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Mountains by the Coast   Leave a comment

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Coastal walking seems to fall into two types. Stretches of easy walking along the cliff tops punctuated by occasional short drops to the sea. Then there are sections of punishing, relentless climbs and drops like a rollercoaster. We chose one of these for our last day in Cornwall.

We were looking for a section we hadn’t walked before so headed for Port Quin with a view to walking to Port Isaac or Port Gaverne and back.The sunny weather had been replaced by leaden grey skies and rain looked a certainty. Having had two pretty decent days in November, a third would be pushing our luck to the extremes so we weren’t disheartened and coastlines always deliver an experience even on the worst of days

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Port Quin is a tiny settlement barely worthy of a name. Just a few National Trust houses for rent (I think my parents stayed here once) and some run down looking apartments. The cove is tiny in width but long in length. Not unlike Boscastle further north

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The first steep climb of the day gave views across the dark and foreboding coastline

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The section in shot below, across Downgate Cove from Kellan Head, had three climbs of around 250 feet and back down to sea level. Its only about a mile and only a third of the way to where we were going!

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A couple of seals watched us from the water but it was far too gloomy to get a decent image

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Looking back along the first mountainous stretch

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And along the next one, Greengarden Cove. It rained on and off for a while on this stretch but it never materialised into the downpour we expected and we never really got wet all day which was a bonus

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These steps went on forever and would be brutal if walking the other up (we came down)

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Right down to sea level at Pine Haven

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You can see the steep steps in the shot below. Walking the coast path must be really hard work in stretches like this. On a bad day with wind and rain it must be morale sapping to trudge up one steep climb with a heavy pack only to drop back down and have to do it all over again a few minutes later and keep that going for a whole day. This section of the SW coast path is notoriously challenging

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It looked really dark and nasty further north. The “island” on the left hand side below is Tintagel and its castle

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After another steep climb we arrived at Port Isaac. No idea what setting my iPhone drifted on to here. Must be the “colour drained hangover look” setting

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Back to normal exposure

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Port Isaac was lovely even under a grey sky although it was as bright a part of the day as we had. It also had an excellent cafe, The Chapel Cafe. A superb, hearty veggie soup sustained us for the journey back. The Fish Finger sandwich here is legendary and looked awesome but I wasn’t hungry enough to do it justice

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We returned to Port Quin by an inland route. It was one of the muddiest, dreariest routes I’ve walked in a while (apart from coastal views at the start and finish). Long trudges across endless cow-pat spattered fields is not my idea of fun. Reminds you that rural Cornwall (away from the moorland bits) is pretty ordinary. It’s the coastline that’s its star attraction

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To finish on more of high we extended the walk beyond Port Quin to the west to look at Doyden Point and Doyden Castle

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It’s another NT property and you can rent it – must be an interesting place to stay

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It was cold and blustery up here so we didn’t linger but the views were immense

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Port Quin Harbour

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Doyden Castle

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A not too longish walk of 6 miles, in the end but with a mountain-climbing amount of ascent. My OS Maps app says 3,880 feet but that can’t be right. I’d estimate over 2,000 feet though, on very steep slippery paths. Who needs mountains

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We had a cuppa in the car park and headed off to try to see the display of starlings near Bodmin Moor. It was lashing down with rain when we got there and we were a bit late for the main show so I didn’t get any images or video as I wanted. What we did see was spectacular and it is a truly extraordinary sight. If you get chance to see one these displays then make the effort, its amazing

TBF was a little distracted as she thought she’d lost her wedding ring on the walk. It’s a family heirloom and irreplaceable so she was pretty upset. We were sure it was gone for good but luckily it turned up in the boot bag when we got home. It’s now been altered so it doesn’t slip off so easily.  A happy ending to great weekend away

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Wild and Windy on the Coast   4 comments

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After the calm clear weather on Dartmoor, the next day was a refreshing change. Still plenty of blue sky around but now mixed with some dark black storm clouds and a keen blustery wind. Perfect for a coastal walk. We parked up at Treyarnon Bay, one of our favourites and headed south for an out and back before lunch.

