Archive for July 2023

Wiltshire Wanders   11 comments

IMG_7105

I’d been out with my old work mates from my Nokia and EE days. Despite a bad hangover after too many beers and Prosecco, I wanted to make a bit of a weekend of things while I was down that way so arranged a bit of a weekend meet up with THO, his better half and their little dog Mac.

IMG_7073

We took in a long planned walk around the ancient remains at Avebury. We parked up at Silbury Hill. Its a truly odd feature, centuries old, man-made but no-one still has any real idea why it was every built or what its purpose was. An arresting sight.

IMG_7074

From there we walked across the fields and into Avebury. Past the little church.

IMG_7075

Avebury Manor.

IMG_7075a

A little stop for a brew and a cookie.

IMG_7076

And on to the main event, the stone circle. Apparently the circle was pretty much derelict with farmers, burying the stones under ploughed fields and seemingly not caring in any way to preserve them. Luckily someone bought the land and the stones were saved.

IMG_7077

The stones are massive, much bigger than the one’s you see elsewhere. The circle itself is also huge, about a mile in diameter and completely encircling the whole village.

IMG_7078

Its a fascinating walk around the edge.

IMG_7081

Heading south there is an equally impressive stone row with two lines. As with Silbury Hill, and the Stone Circle no-one is really sure exactly what their purpose was, all lost in the annals of time.

IMG_7082

From there we wandered over the pleasant grassy meadows and fields.

IMG_7083

Views over the rolling hills of the Pewsey Downs.

IMG_7085

Views back to Silbury Hill.

IMG_7086

And on to the next site, West Kennett Long Barrow.

IMG_7087

Most of these burial chamber sites can be a little scant but this one was pretty much intact and very impressive. You could walk several yards in and see a number of individual chambers. I was surprised and impressed.

IMG_7089

A view along the top.

IMG_7090

On or way back to the vans THO convinced us to take a look at Swallowhead Springs.

IMG_7090a

Like many of the sites it was clearly a magnet for – lets just call them – spiritual types. Lots of ribbons and the like dangling from branches. There is quite a lot of that around there as I discovered the next morning.

IMG_7091

Another close up of Silbury Hill

IMG_7091b

And a photo of me and THO looking like a couple of escapees from a old persons mental institution.

IMG_7092

THO’s better half then took the dog home (before meeting us later for a meal and a pint or two) and we headed up to the top of the Pewsey Downs for another walk.

IMG_7095

We managed to find a sheltered spot for a brew on Adams Grave (he didn’t seem to mind) before a very nice stroll along the escarpment towards Milk Hill.

IMG_7096

Easy walking while we chatted with great views over Pewsey Vale before haeding back to the van via the Wansdyke.

IMG_7101

From there off to my little overnight stopover – a club site next door to the excellent Kings Arms in All Cannings.

IMG_7104

What better way to finish a great day out than camping next to a pub for a few beers and an excellent meal!

IMG_7106

We had plans the next day but I was awake early and found time to stop on the way over for another short walk near where we’d been the previous afternoon.

IMG_7107

A short walk up Knap Hill with more glorious early morning views of this new – to me anyway – area.

IMG_7110

I mentioned earlier that the area is frequented by people with a very different outlook on life shall we say. On the way back to van, a nice bloke shared with me what a nice morning it was and how the butterflies were beautiful, which they were. He then asked me if I’d seen any crop circles down in the valley and before I realised the trap I’d fallen into he was telling me about dead friends rising from the grave, ley-lines, setting up lasers on the hills and finally about alien crafts hovering above his friends house and then appearing to him on their TV screen. Friendly and harmless but clearly madder than a box of frogs so I bid him a hasty farewell and headed off for some earth/water bound pleasures.

Friday Night & Saturday Morning (Part 2)   10 comments

Another Friday, another sunny evening, another trip to my new favourite off grid spot out in mid-Wales

IMG_7020

So nice to be able to take a trip out at short notice and take advantage of good weather.

IMG_7021

Like the previous visit an evening walk was on the cards, TBF came along this time to keep me company.

IMG_7022

Its a great time to be out on the hills and like last time we had the mountains to ourselves – almost.

IMG_7023

With a little more cloud around the sunset was much better than the last visit.

IMG_7024

Back to the van for beers (or tea) and snacks.

