There is more to the Llyn Peninsula than just beaches. It has some superb coastal walks and small mountains to climb. Let’s take a look…..
On our first day we set off early from home so we could make the most of a good forecast and pitch the trailer in good time. Before that hard work we took a stroll along the coast.
Breezy but a clear blue sunny day made the beaches and water look very inviting.
Gave us our first chance to meet the Professor’s girlfriend and very lovely she is too. Fitted in well with the gang and joined in all the usual fun as well as enjoying the outdoor walk side of things.
Set us up in grand style for a great week.
No visit would be complete without a trip to the far end of the peninsula and a coastal walk taking in the highest point of Mynydd Anelog (seen here in the background).
The weather was very odd, hot and sweaty in the sun but with layers of mist along the coast and here, between the mainland and the island of Bardsey.
The walk to Mynydd Anelog is typical coastal walking, namely a lot more ascent and descent than you’d like!
However with views like this, its well worth the effort (if a little hazy on this day)
Approaching the top of Mynydd Anelog.
Looking back over the headland of Mynydd Mawr to Bardsey.
And looking back towards Snowdonia where the weather looked very much more unsettled.
As we continued our walk the banks of low cloud rolled back in.
After we stopped for an ice cream (and in my case a chilled cider) that mist enveloped us and created some rather weird effects.
In the sunshine it was still really hot but when the mist rolled in it was instantly cold.
At times where the breeze was blowing it in, it was like standing in front of an air conditioning unit.
Some of our party took a longer walk and reported back that they managed to get above the cloud. Sadly we’d headed back to the beach by then. Still, an impressive walk in unusual conditions.
And of course anyone who’s been reading my blog since the start (way back in 2011) knows my love for Carn Fadryn.
This is its baby sibling.
We walk up here every time we visit and as its DB Juniors birthday around the time of our usual trip we’ve climbed it on his birthday a few times – we always refer to it as birthday hill and here is the birthday boy in question.
The heather was in full bloom and looking magnificent although this picture doesn’t really capture it.
Views opening out as we climb.
I’ve come to love and seek out those small hills that deliver expansive views (indeed me and Mark are planning a book on the subject that we will never write). I have a wide list now but Carn Fadryn is easily the pick of the bunch, for me anyway. Me and Mark debate this regularly, always coming down to choice between Carn Fadryn and Arnside Knott. Mark always chooses the latter as its his local hill he can walk from home and he knows every path and corner. Whilst I’ve grown to love it as well having climbed it many times myself, my heart will always belong to Carn Fadryn. Its even featured in a recent TGO magazine article by Jim Perrin.
With views like this its not hard to see why we love it so much. In one direction you have the distant mountains of Snowdonia.
In the other a view along the peninsula, both coastlines visible.This day we also had the clearest view of the Wicklow Mountains in Ireland that I can remember.
We spread out across the top to enjoy a leisurely brew and snacks.
Mark managed to find enough space to lie down!
We spent a good hour up here despite the strong breeze blowing. On a perfect day of clear views and brooding distant clouds its hard to tear yourself away.
That’s it from part 1 of our holidays. Part 2 coming up in the next few posts
We did plenty of walking during a week in Wales. I’ve rolled them all into one long post otherwise I’ll never catch up the blog!
First up, one of our regular classics. A trip down to the far end of the peninsula, parking up on the summit of Mynydd Mawr, kicking things off with a picnic in the sun.
Its a grand spot with panoramic views out across to Bardsey and back along the spine of the peninsula towards Snowdonia.
The colours were just amazing. Deep blue sky, azure sea, purple heather and yellow gorse.
There is plenty of up and down as you head NE towards Mynydd Anelog to work off that picnic.
More sensational views as the path is largely well above the waterline
Up onto Mynydd Anelog another of the Llyn’s magnificent view points.
Happy campers enjoying a marvellous summer stroll.
Final views from Mynydd Mawr before heading back for some beach fun.
Later in the week while others played on the beach me, TJS and TBF went out for another walk, this time to The Rivals. It was a late in the afternoon so we planned to do two of the three.
More stunning purple heather and more stunning vistas.
Looking back at the high summit of Yr Eifl from the third and un-named Rival.