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There were some stunning cloud and rainbow effects and some of the clouds looked very angry and full of rain

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The stormy seas, crashing waves and winter light make for great photos. I used the HDR setting on my iPhone for these and it takes a damn fine photo

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This storm had me worried but it passed us bay

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The first stretch to Porthcothan, the next beach along is fairly flat but takes a while to walk as the cliffs are constantly indented by wild, deep and inaccessible coves all with wonderful names.  Pepper, Warren and Fox Coves, Minnows Islands, Will’s Rock

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TBH looking happy with a very angry storm sweeping past. Luckily it only rained for a couple of minutes while we were out and we had some glorious sunshine

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We hoped there might be a cafe or something at Porthcothan but everything was shut for the winter. We pushed on south towards the headland at Park Head

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It was glorious walking if a little wild and windy

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Another cove at Porth Mear

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And looking back north the way we’d come along Tescore Islands

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Time was pressing so we turned around and headed back before we reached the headland

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Porthcothan beach was now exposed by the tide and Will’s Rock was framed in the surf

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From there it was a race against the weather to reach the YHA at Treyarnon Bay for lunch. We won – just – rain battering the windows as we settled in. It’s a really fine cafe and we had a lovely light Tapas style lunch. A walk of over 8 miles so we’d earned it.

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Now the actual plan had been to do some kayak surfing and body-boarding in the afternoon. Sitting in the warmth of the cafe it suddenly seemed like a rather stupid idea. After preparing a detailed list of safety conscious excuses we decided another short stroll along the cliffs and an amble around Padstow was a much more sensible plan

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I think the photos justify that decision

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Padstow is a tourist hotspot and rammed in summer. In November it returns to being a quiet fishing village with a handful of people. Not a great place if you are on a diet though. Its packed with excellent, restaurants, cafes and bakeries selling pasties and the like. We managed to avoid temptation (other than a sneaky millionaire shortbread) as we were eating out in the evening

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The setting sun created some wonderful vistas

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The harbour in particular looked rather fine

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And to finish off, a couple of photos from our B&B bedroom window. Not too shabby

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This is what birthday’s should be about (if you can’t afford a tropical white sand beach anyway)

A Dartmoor Stroll   4 comments

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The Jones family mantra is do nice stuff rather than have nice stuff when it comes to Birthday’s etc. Past couple of years we’ve gone for holidays and trips away in lieu of pressies and much the better for it. As a birthday treat me and TBF leave the kids behind and take a trip to Cornwall. It’s the perfect combination of hill and coastal walking together with a chance to get dressed up (barely in my case) and have a nice meal. We pick November for TBF as it’s always a low time of year between holidays and cheers us up.

We took in what seems to have become a routine now, lunch in the excellent Cafe on the Green in Widecombe on Dartmoor followed by an afternoon walk. We’ve been lucky so far and had a couple of fabulous walks and this time was even better, a clear still sunny day in November, a real slice of luck. As always I took inspiration from Steve over at Treks and Tors and a recent walk he did near Burrator Reservoir. We didn’t have time for the full walk as November days are short but it is another superb area and we had a cracking walk

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It took a bit of aimless wandering in the forest before we found the access onto open ground. The autumn light on the bare trees was stunning

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It’s a pretty steep climb up on to Sheeps Tor but the views back across the reservoir to Leather Tor and Sharpitor made things a little easier to cope with

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The Dartmoor ponies welcomed us up on to the top

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TBF was enjoying seeing the views through new glasses, she’s gone all varifocal

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The panorama from the top is stunning. As its near the outer edge you can see down to the coast at Plymouth and across to Bodmin Moor and Cornwall as well as back towards the expanse and tors of Dartmoor itself

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We pressed on as we reckoned we could take in a route back along the other side of the valley over Combshead Tor and Down Tor

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There were some very soggy patches and a good deal of bashing through the dwindling bracken.

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The brown autumn colours in the low sun were sublime

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We stopped for a brew on Combshead Tor while we still had sunlight to keep us warm

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I love the way the sun picks out the features in the rocks and the contrast in views looking straight into the sun

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The sun dipped behind the clouds and there was an instant drop in temperature so we packed up quickly and pressed on

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There is an impressive stone circle and stone row but it was half in shadow and sun and almost impossible to take a decent photo

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Down Tor was a fine summit and we’d have lingered had darkness not been creeping, or indeed racing in

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The setting sun was playing nicely with the clouds as we walked quickly back to the car

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Thanks to Steve, a great idea for a walk and a fine start to our weekend away

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Off to Padstow, checked into our B&B and out for a fine meal, slightly sullied by the fact it was still and cloudless on the walk down and blowing a gale and hammering it down when we walked back. Fickle British weather!

