Probably why I never went up Brown Pike. Probably why I should have done. I also recall a day in wild winter conditions when I was blown clean off my feet and deposited several yards further along the path, the only time I’ve ever been picked up by the wind. Mind you I was a couple of stone lighter in those days. Need more than a gust of wind to do it now! 🙂
The summit of Dow Crag is impressively rocky and it takes a little scrambling to reach its top perched on the edge of the crags. TBF enlivened proceedings by stumbling over her feet and poles – twice just to set me on edge again
A fine spot for lunch, so good that several annoying black flies came to join us at our table
There was much walking to do so we were off again to climb the Old Man. Fine views back across the cliffs of Dow Crag as we went
Ask we approached the top the sun came out and we were treated to some fine views along our next ridge and the lakes of Levers Water and Low Water and across to Wetherlam
We didn’t linger long as it’s a popular and busy summit but the views from its relatively isolated position are superb
What’s also superb is the long ridge that runs out to Swirl How. An undulating passage the offers a grand high level stroll with not much effort
Views over Great Carrs to our route in Langdale the previous day and the Scafell range
The descent down Prison Band to Swirl Hawse is a steep and rocky one and needs a little care in places to avoid a tumble and places where certain hikers stopped in full view of the col to have a pee
Levers Water is, I assume, an artificial creation of the copper mining industry but still a grand spot for a rest and a brew (if you haven’t run out of gas of course)
Said copper mines are extensive and deep and I’ve read reports that the area around is undercut with monstrous caverns ready to collapse at any time. I never linger long by the massive holes in the landscape
We were still facing a lengthy walk home but the old mine tracks make for a steady and easy gradient to eat up the miles while the mountains receded behind us
I took this photo as it seems to indicate mining is still very much active here. I’m sure this is a recent change as I don’t recall seeing these new-looking scars on previous visits. It seems to me to be something of a contradiction to have working heavy industry scarring the landscape inside a National Park
Back to finer views as the day started to draw too a close. This fine rocky peak above the lush and verdant farm-land caught my eye
We still had a few miles over the moorland below the Walna Scar Road to cover to reach Torver
It was a lovely peaceful stroll along some paths that I suspect see’s few visitors. The late afternoon brightened by flowering gorse, always a pleasure to see and smell
A last lingering look back to the Old Man and Dow Crag before dropped in Torver to finish off a long and highly rewarding walk
Another 14 miles and 4,500 feet of ascent to add to the rest of the weekend
An amazing weekend of long walks numerous summits, great weather, nice pubs and excellent food. Now That’s What I Call a Birthday Weekend
surfnslide 