After our visit to the museum and lunch back at our home town we needed to head out to collect the Prof from the airport. We thought we’d make a trip of it and headed to one of the beach resorts on the east coast of the island.
We decided on La Garita, a small resort with a black sand beach. Rather than park up in town we headed for a car park near a feature called La Bufadero just along the coast.
And what a wonderful little spot it was!
There is a large deep hole in the lava rocks where the sea floods in through a cave entrance lower down and then swells up to the top before plunging back down in a cascade of water.
There is also a much smaller blow-hole that generates a cloud of spray and creates a beautiful rainbow effect as it catches the sun. Its mesmeric to watch it but rather than pictures the video below gives a much better impression.
We watched for ages and I could have stayed and watched it for hours. There was even one mad bloke who was walking along the narrow edge on the seaward side as the waves crashed in. I would have though his chances of surviving falling into the water would have been pretty slim.
The coastal walk along the cliffs was just as fine. I really liked this sculpture that overlooked the beach.
We took a wander across the black sands as the sun began go down. Apart from one rather ugly grey block of flats it was a charming little place.
Another example that with a bit of research and and a willingness to explore you can find some fabulous lesser known spots wherever you travel.
We wandered back along the seafront and due to the marvel of the Flightradar App, were able to track and then watch the Prof’s plane fly along the coast before turning to land at the airport a few miles down the coast.
We finished off our walk and then collected him to join us for the second week of our holiday and it was great to have the whole family all together again.
We enjoyed our visit so much, we came back later in the week for another look at La Bufadero, a walk across the beach and a fine lunch in an excellent restaurant overlooking the bay.
A great find and we enjoyed a paddle in the waters – the sea looked rather too rough with a powerful undertow for swimming.
An aimless and slow wander across the waterfront was more than enough compensation (and we had a swim planned for later – more on that in a future post).
The sculpture and La Garita beach.
A decent shot of one of the many crabs clinging to rocks near La Bufadero.
Quite amazing how they all managed to cling on in the powerful flood of the sea as it rushed in and out.
Fascinating spot that became yet another favoured place on our travels.
We have another prospective Prof in the family with TJF off to Uni in September to study Archeology. She found out that there is a very well renowned museum devoted to the original people who settled the Canary Islands.
Its called the Cueva Pintada or the Painted Cave Museum. Its the remains of one of their original settlements. Over the years it was buried under soil as the islands became widely inhabited and cultivated.
A farmer, turning over the soil for his banana plantation discovered the first remains and since then more and more of the settlement has been uncovered. The museum is now covered over to protect it and the museum devoted to it is exceptionally well presented and staffed.
You can see the remains of their native dwellings, houses and where they prepared food, stored water etc.
Housed in this room is the original cave with very delicate paintings still visible. Its heavily protected and you can’t take photos as they are so fragile but it was a wonderful experience to see evidence of the original, and in a wider historical context, largely forgotten, people of the islands.
It reminded me very much of the Roman settlement discovered when excavating the Acropolis Museum in Athens, preserved and accessible to view in a very similar way.
Despite the fact its very well advertised and and a very enjoyable visit, there were only a handful of people there.
This is a reconstruction of one of their houses and what they think it may have looked like.
Even now very little is really known about these original people and their story is a rather sad one.
Its thought they originally arrived from Africa around 1000 years ago although no-one knows for sure. They settled in small groups across Gran Canaria, managing to fashion a pretty well developed society in what is a pretty hostile environment for those times.
And then the Spanish arrived. The islanders welcomed them with open arms but they were treated as savages who needed to be civilised or put another way converted to Christianity. The islanders had their own beliefs and religion and fought against the Spaniards but were no match against the invaders.
Villages were destroyed, tribal leaders were either killed or imprisoned, families set apart. The islanders had little choice but to succomb to their new rulers. Many were sent back to Spain never to return, women were forced to marry their conquerors. Most heartbreakingly of all (to my mind anyway) was their places of worship were systematically built over with new Christian churches. To all extents this was the genocide of an entire culture. Some were allowed to stay and to this day some of the residents of Gran Canaria still carry the genetic traces of their ancestors.
Until I visited the museum I had no real clear idea or concept of these original settlers (other than an awareness that were some). At least now the museum does a fine job of keeping this culture alive.
After a very enjoyable couple of hours looking around we had a bit of time before our bus back to the resort.
We decided to look around the small old town of Galdar. The main town is a bit of an untidy industrial sprawl, but the old town is gorgeous, if quite small.
A fine old church and and leafy square are the main focus.
Its surrounded by a number of streets with more fine old buildings.
Inside the church was also lovely.
Its rather good that our new Prof-in-waiting is opening our eyes to something more than just beaches, sightseeing and mountains on our family holidays.
After a few days of easy wandering and swimming it was time for more strenuous activity and a walk in the high mountains.
We were up early and on the road just after 8am in a effort to be back in time for sunset beers by the pools.
Before we parked up, a brief stop at the Delgollada de Becerra with a marvellous early mornming view out over the gorges towards Tenerife and El Teide in the distance. The ridge in the middle ground of the photo is one we’d explore later in the trip.
It was decidedly chilly when we set off. You tend to forget that up at 1600m in December, even here, the temperatures can but quite nippy. We saw frost on the ground and one section of ice as we walked.