It may not have a name but its a wonderful little summit. The climb from behind the Mobile Phone mast is up a carved set of steps through the scree and the views from the summit every bit as good as others in the area, if not better.
We were lucky to catch the summit under such a clear sky making the views even better (it was a bit dreary the last time we were up here).
This range of hills tucked between Snowdonia and the peninsula are just begging a walk one of these days although I know almost nothing about them.
Its pretty much 1,500 feet straight down to the sea making for amazing coastal panoramas.
Time to head back down to the col for the steep climb to the highest point.
A view down the steep steps that take you up/down to the phone mast.
The third of the Rivals, the magnificent hill fort of Tre’r Ceiri.
And the view back to our first peak. The cloud had rolled in while we climbed, heralding some overnight rain but a cracking afternoon out.
No trip to the area is complete without and ascent of my favourite small hill, Carn Fadryn (although this is its little sibling)
As always a team outing that all the families enjoy.
It was a tag-team sort of week with comings and goings of various people. EWO had joined us by now.
A couple of photos from a very short local walk along the cliffs at Towyn, curtailed by clouds of horrid black flies.
There is one in the photo below for proof.
On our last day, the cast had changed again. The Silverdale Massive had gone home but numbers were swelled by TYG and Z from Harrogate.
We took a walk around the coast at Whistling Sands, Porth Oer.
There were dark clouds and storms scudding across the sky but as the day progressed the blue sky took hold and it was fabulous walk.
Team photo.
We wandered along the coast and then returned to the small summit of Mynydd Carreg.
Me and TJS had been up here a few years back on a dreary day when it was in the cloud.
As you can see, yet another of the Llyn Peninsula’s seemingly endless collection of a small hills with great views.
I love this part of the world. An irresistible combination of stunning coastline, beautiful beaches, and small mountains. Despite this, it still seems little known (relatively speaking) and uncrowded. A gem.
Blog silence is over and I’m back from my summer travels. Much to tell you about our grand tour of Europe but before that (be patient) one post to catch up on. I don’t need a calendar or alarm to remind me the school summer holidays have started. Other than a house with two sullen looking teenagers moping about to tell me term-time is over, I find myself at Towyn Farm Campsite and beach as if to celebrate. Friends and their offspring gather and fun is had by all.
When we arrived it was glorious, a cloudless blue sky and plenty of warm sunshine to heat me up while I was putting the camper up. Excellent. When I awoke the next morning it was lashing it down. Ho hum!
By late morning it had stopped and whilst the hills were still shrouded in cloud we decided to go for a walk anyway. It was DB Jr’s Birthday so he gets to choose and he chose Carn Fadryn, better known to him as Birthday Hill. Inspired. As we drove up and walked higher so the cloud lifted. The bracken was wet and the trailblazer – me – got quite a soaking. No matter when you’re climbing a small hill with disproportionately great views!
Bilberries were plentiful on the way up, stringing the party out somewhat
By the time we summited, blue sky was plentiful and views stunning.
TJS decided that he could see Pembrokeshire even though he was looking north. After a suitable period of laughter I judged the distant land we were looking at as Anglesey when in fact it was Ireland. I’ve been up here many times but never seen that far. Amazing transformation in the weather from a few hours previous. TJS continues to claim that mistaking the North Irish sea for Pembrokeshire and then having me mistake Anglesey for Ireland was some kind of moral victory – the poor deluded boy.
A trip up Carn Fadryn is essential on these gatherings and this time it got the trip off to a great start. I don’t remember it raining at the end of the day but I guess it must have done if this photo is anything to go by
Whatever, the weather delivered a stunning sunset. The beach faces North West, ideal for sunsets at this time of year
We adopted the same approach the next day. Lazy breakfast, late morning walk, late lunch. This time down to the end of the peninsula. It’s a glorious walk and the Silverdale gang had never done it. They were suitably impressed
All was going well until we all got a soaking from a vicious heavy shower a few minutes before we reached the cars. Small price to pay for cracking walk. Not sure what we did the rest of the day. It may have rained. We may have gone to the beach. Without photos I have no chance of remembering these days.
Same for the following day. I think – he said hesitantly – that we had a spell of heavy and persistent rain all afternoon. We gathered in the camper to play games, tell stories and drink tea. Spirits were high even in bad weather
Later (based on these photos anyway) we must have had a grand sunset and played games on the beach in the fading light.
