After our Black Mountain walk we headed off for a night out in the van. We headed back to one of our new favourite places, Llyn Brianne.
We’d originally hoped we could have a late afternoon swim but it seemed the colder than expected weather would put a stop to that.
We headed back to the lovely little spot at Fannog and were suprised to find it calm and relatively warm.
Time for that swim.
I’ll leave you guess which one of us is skinny dipping!
With it being a Saturday many of the off grid spots we’d earmarked on previous visits were already taken. However, after a bit of a drive we found one I hadn’t come across before. A really lovely and lonely little spot on a mountain road up over 500m. It’s a road from nowhere in particular to the back of beyond so there was barely a car passed by while we were there.
I took a short wander up onto the nearby hill. The van is just visible in the centre of the photo.
There was a reasonable sunset but the terrain, even over the few hundred yards I walked was a reminder of just how rough these mountains can be.
A cosy night in the van and the next morning was warm with some watery sunshine.
We breakfasted outside, pleased that we’d been gifted what was probably the last warm weekend of the year.
We took a drive around and came across this lovely little picnic area overlooking the Berwyn valley.
And a short walk through the woods to the hidden Llyn Berwyn.
A tranquil spot that I’d thought might be a place for a swim but the water looked a little brown and less than inviting.
So we headed back to Fannog where we’d swum the night before.
It’s quite a popular spot in summer and we were surprised to find it deserted on such a lovely day.
We took to the water for another swim.
They were brief swims. In the intervening few weeks after our last visit the rains had added a few inches depth to the water and reduced the temperature markedly. Cold enough to make your – ahem – “bits” ache!
Suitably refreshed we settled down for lunch.
This small rocky peninsula makes a perfect picnic spot
We had thought about moving on from here and taking in a walk on our way back home.
However as the weather was so calm and pleasantly warm and the fact that this might be last time we’d be sitting outside like this for a while, we decided to stay for the rest of the afternoon.
There would be opportunities for sunny walks through the winter (hopefully!) but it could be a long wait for the next warm afternoon to relax in the sun.
We spread lunch out over 2-3 hours and just enjoyed the peace of this stunning corner of Wales.
Neither of us could quite bring ourselves to take another swim though!
Eventually we had to pack up and head home.
Next time we visit will likely be winter and a swim before retreating to the van may not be quite so attractive an option. Not a bad way to bid farewell to warmer activities as winter descends.
Still back in early October on the blog. We were away for a couple of days in the van on the basis of a very promising forecast for some warm sunny weather to finish off the last of summer/autumn.
We were away early with a plan for an al fresco breakfast before heading off for our classic Black Mountain walk. What wasn’t forecast was a roaring gale of a wind blowing up the valley that made it feel decidedly wintry rather than summery. Breakfast inside the van then.
When we set off the signs were promising. Blue sky above and the prospect of the summits clearing from the cloud.
By the time we reached Llyn y Fan Fawr we were immersed in cloud and stayed there all the way to the top of Fan Brycheiniog. There didn’t seem to be any prospect of the cloud clearing but we pressed on.
The wind on the tops was ferocious and we were struggling to stand up, a far cry from what the forecast had said. Then suddenly the clouds parted and the sun started to break through. It revealed Bannau Sir Gaer with a stream of cloud pouring over the edges. It was amazing. I don’t recall ever seeing anything quite like it
Photos don’t really do justice so here is a short video to get the mesmerising effect. You can hear just how windy it was.
Most of mid-Wales appeared to still be covered in a blanket of cloud.
We continued to the summit of Bannau Sir Gaer with the clouds still rolling over our heads and pouring down to the slopes below.
One of the best experiences I have had on a mountain summit for many a while.
Another video of the clouds pouring down to Llyn y Fan Fach.
As we carried on round the edges, the cloud effects began to lessen but as always its a fabulous walk.
Llyn y Fan Fach.
TBF strides out.