My classic local walk   12 comments

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I have a handful of walks that I would say are classics of South Wales and this is one of them. The Black Mountain has all the grandeur of the Beacons yet sees almost none of its busy summits. On this day we saw probably no more than 10 people for the whole walk on a wild, windy and spectacular day. I’m claiming this walk as my own as I’ve never seen this walk in a guide-book or anyone even mention the path under the edges. I found it, therefore its my walk! 🙂

I devised this walk by accident (albeit in the other direction) not long after I moved down here. I was on a supposedly short walk to one of the lakes looking for a wild camp and I just carried on across the tops, discovering the paths below the cliffs on my way back

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As with the previous walk it was a laze in bed late start and as before a gloomy start developed into a cracker of day.

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I think my iPhone camera had moved itself into some kind of vivid mode for these first couple of shots as we headed up to Llyn y Fan Fawr

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As we climbed the dark clouds started to dissipate and the views to the east opened out to the sky

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The clouds were still shrouding the summits but I was confident it would clear. Thinking it might take an hour or so I decided to follow the lower route under the edges first to give it some time. Not a day for dallying. It was bitterly cold and there had been some light snow cover the past couple of days

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It’s a beautiful lake and one of my favourites

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There were dark clouds and storms all around but we seemed to miss them all

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The walk under the cliffs is always a delight but on a winter’s day under brooding clouds its pretty dark for decent photos

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We found a sheltered spot behind a wall by Llyn y Fan Fach for some lunch before pushing on.

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It’s quite a long walk for a short winter day with a late start but the going is so easy and the views so superb that you cover the ground swiftly

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Once up on the edges the wind was ferocious but the sky and the air stunningly clear. Pin sharp clarity

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I was in my element, an even better day than the last outing. Much colder and windier but that’s no bad thing

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The sun was perfect for catching the edges

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Looking east

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And West

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The sun was already low and we still had a way to go but at least the wind was behind us, another good reason to walk this way around

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On top of Bannau sir Gaer we decided not to risk coming down the last boggy slopes to the car in the dark and cut the corner off direct to Fan Brycheiniog. It misses a couple of airy summits but saves a couple of miles

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Time to head down and another of those afternoons where its hard to drag yourself away. The views were immense and once you drop down you know that’s the end of the sunshine for the day

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We lingered as long as we dared and could stand the cold before leaving this lonely wonderland behind

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The skies then took over as the centre of attention.

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Pale blues and sheets and streaks of pink as the sun receded and night drew in

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After the last outing and its dark end this one was perfectly planned and we finished in the last of the afternoon light

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Black Mountain

8 miles and 2,400 feet of ascent and pure wind-blown, sun-soaked joy

Back to Winter   12 comments

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Well, that’s enough of city breaks for 2017. Time to get back to main feature of the blog namely out and about in the mountains. The weekend after our Barcelona trip and a decent Sunday forecast had us out in the Black Mountains. I’m always looking for a different take or a new route having explored the area extensively since I’ve lived in Herefordshire. I’d done both of today’s summits many times before but never on the same walk.

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A late start, possibly because I saw that the forecast was improving, more likely I just stayed in bed too long

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It was a cold and windy day with showers scudding over some of the tops. As ever though, sunshine and showers delivers crystal clear clarity to the air and the views

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The Sugar Loaf is a fine mountain I’ve been up many times but this is only the second time I’ve been up from the east side

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The views from the way up and the top were superb

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Not a day for dallying on the summit in an icy wind that I’m sure would have dropped as snow if we’d been caught in a shower

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We pushed on down with several mountain bikers on their way up. Too steep for me and a bike I have to say. We had a few drops of rain but nothing much and the skies cleared magnificently afterwards

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The last few leaves were still clinging to the trees as Autumn faded away

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The steep roads onto the open hillside of Crug Mawr warmed us up sufficiently to take in a short stop for a cuppa and a bite to eat. A grand view along the Grwyne Fechan valley to enjoy

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We didn’t linger long as it was pretty cold and we still had long way to walk and the sun was going down

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As we approached the summit of Crug Mawr the sun was turning the mountains a deep golden brown

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It’s the best time to be on the mountains, late in the day as the sun sets. No-one around but clear skies and gorgeous contrasts picked out by the low angled sun