Our first port of call was Pico de las Nieves, highest point on the island.
Although you have to be a rock athlete to make the very highest point!
Its a fine viewpoint though and it was a truly superb day of crystal clear blue skies and warm sunshine.
A nice happy couple selfie, even I managed a smile!
I’d chosen a route that I hoped would mix up up some nice woodland sections with more open stretches.
It turned out to be an excellent choice governed and planned with the rather good and pretty accurate Discovery Walking Guide Map.
Panorama looking to the south of the island.
And back to the top of Pico de las Nieves and its military radar dome.
We emerged from the forests onto a wonderful open section of broad rocky ridge. We were heading for summit to the right of centre in the above photo hoping it would make a good lunch stop.
The walking here was just wonderful and despite looking somewhat impregnable the rocky top had a well marked trail.
So we picked our spot on the top and settled down for a long and leisurely picnic. What a place for lunch looking out over the famous Roque Nublo to Tenerife.
Panorama looking out north and west.
TBF enjoying her lunch.
Looking back along the rocky crest.
Panorama looking north and east back to Pico de las Nieves.
A view towards Tamadaba where we’d picnicked a couple of days earlier
And another summit view of our lunch spot.
Slopey, unsmiling selfie.
Time to move and complete our circuit. The summit is El Montanon, I think.
TBF and Pico de las Nieves
It was quite a descent down to the road near Roque Nublo.
We had an idea to walk out to it again, but having visited before and the fact its very popular and busy told us a longer lunch stop was a better use of our time.
It was absolute chaos at the roadhead, cars parked everywhere and long queues trying to get through.
We didn’t linger and insread took a short out and back to another dizzying viewpoint overlooking one the islands many spectacular gorges.
No-one else seemed to bother so we had it to ourselves. It woukd have made another fine picnic site.
The final stretch took us down and back up from one of the islands many small reservoirs, Presa de Las Hornos. I say reservoir, but it was nothing more than a rather murky little green stagnant pool, although the dam was impressive.
A short steep climb had us back at our start point, the huge, expnsive and very well provisioned picnic site at Llanos de la Pez. Time to head home for those sunset beers. We stopped off for more views of the island. This one from Delgollada de las Palomas.
And again from the Caldera de Galdar.
And a final view over to Las Palmas. The sunset beers were wonderful by the way. Perfect finish to a superb days walking. Gran Canaria is just magnificent for hiking and deserves much more exploration than the bare scratching of the surface that we’ve done.
Our favourite spot for a stroll in Puetro de las Nieves are the semi-natural seawater pools of Las Salinas.
The lava flows create natural channels and hollows and with judicious use of concrete have created 3 pools for swimming.
They are wonderfully clear and make a great spot for swimming, especially handy as the coast here is rocky and open to some pretty wild Atlantic breakers.
There are some nice wooden platforms where we spent many happy hours sitting and watching the waves, the sunsets or sometimes just the people.
There are also some of the channels left as nature intended. You be a brave/foolish person to try swimming in these.
Much better to swim in the pools which we did on several occasions – although our preferred spot was in the harbour as they have showers there.
A fine spot just to potter about and sit in the warm sunshine.
Looking back to the pools from the seafront promenade.
Stunning clear water on a calm day.
On other days the waves were absolutely massive, crashing into the shore in a quite amazing fashion.
Sometimes easy to forget the islands are in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean!
The narrow gully just beyond the pools was often the best place to watch waves crash in to the rocks and long the deep channel.
The photos don’t really do justice to the size of the waves and the noise.
Hopefully this little video compilation will do that a little better.
When the waves were crashing in it was a fun time to swim in the pool nearest the open ocean.
Even wth the protective barriers it was pretty difficult to reach the ocean side of the pool. As near as you can get to swimming in the wild ocean while staying safe.
TBF remains on safer ground.
The Prof enjoying a swim.
TBF takes on the relatively calm water of the other pools.
Before tackling the more turbid waters of the ocean side pool.
Not quite as clear water!
Some mad souls were out bodyboarding in the waves. No idea how they get out to the waves unharmed seeing as the shore is mostly large sharp edged boulders.
Late afternoon was our favourite time to spend here.
The setting sun turns the mountains a deep golden colour and contrasts perfectly against the blue sea and sky.
A great time to just wander about on the rocks and watch the waves.
We spent many happy hours just exploring the rockpools and edges – more on the stuff we found in a later post.
Always backed by the dramatic mountains of Tamadaba.
A nice father/daughter picture – from our first evening I think.
One of the quieter evenings (it was normally quite busy as the sun went down)
TBF poses in the evening light.
Calmer waters as the tide goes out.
Sunset’s from here are superb – but more on that in a later post as well. A family shot to finish things off.
I spend alot of my time surfing the web looking for ideas on places to go, walking routes, travel ideas and tips to plan the perfect holiday or day out. (I'm a project manager I like to plan). I thought it was time to share my own experiences and contribute to the vast amounts in information that's already out there.
I'll also add in some gear and tech reviews and when something irks me I may even use this forum to have a rant - I do that pretty well I'm told.There are a few pages at the top that give a bit of background to what I like to get up to and what you can expect to see in my posts. I'm not exactly a creative writer but I hope some people will find my stuff useful or inpsiring or at least enjoy some of my photos.
surfnslide 