There was someone swimming in the lake. It was a very cold day and they weren’t in for long!
The last of the flowing clouds.
We found a sheltered spot above the lake for a long lunch.
As we walked back under the edges, the wind dropped and it was reasonably warm, much more like what the forecast had said.
I really like the grassy paths that traverse back around to Llyn y Fan. Fawr. Another part of what makes, probably, my favourite south Wales walk.
Back to Llyn y Fan Fawr.
We had our swimming stuff with us (based on that forecast) but while it warmed up considerably from the morning, it was still far too chilly for a dip.
We settled for a stroll around the shores of my favourite south Wales lake.
A rather dark and moody shot.
After a very uncertain start it had turned into a memorable day.
Time to head home. But not without a short walk on the way.
It was pretty grim in Glencoe, but as is often the case, much nicer as you start to head away from the Highlands. Like on our first visit, an ideal opportunity to climb Conic Hill. A short day with great views, perfect when you still have a lot of driving to do.
The Campsie Fells from the path up.
And the fabulous views out over the wider southern end of Loch Lomond and its islands.
North towards the Arrochar Alps and Southern Highlands.
It was pretty windy on top and similarly to the last time, quite a number of people out and about considering it was a Monday.
The actual highest point although very few of the walkers seem to realise that and actually visit it.
Looking bck to what the masses seem to think is the top.
Always time to find a sheltered spot for a sit down, lunch and a cuppa.
Before the easy descent down the fine ridge that leads back to the lake shore.
Looking back to the summit.
And out over Inchcailloch Island.
Sunlight over the boats in the bay.
A nice relaxed way to end another superb weekend. Hoping we can keep this going as a regular trip as I don’t get to Scotland as often as I like or used to.
Another very wet, showery day greeted us on Sunday, keen-ness was reduced after a big day on Saturday so there was more sitting around and chatting.
A closer look at Netweather again showed some promise for a better afternoon so we headed out to climb the Pap of Glencoe (or Sgorr na Ciche to give it’s proper name).
I’ve only done the Pap once before as an add-on after finishing the Aonach Eagach so was keen to revisit the summit. Its one of the most prominent features of the highlands among some impressive company.
As we started the climb, what had started as a reasonable spell was turning into something very much better. There was plentiful blue sky and sunshine and though there were dark clouds there didn’t seem to be any imminent threat of rain.
As we climbed the views out over Loch Leven to Garbh Beinn and Ardgour were magnificent.
I had it in my head that the ascent would be a steep, muddy, boggy slog but in fact there is an excellent path that apart from one short steep section is well graded and sweeps up to the col below the Pap in a single sweeping zig zag.
Beinn a Bheithir appears.
And stormy clouds over the mountains south of Glencoe.
We made swift progress up to the col to contemplate the very steep and rocky final climb to the top.
Beinn a Bheithir now fully revealed in all its massive glory.
MM scrambles through the boulder fields.
We reached the summit with perfect timing, into a gloriously clear and and sunny spell. Spectacular views straight down to Loch Leven with the Mamores range spread out behind
Loch Leven panorama.
THO admiring the westwards view.
Considering how wet it had been in the morning we were very lucky that the weather delivered this extended sunny break.
The summit had several groups (its a popular peak) all of whom stayed for an extended stop, as we did, to take in the views..
The Corbett of Garbh Beinn that sits behind the Aonach Eagach and is very much on my to do list.
A very happy summit selfie for a change.
We were up on the top for the best part of an hour, taking in the view, eating lunch and celebrating our good fortune.
The less spiky end of the Aonach Eagach
Sadly all good things must come to an end and it was time to head back down. The changed position of the sun was now illuminating Bidean to much grerater effect.
A Glencoe (and THO) panorama.
A close up of the complex buttresses and ridges of Bidean. Its been too long since I’ve been up there.
I decided to add in another trip around the Glencoe Lochan on my way down (everyone else went straight back). I thought I could pick up the other path that comes down from the top. It took a bit of fence climbing and traversing of awkward felled forest before I found the forest tracks.