Great fun if your idea of fun is trying to catch a dark red cricket ball or catch a frisbee hurtling towards you in the twilight (it is great fun by the way)
Now the next day I do remember. We went for a walk. Again. This time an early start and we headed up to The Rivals. We walked up here a few years ago but there was some unfinished business and unclimbed hills. It was a gloomy chilly day but again spirits were high as we headed out to an un-named point 250m above the sea
Its an amazing spot, a view into an almost secret coastline. The cliffs are so severe that no path traverses the shoreline. The Coast path actually traverses through The Rivals
The views down to the sea are precipitous, enough to make my legs go wobbly. The view up and along the coast in both directions magnificent even under a grey sky
Time to move on and bag one of the obvious three summits we hadn’t done, again un-named. We found a sketchy damp path most of the way but then these mountains are made of stern stuff. The path vanished to be replaced by waist deep heather covering boulders. It took an age to climb the last few hundred feet. There was bitching aplenty including me, from my ever twisting knees. Having just had a knee op, I was warned to stay off “uneven ground”. I think this might just fit the description
Time for a brew on the summit. I had a stove, EWO had a flask of coffee with milk. Well he would have done if his partner, TYG had not put milk in the wrong flask. He was not best pleased. “You total waste of space” was the insult he chose. Not sure why I found it so funny. I still do. In my good mood I offered him my milk to prove the space I’d been occupying was being well used
May as well bag the main summit while were there. A steep and swift climb had us admiring further summit views
A grand morning out and by the time we’d reached the campsite, sunshine was again plentiful. A game of, well I can’t remember actually. It involves throwing blocks of wood at other blocks of wood. Sound boring? Well its not. Way more skillful than it sounds and enormous fun with a gang of people. EWO called it “Plop”. Not the correct name but much funnier.
An afternoon on the beach for the usual fun, games of tennis, cricket, rounders, baseball etc
I went in the sea and body-boarded one of the days. Can’t remember which day. Might have been this one. Possibly the day before
Not to worry. We had some sunny weather and that’s what matters
Our last evening was spent trying to BBQ a pigs worth of local sausages (Black Pudding ones in my case – awesome) in a strong wind. The weather had been breezy for almost the entire week, making my decision to pitch facing the prevailing wind direction seem rather foolish (although it was dry warm, sunny and calm when I did)
The last day we packed up but left enough time for another afternoon on the beach, this time to play bowls in a pathetically over-competitive way 🙂
Another superb week away. Set us up nicely for our main holiday a week later. A Tale of Eight Cities. Coming soon…..
As the kids break for summer we head to the Llyn Peninsula and Towyn Farm. Familiar faces of old friends and favourite beach spots and play draws us back year on year. It was, as always a wonderful few days, relaxing and comfortable. The weather was kind, warm with plenty of sunshine and the rain restricted to nights and early mornings. I don’t seem to have taken any photos of the beach fun that dominates these holidays. If you want a flavour then just look back through my older posts and you’ll find all the evidence you need of just how special a place this and why it has such a hold on my heart.
By way of compensation I do have some photos of a walk along the coast and up to the splendidly name Mynydd Anelog.
We did a similar walk a couple of years back and discovered just what a quiet, unspoilt and magnificent stretch of coast it is.
It was bright but with a good spread of cloud but as we walked it cleared into a pretty much cloudless late afternoon and early evening
We even managed to convince a few of the teenagers to join us
The views from Mynydd Anelog – and in fact all of the various hills along the peninsula are majestic. It’s rather splendid to be able to see both north and south coasts simultaneously. There are other parts of the UK that have a much higher profile and reputation for coastal splendour but the Llyn Peninsula is as good as any of them
At this time of year both the heather and gorse are in bloom and gives striking contrast of colour especially on a clear blue summers evening
As always the island of Bardsey has pride of place off the coast
We were late back to campsite to find everyone else in a deep game of – well, I can’t remember the name – that involves throwing blocks of wood at other blocks of wood. It’s a rather strange and equally skilful and compelling game and I was bit disappointed to miss out. Made for a good spectator sport while I fired up the BBQ
And seeing as the campsite delivers some stunning sunsets………..