IMG_7025

All washed down with a glorious sunset.

IMG_7026

Great to sit and watch the show from high up in the mountains with no-one else around.

IMG_7028

Time for bed.

IMG_7029

Next day the weather was forecasting storms later on but the morning was still warm and sunny.

IMG_7030

Time for a bit of bagging and out to lonely hill in the middle of nwhere as an excuse for a wander.

IMG_7031

Hazier than the previous weekend.

IMG_7032

On our way back to the van for lunch. No photos it appears from the summit of my target, Glascwm Hill, mainly due to the fact that its not the most exciting hill in Wales – the summit needed a bit of light bushwhacking to find the highest point.

IMG_7036

It was still very warm so we took the chance of quick swim before the promised rains arrived.

IMG_7039

A new spot for us, Penn-Ddol Rocks on the Wye near Builth Wells.

IMG_7040

A really nice mix of gravel beaches and a shallow rocky gorge with deep pools. Nice finish to another cracking short evening/day trip.

Picnic by the River   11 comments

That wonderful early summer weather continued.

IMG_7010

A relaxed family day was called for.

IMG_7004

We parked up in the pretty village of Kingsland, next to its church.

IMG_7005

And took a short walk to one of our favourite riverside picnic spots by the River Lugg.

IMG_7006

Its a perfect meadow contained in a loop of the river.

IMG_7007

A great spot for a sunny chill out on the grass and a very fine picnic.

IMG_7008

The river bank teems with insect life especially damselflies. Its also great for cold swim – the Lugg is always much colder than the Wye.

IMG_7009

I’ve been here several time now but never seen anyone else here.

IMG_7011

Just downstream there is an even better, deeper couple of swimming spots, here just above a weir.

IMG_7012

And below where it opens out into a small lake-like pool, deep, cold and refreshing.

IMG_7013

You have to swim through the first pool, scramble down the weir and over the rocks to reach the lower pool.

IMG_7014

The water was still flowing fast after the winter rains so it was quite hard to swim back to the weir to climb out as the lower pool is surrounded by fences and a protective army of brambles and nettles.

IMG_7015

We walked back across the meadows to collect TJF as we had one more box to tick for the perfect day out.

IMG_7016

Gelato ice creams at the local farm shop!

Posted July 19, 2023 by surfnslide in Herefordshire, Wild Swimming

Tagged with , ,

Friday Night & Saturday Morning (Part 1)   17 comments

Back to the end of the Bank Holiday week in May. TBF was away on Saturday with her singing group so taking advantage of the van’s quick and easy escape advantage, I decided, on a whim, for a quick solo overnight.

IMG_6975

Camping off-grid seems to be seriously frowned upon these days. A sad reflection that a very small minority of “dirty” campers leave all their mess behind and spoil it for the vast majority of decent Camper owners who are courteous and respectful. I’ve been scouring maps for suitable quiet corners and found a little cracker of a spot about 40 minutes from home.

IMG_6955

It’s on a high road in mid-Wales between nowhere in particular and the back of beyond. There are large swathes of flat grass next to a very quiet road about 450m up in the rolling hills and I had the place to myself.

IMG_6957

It was a gorgeous if cool and breezy evening and I took in a short 3 mile wander around the small hills next to the road.

IMG_6959

The Black Mountains

IMG_6961

Distant Brecon Beacons.

IMG_6963

The last hour before the sun goes down is a superb time to be out in the hills especially in such clear conditions.

IMG_6964

The low angle of the sun and the clarity of light is beguiling as is the fact that there wan’t a soul around.

IMG_6965

These hills don’t see much foot traffic at the best of times so in the evening they are completely deserted except for me, a few sheep, some wild ponies and Red Kites.

IMG_6966

Back to the van to watch the sunset and have a late evening beer.

IMG_6970

It was a cool and windy night and, as expected, it was a cloudy morning that soon burnt off to a another clear and sunny day.

IMG_6976

I took off in the opposite direction to my walk the previous night.

IMG_6977

The classic Brecon Beacons skyline.

IMG_6979

The Black Mountains.

IMG_6982

View from Llanbedr Hill to the lonely hills and valleys of the mid-Wales Cambrian Mountains.

IMG_6983

The small lake and Nature Reserve of Llan Bwch-Llyn.