Worth it for another set of views of the Pap.
And some nice reflection shots.
I wandered out to the head of the loch as well for some late afternoon views.
Bidean looking large and impressive.
And a final sunlit shot of the Pap. Sometimes you head out in mixed weather and wonder what on earth you were thinking. Sometimes…..
In the lead up to the weekend the Saturday seemed to have the best forecast. We therefore planned a bigger day and primarily for me and UF to bag a missing Munro from the list, Beinn Sgulaird.
We both had unfinished business with this one. We made an attampt many years back and got pretty much all the way to the summit before being forced to retreat by a ferocious wind and a white-out. This was in our poorer days when when we used to camp, in full winter, by the road near Loch Tulla.
Whilst it was dry, there was none of the promised sunny spells the forecast had indicated. It was pretty grey and overcast and all the summits were in the cloud. At least we were entering some pretty wild and lonely landscapes which is always a pleasure.
As befits any Munro there is now a baggers path ascending from Druimvuich along the SW ridge. A few hundred metres up we came across this stone. We christened it the Cock-Stane of the Clan Ure. This being on account of our childish obsession with the Clan MacThomas (UF inherited half of their surname) and one of their scared places is the amusingly named Cock-Stane, a ceremonial stone. Well, we thought it was funny any way.
Onwards and upwards to the un-named Point 488 which had a pretty decent view through Glen Creran to Sgorr a Choise in the centre, our mountain from day one.
Beinn Sgulaird still embedded in cloud.
After a brief stop for food we were onwards and upwards and into that cloud.
The, up till that point, easy to follow path, started to traverse around the next top (point 883) and then just vanished into the bog. No idea how we managed to lose the path on the ridge but after a little bit of steep ground off piste we were back on track. As we found the path the cloud began to lift a little and revealed views over towards Glen Etive.
And some of those coastal views we’d been hoping for.
The cloud descended again while we had lunch on Meall Garbh but as we set off the skies cleared much wider and we were treated to some excellent views, here Ben Starav holds the gaze.
Beinn Sgulaird however, remained stubbornly cloud capped.
Glen Etive and the wild and lonely moorland beneath Beinn Sgulaird.
Beinn Sgulaird is not especially high by Scottish Munro standards but as its sits isolated from other chains and ridges and has a sea level start it feels much more massive. The ridge to the top was excellent albeit we didn’t see much beyond the start from the col.
Glen Creran and Ardgour behind.
On the ridge looking back to Meall Garbh
The empty expanse heading south towards Loch Etive.
Despite our most fervent wishes we reached the summit in cloud and started down as time was pressing on. We descended one of the ridges from the subsidiary top as we’d planned a walk through trip to a second car at Elleric.
The ridge was steep and interesting without being difficult and took us into some wild and untamed country that I doubt sees many walkers. I’ve been up here a couple of times now (last time when we climbed the nearby small peak of An Grianan) and I really like it.
Our happy band take a breather.
We had planned to climb the little peak of Stob Gaibhre for a second lunch but we didn’t have time. We still had a fair way to go and a date with a slap up meal at our favourite local restaurant.
Whilst we had a baggers path on the way up, the way down was much tougher. Very rough going, deep grass, tussocks and no path of any sort. With hindsight we would have been better to just reverse the route we came up.
The Corbett of Fraochaidh dominates the view to the NW.
And of course, Beinn Sgulaird was now out of the cloud!
It was long walk back down Glen Ure to the car at Elleric. The way enlivened by some huge tussocks on an ill-judged attempt to cut a corner that had most of us falling over, but with superb views of An Grianan. Another one ticked off the list but still more than enough Munros left for me to bag.
In my previous post I mentioned that a “mixed” forecast in Scotland can mean either a day better than expected (as it turned out) or very much worse. The next day was the latter. There were some stunning moments of sunshine but they lasted only a few minutes before a very much longer period of torrential rain. Not a day for the mountains.