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We briefly enjoyed the summit panoramas before heading off into the approaching darkness

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The price to pay for these views was a long walk back along the lanes to the car. TJS was not best pleased by this turn of events and castigated me for my poor planning in having to walk in the dark. I tried to inform him that hiking is not an exact science, that we were well off the hills before it got dark and our reward were some stunning views. He wasn’t placated by this and stomped off to the car. If he’s going to carry on hiking with his old man he better get used to this as I often linger on hills in winter to make the most of  day and end up coming down in darkness

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A long walk in the end of almost 12 miles but a good one for the future. Most of the road walking could be avoided on valley paths but not a great idea trying to find stiles and gates in the dark. Winter was back, sunny cities a thing of the past. I love my city trips but my heart will always belong to the mountains

 

Posted December 5, 2017 by surfnslide in Black Mountains, Wales, Walking

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Barcelona – Beach Life   14 comments

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Our last day before flying home in the evening was a glorious one, clear, sunny and pretty hot. We decided to take a metro out to the far end of the beaches and walk back along the seafront. We’d been to the beach a few times before, notably on our first day and in the middle of the week for a swim

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The first day was a chance to have a sandwich on the rocks

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And a stroll down to this all-glass hotel affair at the far end. Probably an ugly monstrosity to some but I quite liked it

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A couple of photos from our second visit

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We went for a swim this time. Colder than I thought but great to swim in the sea on a warm day at the end of October

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The beach front is a good few miles long and really well done. By that I mean it’s not a natural beach. This whole area was derelict and run down before the Olympics came along. In order to make the city presentable everything was renovated and sand imported to make this splendid beach frontage

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As it was Sunday it was packed with locals all enjoying some warm autumn sunshine. It was a cracking walk just watching the people and soaking up the rays. Winter is long and cold in the UK so we wanted to make the most of this! 🙂

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The beaches are all spotlessly clean and the water crystal clear. Fabulous for a swim but as we were traveling at the end of day it wasn’t really on for us even though it was a perfect day. The whole walk is pedestrianized so no cars to trouble us. There is a bike path as well and it would be a very pleasant leisurely ride

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These two skyscrapers and strange sculpture dominate the southern end of the beach. Again I really liked them and I didn’t feel they were out-of-place

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After lunch we sat on the beach for an hour or so and paddled in the cool water

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A very relaxing way to spend our last afternoon

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We took another wander down to the big glass hotel

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And its cracking views through the palms back along the sea front

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Nothing finer than a stroll in the warm sunshine along a Mediterranean beach.

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We took our leave of the beach, walked back to town through the marina, ate some takeaway churros, picked up our bags and caught a train to airport for our flight home. Not back till after 1am but that’s what holidays should be about making the most of every minute

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What a fantastic city. Architecture, history, mountains and a long beach. Brilliant way to spend the last week of October

 

Posted December 1, 2017 by surfnslide in Barcelona, Cities

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Barcelona – Font Magica   17 comments

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On our last evening we headed back over to the fountains near Placa Espanya and the Palau Nacional. There was already a massive crowd there and seating room on the steps was at a premium. What had everyone come here to see? The Magic Musical Fountain Show of course!

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Now I know you’re thinking “Magic Musical Fountains – how tacky” and I have to say I was dubious after the one we saw in Budapest

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However this one was done on a much bigger and grander scale and it was mighty impressive

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The way they controlled the water and the lights was really rather magnificent and I enjoyed it immensely and a lot more than I thought I would

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The description sounded like they did one show every 30 minutes but it just seemed to be one long continuous show for between 1-1.5 hours

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We arrived on the dot at 9 when it was crowded but if visiting again its best to show up 15-20 minutes after the start time as many people have wandered off by then and there is a lot more space and places to sit on the steps. Its not like you miss much as each combination is all on a similar theme

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We went and stood close up for the final few minutes before we headed back to the apartment. We’d been there 45 minutes which was plenty and it was a grand way to finish off our last night in the city

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I took several video clips which came out pretty well so I put them together in a little compilation below

 

Pretty good eh!

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As we walked back along the road to Placa Espanya the fountains, columns and palace looked wonderful

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The road was lined with smaller fountains also lit in a most charming fashion

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A bit tacky and cheesy but very well put on, and, a real novelty in Barcelona, free!

Posted November 30, 2017 by surfnslide in Barcelona, Cities

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