IMG_6985

And one of the many small pools that dot this area of Wales, Henllyn. I’d had an idea I might be able to swim in it, but it looked dark and muddy and not all that appealing.

IMG_6986

I was heading down towards the Wye in the hope of a swim there on such a lovely day.

IMG_6987

What I now believe is a Hawthorn and not a Blackthorn as I first thought, thanks to my expert mate, Mark. They are extravagantly flowering down here in May and very striking. You can see the hills almost white in colour in some places. I find it strange that I’ve only come to notice them in the past few years.

IMG_6989

The pretty little church at Llandeilo Graban.

IMG_6992

I reached the Wye at Erwood and looked for a suitable swim spot. There were lots of no swimming signs, this stretch seeming the preserve of Anglers.

IMG_6993

Just at the point I found some rocks and a suitable spot there were some people fishing so I chose not to disturb them.

IMG_6994

Time to look for a lunch stop. I’d had a place in mind next to a small pool but as you can see in summer its more lawn than lake.

IMG_1173

This is what it looks like in winter!

IMG_6995

Next best option was Aberedw rocks

IMG_6996

They are very fetching on a sunny day and as with the whole area, largely devoid of walkers.

IMG_6997

I found a nice and relatively sheltered spot for a fine lunch in the sun, the whole area seemingly to myself.

IMG_6998

Magnificent views across the Wye valley

IMG_6999

The rest of the walk was a bit of a route march. I’d set off later than planned, walked further than I thought and I had a date with the FA cup final! I even ran a few of the gentle downhill bits – very not-me!

IMG_7003

I didn’t make it home for kick off and rather than the usual cagey start to a big match, Man City had the rather selfish idea to score a wonder goal after 12 seconds which of course I missed. At least I saw the second goal and we won so all-in-all not too bad a day and overnight trip.

Athens Odyssey – Last Impressions   10 comments

Our last day in Athens and I was up and out early to watch the sun come up from Philopappos Hill

IMG_6882

Great views of the Acropolis

IMG_6885

Out west towards the sea and the islands.

IMG_6887

And the Philopappos Monument.

IMG_6881

A great time be out and about before heading back down for some breakfast.

IMG_6894

Lovely light on the ruins of the Koilon that were just across the road from where we were staying.

IMG_6895

Every site had one of these very informative signs complete with drawings and photos and I wish I’d take more photos of these as they provided a lot more detail than my guidebook.

IMG_6896

For our last day we decided to wander further afield and make use of the excellent and very cheap public transport system (£3 a day for unlimited use of Buses, Trains, Trams and Metro). First stop was Lycabettus Hill, the obvious and highest of the many hills and outcrops in the city.

IMG_6897

As there are no high rise towers to overlook the city Lycabettus Hill makes a fine substitute. You can nget Funicular from about halfway up which the Funsters took advantage of but I decided to walk up.

IMG_6898

Fabulous views from the summit

IMG_6904

A panorama looking south across the city.

IMG_6905

And the small church on the top. A very enjoyable way to spend the morning.

IMG_6918

We headed back to the apartment to pick up swimming stuff as our afternoon plan was to head to the beach. We had lunch just round the corner from a wonderful little Kebab takeaway with outside tables. The lovely waitress very patiently explained the complex menu and combinations of breads, wraps, meats, salads etc. It was one of the best meals we had on the trip.

IMG_6916

Athens has quite an extensive beachfront area about an hours metro and tram ride from the centre. There are several beaches and we picked Kalamaki.

IMG_6915

The weather was a little cloudy and there were showers around but we stayed dry.

IMG_6921

Whilst the backdrop is quite plain, the beach is lovely and the water was crystal clear.

IMG_6923

TJF just paddled but me and TBF had a long swim. It was fun to have a couple of hours doing something completely different from all the history and sightseeing.

IMG_6924

Eventually the sun came out and we had a very enjoyable afternoon swimming and chilling on the beach.

IMG_6925

The views out to sea and over to the island of Aegina were excellent.

IMG_6926

A selfie of me almost looking happy!

IMG_6927

Sadly we had to head back to the apartment and one last meal in one of the local restaurants. Then it was time to say goodbye to Athens and a travel day to head home. A wonderful city and really so glad that we picked it for a city break.