We sat around the house most of the day, watching the Ryder Cup (the house had a magnificent and massive TV) and eating.
One of the joys of the Internet and technology as an outdoor person is the Netweather Rainfall Radar website. It displays exactly where its raining and its uncannily accurate. Whilst it doesn’t “forecast” where the rain will be, you can view the passage of the rain and predict where its going and more importantly when it might stop. I use it when I’m working from home to plan my daily hour of exercise.
On this day we were able to see that a slightly less wet spell was coming around 3pm so me, MM and THO headed out for a short stroll to the Glencoe Lochan from the house.
We walked up here the previous year and it’s a really nice spot to get some fresh air.
It has fine views to the Pap of Glencoe.
And of Beinn a Bheithir.
And we were treated to one of those gorgeous spells of sunshine.
When the sun is out, it is a really fetching little spot.
As expected the sunshine was very short lived.
And a couple of minutes later it was chucking it down.
MM and THO waiting patiently for me to take photos.
Quickly followed by another sunny spell
Pap of Glencoe getting a dousing.
Meall Mor and Am Meall from our walk the day before.
A drier looking Pap of Glencoe.
We walked back alongside the head of the Loch to the house. Final view of the end of the Aonach Eagach and Pap of Glencoe. A nice little leg stretcher on what was a very wet day!
September brings our regular trip up to Glencoe in Scotland – well if you count 3 successive years as regular. We found another superb house to stay right by the shores of the Loch. However the forecast for our long weekend was at best, mixed.
Our first day was grey and cloudy with a forecast of regular showers and high winds. In Scotland this can mean anything between the odd shower and blue skies, and a day of ceaseless rain.
We decided on a nearby small mountain behind Ballachulish called Sgorr a Choise. I’ve had my eye on it for the past few years as it looks like an interesting ridge from the map. Its only just over 2,000 feet and therefore only a Graham so I don’t think it sees many visitors, especially as its surrounded by other bigger and well known mountains. We started out from Ballachulish where you get an excellent first hand view and where it looks much loftier than its height would suggest.
The valley of Gleann an Fhioth is a fine one and we were in good spirits as we set off.
Views back towards Loch Leven.
There was a path marked on the map the crossed the River Laroch and headed up to the col below the summit. An excellent plan with just two flaws. There was no bridge over the river, which was in spate, and, there was no path. We headed up the valley thinking by the time we’d found a crossing point it would too far to walk back. However a little bit of exploration and we found an easy spot to cross. We celebrated our good fortune with an early food stop.
Sgorr a Choise still with a cap of cloud.
We bashed up through deep grass, bog and heather to the col, from where the ridge presented itself and looked very fine indeed.
And very fine it was. A mix of short steep sections and more level stretches with fine views even on such a gloomy day.
UF and THO enjoying the route.
MM racing off into the distance as he always does.
Looking back down our ascent ridge.
MM attains the summit, Aonach Eagach in the background.
The cloud had been lifting as we climbed and it was turning into a pretty decent day. Lunch on a fine summit is always a pleasure.
Looking back down to Ballachulish and Loch Leven.
It was time to move and complete our circuit.
With the weather improving it seemed to early too be heading down so me and MM decided to take on an extra peak of Meall Mor, seen in the photo above.
It was a relentless steep grassy climb, compensated by excellent views back to Sgorr a Choise.
It was a fine little summit and another Marilyn ticked off my list. Great views into Glencoe.
MM and views back towards the Sound of Mull
Pap of Glencoe and the Mamores.
And a zoom shot of the Aonach Eagach in all its spiky glory.
Time to head down and join our other three companions who wanted no part of extra hills. It was their loss.
It was pretty blustery up top but I quite like a day of scudding winds and clouds when the rain stays away (we’d only had one shower all day).
Our route down was over this small hill of Am Meall. We even had some small patches of sunshine now.