IMG_6934

To finish off, just a few photos from the flight home. The Greek coast north of Athens.

IMG_6937

Pretty sure this is Dubrovnik.

IMG_6941

The coast of Croatia.

IMG_6943

The island of Cres and Lake Vrana.

IMG_6944

The Dolomites – I think.

IMG_6945

Zurich and its lake.

IMG_6946

The city of Basel on the Rhine.

IMG_6948

And a distant shot of Jodrell Bank as we came into land.

Athens Odyssey – Ancient Agora (and More)   10 comments

As I mentioned in previous posts, Athens is littered with historical ruins and we were now keen to see as many as time would allow. After our day on the Acropolis we headed out the next morning to see the Ancient Agora.

IMG_6820

This was the commercial, political and social centre of the city from around the 6th Century BC. Socrates lectured on philosophy, and St Paul preached here. There were buildings from the Ottoman era on the same site but these have been removed to reveal just the classical remains.

IMG_6811

The most striking building is the Stoa of Attalos and was essentially a covered shopping mall supported by 45 Doric columns. In fact Greeks still use the word “Stoa” for shopping arcades. It was restored in the 1950’s and now houses the site museum.

IMG_6814

I’m not normally much of a museum person but this one was really interesting, well laid out and informative. The oldest relics were from 4000 BC and included sculptures, coins and most interestingly an ancient stone voting machine. The other interesting little fact I picked up were about the Ostraka, small shards of pottery with names on that were used as a way to vote out people deemed troublesome. Its where we get the word “ostracized” from.

IMG_6815

Outside, the remains are less dramatic than on the Acropolis (with one notable exception) but no less interesting. Its more like an wide open area of peaceful parkland containing the relics. It has lots of bird life and of course, tortoises.

IMG_6816

Its also much quieter than the Acropolis (as are most of the sights in Athens) and its a lovely place for a sedate wander soaking in the classical ambiance as it were.

IMG_6818

This is the Byzantine Church of the Holy Apostles, which commemorates St Paul and his teachings. Sadly it was closed for repairs

IMG_6819

Looking back to the Stoa.

IMG_6822

And more fine views of the Acropolis.

IMG_6823

There are a whole range of temples and administrative building remains. The Tholos where what was in effect the local council sat. The Stoa of Zeus Eleutherios where Socrates did his stuff, alters, sculptures, theatres and many other buildings too numerous to mention here

IMG_6827

Its an extensive site and I’ve mad a note to do some more thorough research when I visit again.

IMG_6828

The most impressive structure on the site is the Temple of Hephaistos.

IMG_6829

Its smaller than the Parthenon but its really well preserved and you can get close to it so its a much better photo subject. The best preserved Doric Temple in Greece apparently.

IMG_6830

The legend of Hephaistos is somewhat open to interpretation. He was the god of forge and metalworking and provided weapons for many of the greek gods and heroes. Some stories say he was born lame or deformed and therefore rejected by his mother Hera and then later by his father Zeus after an argument.

IMG_6833

Some stories say he was either born without legs or had them cut off as part of his quarrel with Zeus. Some say he was cast out just for being ugly (at a time when the gods were supposedly perfect). It was also said that Athena came to him for weapons but his lust overcame him and he assaulted her. As I said, Greek legends are fascinating.

IMG_6837

What’s not in doubt is its a magnificent temple and catches the eye not only from within the Agora but from the Acropolis as well.

IMG_6839

Its sculptures depicting many legends and battles are largely gone but the one’s depicting the twelve labours of Hercules are still there.

IMG_6841

We spent a very enjoyable couple of hours wandering about and just enjoying the peaceful calm. Its a really lovely spot.

IMG_6785

On our way to lunch we took a look around the Roman Agora.

IMG_6787

You can buy a combined ticket for just few more Euros than the Acropolis ticket and you can go round another 5 or so key historic sights, this being one of them.

IMG_6843

Its not as extensive or interesting as the Greek version but it is worth a look around. It was the market area under Roman rule.

IMG_6847

The most interesting relic is the Tower of the Winds, a pentelic marble tower designed by a Macedonian Astronomer, Andronicus in the 2nd Century BC, as both a time and weather station. Each of its 8 sides is a compass point and it had a water clock inside powered from a spring on the Acropolis.