It was actually a fine little viewpoint, especially of the far end of the Aonach Eagach and Pap of Glencoe.
We’d hoped the break in the forest that ran down to Ballachulish would make for a reasonable descent route and in fact there was a decent path all the way down. Final view of Sgorr a Choise.
And great views along Loch Leven and out to Ardgour.
The quarry behind Ballachulish with a lake that looked great for a swim in more pleasant weather.
Turned out to be a really superb day on some wild and lonely mountains, finished off with a fine meal and a few beers in the Clachaig.
The Prof has started his second year at Liverpool University for his PhD and was a bit fed up with his box studio room and wanted something a little more roomy. He was able to secure a very nice flat in Waterloo a few miles north of the city but as it was unfurnished he needed some help.
Cue the wider family clans and friends all offering various tables/chairs/sofas and a weekend in Liverpool to help him get set up and settled in.
Step 1 was to collect a Sofa and chair from my good mate UF in Manchester (items previously owned by another good mate, ED in Silverdale, so good to see this treasures passed down the generations). The Camper Van with its adjustable seats comes in very handy at times like this. Keen not to waste the weekend we managed to find time for a short walk on Werneth Low, just around the corner from chez-UF.
It has some great views across Manchester and out to the Dark Peak moors. The big kid in me was especially excited to see an Airbus A380 fly over while we walked.
The War Memorial and stormy clouds behind.
We had things to do so it was a short walk but we found time for a lunchtime pint and steak sandwich before heading back to Liverpool.
We managed to unload and carry the stuff upstairs with ease and had enough time to fit in another walk. We took the train a couple of stops up the line to Hightown (the joy of city life with a decent public transport system) where took a stroll along the coast and back to the flat.
It had turned into a gorgeous sunny afternoon and we were immediately jealous that the Prof has all this right on his doorstep.
The coastal path follows the dunes before turning into an easy tarmac path.
Superb views out across the Mersey estuary towards the Wirral and north Wales.
At Brighton le Sands you can continue the walk along the sands.
The beach is well-known for the Anthony Gormley Sculptures “Another Place”. You can read about it here (Wikipedia inaccuracies notwithstanding). Most fascinating to me was that the sculptures are based on actual body-cast of Gormley himself.
I also rather liked the cranes that tower over the southern end of the beach.
Sculpture close up.
Makes for a fine subject as the sun sets.
Just behind the beach is the Marine Lake, complete with sailing club. It’s much bigger than I thought it looked on the map and its really rather nice. The Prof’s flat is just near the distant church and only about a 10 minute walk away.
Fabulous to have this and the beach so close at hand.
And this is the church close up, just across the road. After a brief rest we were back out for a wonderful Nepalese meal in one of the numerous and excellent restaurants on a nearby street. The Prof has really struck lucky with his new home.
The Sunday was not so good with a fierce wind and lots of rain around. We had nice breakfast out and collected some more furniture and after a bit more sorting out and making the flat nice and homely we took another shorter walk out to the beach.
We thought the weekend would be an endless round of deliveries and driving but it turned out to be a really fun weekend with a couple of great walks thrown in. The flat is now big enough to host all of us so lots more Liverpool visits planned.
The warm weather that started the previous Sunday continued through the week into a full on heatwave.
Time to try and rekindle that Italy vibe with short trip out for some van camping and swimming.
On our way to wilds of mid Wales we stopped off at the Irfon Wash Pool swimming hole. Last time we were here was a cold and showery February day when swimming wasn’t a terribly attractive idea. This time with temperatures up in the high 20’s we enjoyed a fine hour with TBF swimming in the wide & deep main pool while I swam in the gorge upstream and had a little play in the waterfalls.
Suitably refreshed, we headed over to Llyn Brianne for the evening. We found a fabulous little van spot, a short gravel track with room just for one van.
Our private little corner with great views over the reservoir.
After an fine al fresco meal we headed down to the water for a late evening swim.