IMG_6848

The site was a classic Roman design, a covered area on all sides supported by columns with a central open garden area, likely with fountains.

IMG_6851

This is the entrance, Gate of Athena Archegetis, financed by Julius Caesar.

IMG_6854

After lunch and with a little time to kill we took in some more sights. This is Hadrians Arch. The Romans held Greek culture in high regard and protected many of its treasures. Hadrian considered Athens to be the capital of his empire. The gate was built as a thank you. Apologies for the finger over the lens but this appears to be the only photo I took.

IMG_6856

Next door is the Temple of Olympian Zeus. Whilst there are only 15 of the original 104 Corinthian columns remaining its still the largest temple in Greece by area.

IMG_6857

Its one of those sites where you have to imagine what a monumental and impressive structure it would have been in its pomp, which sadly wasn’t all that long. It was built by Hadrian in dedication to the city and to Olympian Zeus with a gold and ivory statue of him inside. He then decided to place an equally impressive statue of himself in there. His vanity may have cost him as 100 years later it was destroyed by the Herulians when they attacked the city.

IMG_6858

The columns are massive, 17m high and 1.7m across the base. One of them blew down in a storm in 1852 and is still lying there. The main set of remaining columns are surrounded by dense scaffolding so its not the most dramatic scene but still worth the visit, even if mostly in the minds eye.

IMG_6862

Onwards to the Acropolis Museum. As mentioned I’m not big on museums but everything I’d read said you couldn’t miss this one, and they were right.

IMG_6863

Its hugely impressive, well laid out and packed with a huge amount of sculptures and artefacts from the site.

IMG_6864

You aren’t supposed to take photos but I managed to sneak a few to give a feel for the place.

IMG_6865

Much like places such as the Louvre, you can only really scratch the surface of what’s there in the couple of hours time you have.

IMG_6866

And I can’t even begin to remember the significance of each of these sculptures other than to say they were wonderful and just so impressive to look at treasures that are 2500 years old.

IMG_6867

Most of the statues you see were discovered abandoned in a pit on the Acropolis which seemed extraordinary to me.

IMG_6868

These are the original Caryatids from the temple on the Acropolis that I mentioned in the previous post. You may notice that one is missing which is on account of it being in the British Museum. One of many artefacts taken in Victorian times by Lord Elgin – the famed Elgin Marbles. The reasoning behind this was, at the time, not entirely without justification. The Acropolis was treated pretty badly and much of the site was either neglected, badly maintained and subject to theft. Lord Elgin took one of the Caryatids and some of the Metopes and Friezes (stone tablets depicting the legends and battles) from the Parthenon to protect them. They have since become legendary as a long standing dispute between our two countries. Now that Greece has built this superb museum it seems only proper that we return them to be displayed alongside the rest, although our current Prime Minister has again refused. It has been pointed out to me that if we returned everything in the British Museum to its rightful home it would be a largely empty space.

IMG_6870

We took a nice drink in the museums roof top bar before returning to look at the top floor of the museum, laid out like the Parthenon. many of the original Metopes and Friezes are there depicting a wide array of battles, heroes and legends. Its quite brilliantly done but they were really strict there so I couldn’t grab any photos. All I can say is that I was mesmerised and would without hesitation pay to go back and have another look. Interestingly, there are just gaps where the Elgin Marbles should be and its just politely noted that they are housed in the British Museum. At least here they were not making an issue of it.

IMG_6871

There is one more treasure in, or rather, under, the museum. When excavating they discovered a whole Roman town.

IMG_6873

The museum has been suspended above it and you can now view the remains from walkways under the building.

IMG_6874

You can clearly make out houses, villas, walkways, courtyards and wells.

IMG_6875

I found this as fascinating as the treasures above.

IMG_6877

It appears that this would have been a very well-to-do neighbourhood complete with communal bath houses and latrines that Romans liked so much.

IMG_6878

Seeing from above was so much better than being down among the ruins where you lose some of the perspective. I was again transfixed not only by the remains but the way they had incorporated it into the museum in a way that I would think provides protection from the elements as well as visitors while making it accessible and easy to see. I thought that was brilliant.

IMG_6879

Another fantastic and fascinating day in this city of history.

Athens Odyssey – The Acropolis   11 comments

And so the main event! Seeing the Acropolis for the first time (as we’d done a couple of days before) is one of those great moments as an avid explorer of cities and historical sights. I recall feeling the same excitement when turning a corner in Rome and seeing the Colosseum for the first time. The best interpretation of iconic.

IMG_6749

Our research told us that an early start at the Acropolis was the way to go but clearly we weren’t early enough. There was quite a queue to get in even at 8:30 (later, first hand visual research seemed to show that late afternoon was much better)

IMG_6721

I always had it my head that the Acropolis was home only to the Parthenon. As we were about to discover there is so much more to the place. This is the Beule Gate (named after the French Archeologist who uncovered it) and the original entrance.

IMG_6720

Moving up (with lots of other people) to the Propylaia, the main entrance to the Acropolis.

IMG_6723

It has a central hall and two wings on either side with 5 gates that were the only entrance to the top if the Acropolis and the Panathenaic Way. As with many of the Greek temples here, it was built between 400 and 500BC

IMG_6772

Just off to the side is the beautiful and recently restored Temple of Athena Nike, revered as the Goddess of victory. As with most of these temples there were sculptures and friezes depicted famous legends and battles. Most of these are now in the Acropolis Museum as are most of the treasures and sculptures.

IMG_6771

The middle hallway.

IMG_6769

And the Central Hall

IMG_6728

The Funsters enjoying the history.

IMG_6761

We were lucky the day was the best we had. Clear, sunny and with a brisk breeze to keep us cool.

IMG_6751

And on to the big ticket item – the Parthenon!

IMG_6729

It’s regarded as the temple that most epitomises the glory of ancient Greece. Its dedicated to the goddess Athena Parthenos who symbolised the power and prestige of Athens – the city named after her. Athena takes many different forms representing many symbols. We all became fascinated by all the stories and legends associated with ancient Greece and its gods (some of which are quite strange and violent!)

IMG_6760

Its a Doric temple, the largest ever completed in Greece and the only one constructed completely from Pentelic Marble (except its wooden roof). It was built to celebrate the great Panathenaic Festival of 438 BC

IMG_6737

Its the columns that give its signature look. There are 8 columns at each end and 17 on each side. The temples foundations are slightly concave and the columns are slightly convex making both appear straight. The Pediments (the triangular elements at each end) were filled with elaborate sculptures. The west end depicted the contest between Athena and Poseidon for patronage of the city, the east end the birth of Athena from Zeus’ head!

IMG_6741

Funsters posing again!

IMG_6748

So a little Acropolis history, mostly steeped in stories and legends. The Phoenician king Kekrops founded a city on a rock near the sea. The gods of Olympus decreed it should be named for the god who could provide the best legacy for the mortals. Athena (goddess of wisdom among other things) produced an Olive tree, symbol of peace and prosperity. Poseidon (god of the sea) struck the rock with his trident and creating a saltwater spring, a symbol of maritime power. The gods judged that Athen’s gift would provide food, oil and fuel and therefore she was the winner (noting that much of Athens current wealth comes from sea, Poseidon’s domain.)

IMG_6765

Surrounding the upper parts of the Parthenon above the columns are the Metopes, square carved panels depicting more legends and battles (gods fighting monsters, Theseus battling the Amazon warriors, the battle of Troy. The inner temple had further panels of sculptures depicting the Panathenaic Festival. At the time these sculptures would have been gilded and brightly coloured. It must have been a breathtaking sight in its pomp. Most (not all of these sculptures, importantly) are now on display in the Acropolis Museum.

IMG_6768

A view across to Philopappos Hill and over the sea.

The Acropolis was occupied from around 4000 BC with temples built to Athena from the Mycenaean era. In 510 BC the Delphic Oracle declared it bas the sole province of the gods. All the buildings were burnt to the ground by the Persians in 480 BC after which Pericles began his ambitious building program. It turned the Acropolis into a dazzling city of temples, the finest materials, artists, sculptors, statues gilded and decorated in precious stones. The zenith of classical Greece and its devotion to to the cult of Athena.

IMG_6743

This is all that remains of a temple dedicated to the Roman occupiers, a show of faith that kept the peace.

IMG_6745

At the east end of the site flies the Greek flag. During the Nazi occupation of the city in WWII a couple. of youths climbed to the Acropolis and raised the flag in a show of defiance. The flag has flown there since the end of the war and ever since.