The sunset wasn’t too bad either.
With such warm weather even at 8pm it was perfect for a dip.
Just me in the water this time, TBF deciding it was a little late.
Perfect reflections in the water. Unfortunately the glass smooth surface indicates it was completely calm and as the sun went down, out came the midges, swarming as I hurriedly got changed. Put something of a dampener on the evening as we had to hide in the van behind my newly installed insect netting over the doors which I have to say worked pretty well.
Next morning was stunning, gorgeous blue skies and still warm, thankfully with a light breeze to keep the midges away.
We went back to the lake shore for a pre-breakfast swim.
TBF taking to the water this time.
Fond memories of our early morning swims at Lake Garda.
Back to the van for breakfast.
Our days entertainment was more water based fun in the Irfon Valley. Far too hot to go hiking.
Its a superb valley especially on a hot and sunny late summer afternoon.
Parking is limited so rather than occupy the limited spaces we stopped at the far end of the valley and walked the 15 minutes to the main attraction.
There are a series of spectacular deep pools, perfect for swimming and jumping. The most impressive feature is the slot canyon you can see at the back of this pool. The river flows through a small gorge only a couple of feet across and its a real adventure to swim through it to the waterfall at the other end. If you look at my post from a visit in 2015 you can see some photos taken within the canyon and if you watch the little musical slideshow at the end there is some video.
We settled down for the day with a large picnic lunch and a cold beer.
It was pretty quiet when we arrived but as the morning ticked on, more and more people showed up.
There seemed to be numerous groups of young people who all seemed to know each other. I was worried they might be the noisy, loutish types but they were in fact, friendly, good natured and good fun to watch them messing about. A trio of lads were the life and soul and spent the afternoon amusing everyone by chucking themselves in boggy pools and mud trying to get as mucky as possible. One of them even tried to ride a bike in the deepest pool (he failed!). It was all very funny and a happy respectful party type of atmosphere.
I took a walk upstream to look at the upper reaches of the gorge. Whilst not as narrow as the slot canyon, it is still impressive.
Lots more deep pools for swimming and small waterfalls.
It would be a great place for canyoning although I’ve not done that for many years.
The gorge suddenly emerges onto the more lazy stretch above.
Back to base for more eating, drinking, and swimming.
And for me to behave like a big kid sitting in nature’s jacuzzi.
Time to head back home after a superb 24 hours out in the mountains as summer bid us farewell.
After all that hot sunshine, water based fun and sightseeing, it was back to the UK.
Our return in September coincided with a fine and hot spell of weather, a late replacement for what had been a pretty miserable July and August.
For TBF’s birthday we had a breakfast at the local farm shop followed by a trip to our local swimming spot on the Wye at Bredwardine Bridge.
Unlike the height of summer when there are dozens of people on the beach it was pretty well deserted.
We enjoyed a swim in the now much cooler waters.
And a relax with a beer (for me anyway) to celebrate, before a meal out later that evening.
The following day we headed out to the Black Mountains for a stroll. We were late setting off so took one of the shorter walks to take in Crug Mawr.
The summit – again – was swarming with flying ants (why do they love mountain summits) and yet a few yards away there were none. We ate lunch with a cuppa in relative calm and comfort.
When we set off earlier the weather was sunny but cool. As we continued the walk the temperatures began to rise.
I always like this small pond on the way down towards Patrishow.
After dropping into the valley we had to climb back up onto the ridge.
By this time the temperatures had soared and it was a hot and sweaty climb. This was heralding the heatwave that would stick around for the following week.
Numerous times when we’ve come back from a hot and sunny summer trip the UK has welcomed us back to reality with cold slanting rain. Males a change to feel a continuation of summer.
I spend alot of my time surfing the web looking for ideas on places to go, walking routes, travel ideas and tips to plan the perfect holiday or day out. (I'm a project manager I like to plan). I thought it was time to share my own experiences and contribute to the vast amounts in information that's already out there.
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