IMG_6744

In addition to the historical treasures, there are also some fabulous views from the site. Looking north towards Lycabettus Hill.

IMG_6747

And west over Plaka and the the Agora.

IMG_6734

This temple is the Erechtheion, standing on the most sacred part of the site where Athena produced the olive tree and Poseidon’s trident struck the rock. Its named after Erechtheus, a mythical king of Athens and was dedicated to the cults of all three. Its built on three levels to account for the uneven bedrock and is considered on of the best examples of Ionic architecture.

IMG_6752

The Acropolis has not always been treated with respect it deserves. Foreign occupations, inept renovations, visitor numbers, acid rain, earthquakes have all taken a toll. The worst disaster was that the occupying Turks in the 17th Century stored gunpowder in the Parthenon and when the Venetians attacked they detonated the gunpowder causing extensive damage to most of the buildings.

IMG_6732

The site was designated as World Heritage listed in 1987 and major (and more careful and professional) restoration works are ongoing and likely for a long time to come.

IMG_6754

One of the stand out and most beautiful features of the Acropolis is the Porch of the Caryatids.

IMG_6755

These ornately carved maidens supporting the porch are thought to be holding a libation bowl to be presented to king Kekrops who legends tell is buried beneath. What you see are replicas, the originals are now in the Acropolis Museum.

IMG_6758

Even though he lost the patronage to Athena there is still a Temple of Poseidon on the north side of the Erechtheion.

IMG_6759

Time had really flown and we’d been up here for well over two hours. You could spend a lot longer as its really a breathtaking site and its easy to become completely absorbed in all the legends and history. Much of our research made it clear that the difference between historical “facts” (as far as you can be sure at 2,500 years old) and legends/stories is somewhat blurred. What was never in doubt was just how endlessly fascinating the stories are, especially set against the importance of ancient Greece and the key social institutions they gave to the world.

IMG_6775

Another reason to take our leave was the site was now becoming seriously crowded. This is the queue of visitors trying to pass through the Propylaia.

IMG_6774

A great view over the Ancient Agora. With a now much better feel of the history of the city we were really looking forward to vsisiting the next day.

IMG_6777

But there was still more to see. As well as all the temples the site also has two theatres.

IMG_6778

This one is the Odeon of Herodes Atticus. It’s Roman and built around 161 AD. Its still in use and even though it looks quite small and intimate it holds 5000 people.

IMG_6780

It would be wonderful to watch a performance, especially having seen the Opera at the Amphitheatre in Verona last summer.

IMG_6766

The much older Theatre of Dionysos.

IMG_6781

This was originally a timber construction from the 6th Century BC and is widely thought to be the first theatre ever built. It was rebuilt in stone and marble around 330 BC to hold 17,000 people on 64 tiers, although only about 20 survive.

IMG_6784

After all that history it was time for a sit down and some lunch. It was early but we found a nice looking place where one group was already eating. We sat down and the waiter informed us politely that they weren’t open for another 15 mins but we were welcome to sit down. Then the owner came out and very rudely complained that they were closed and how outrageous it was that people should sit down at his tables! We were taken aback but then he stalked off and another waiter came across and gave us some menus. While we took a look, happy to wait around for them to officially open, the owner came out again and gave the waiter a real tongue lashing for having given us menus. At that, we left and returned to the restaurant we’d eaten at the day before where once again we were looked after in the casual yet openly friendly way that was the norm in the many other places we ate.

IMG_6788

Another post lunch ice cream and a short wander gave us a need for another sit down and a drink in a rooftop bar. This one was even better than the previous one and we sat for a good hour or more. Mind you we had to move from this sunny spot as the direct sun was a little hot!

IMG_6789

More fabulous views over the Acropolis to accompany the drinks. A fine way to spend the afternoon.

IMG_6791

We wandered back to the apartment to continue the relaxation theme in the garden. Past this lovely church.

IMG_6793

With great views to Lycabettus Hill

IMG_6794

And one final view back to the Acropolis. If I return to Athens (and we have another Greece trip in planning stages at the moment) then I would without question visit the Acropolis again. Maybe this time with a tour guide or an audio guide to really delve into the stories. A truly amazing place.