A fabulous long weekend to warm up for our main summer holiday (yes,another one!)
TJS is now an obsessive Hiker. I’m pretty proud that he’s really keen to get out and has now reached that sad point (for me anyway) where he is fitter, faster and stronger than me – not too tricky these days. Whilst I’m trying to educate him to the charms of lesser known mountains like all new starters there is always that need to climb the higher and more famous peaks. He’s been hassling me for years to take him up Snowdon but it’s not exactly on our doorstep. Whilst in the Llyn Peninsula a few weeks back, less than an hour away, I finally made good on my promise.
We chose a route up the western side, mainly as it’s the closest to where we were staying but it’s also quieter and a side I’ve not seen much of.
We set off from Rhydd Ddu under a grey sky with a promise of sunshine later and headed up through the mine workings to Bwlch Cwn Llan. The sun started to peep through the clouds but Snowdon was still capped by cloud. There was clearly sunshine out west and we hoped we’d see that later – we had a long day planned
The col is a fine place, a real atmosphere of industry long gone amongst great scenery. Rather than despoiling a mountain I find these old quarries fascinating. A glimpse into the past.
As an appetiser we climbed Yr Aran to the south of the col. A summit as good as Snowdon itself but much quieter (we had it all to ourselves). After a steep climb we crested the summit in watery sunshine to a panorama around the Snowdon Massif, across Cardigan Bay and to the western Snowdonia Mountains of Moel Heog, the Nantlle Ridge and Mynydd Mawr.
I often point out to TJS that smaller hills often give better views than the higher summits and this one is a great case in point
We still had our main summit to climb and we retraced our steps to the col and began the long ascent up the south ridge. I’ve read that this is a long and uninteresting route but I thought it was grand.
For a start it was pretty much deserted, a real blessing considering what was to come. The views across to Y Lliwedd and into Cwm Tregalan were fabulous and we took an early lunch before we ascended to the summit.
The Rhydd Ddu path came in and the numbers increased as we crossed the narrow ridge of Bwlch Main. Then the Watkin path joins and the crowds and noise increase further.
Nothing prepares you for the summit of Snowdon in summer. It was awful. There must have been 300 people or more on the summit. You had to queue to reach the very top. We managed a quick photo and then found a relatively quiet spot for a sit.
There was hundreds more people on the Pyg track and the train was disgorging hundreds more. The views from the summit are awesome. Snowdon is a truly magnificent mountain. Ridges radiating in all directions enclosing deep corries and lakes. Truly deserving of the highest summit in Wales.
Trouble is it’s very accessible and massive draw for walkers. I’d expected it to be bad but it was much, much worse. I couldn’t wait to get away. We’d had some reasonable views but the summit was still slipping in and out of the clouds so no sense hanging around with the rest of the UK population or so it seemed
As we tried to get away there was an absolute stream of people on their way up still. It was like being in a shopping centre such was the commotion and noise. I took a little solace from the fact that large numbers of people looked very unhappy and ill-equipped, clearly not expecting the summit to be so cold and so far from the car. I know this probably makes me a very bad person. Staggers me how many people have no idea of how conditions can change between a car park and a summit 3500 feet up in the clouds and just how much effort it takes to get there. I felt a little sad about it all.
When I could take no more we took off from the Llanberis path and went over to the edge that overlooks the pass. The change was instant and dramatic. Suddenly the noise had gone and all was silent, the views majestic
Now we’d got the mountain back we left the crowds behind for good and headed down to Llyn Du’r Arddu. What a magnificent spot. The massive and well renowned climbing crag of Clogwyn Du’r Arddu towers above. The lake deep and blue even under a grey sky. And the thing is it was completely deserted. A sensational spot just half a mile from the throngs above and it was all ours. Mountains can be an odd experience sometimes.
I’d planned a swim in the lake but the skies were still grey and the air just too chilly. We pressed on for our return to Rhydd Ddu, picking up an excellent climbers path that traversed easily back around to the Snowdon Ranger path over Bwlch Cwm Brwynog.
Suddenly the skies cleared and the sun came out in force and we were treated to a wonderful sunny afternoon stroll back to the car. Again ignoring the main paths we found a way across the moors and picked up a fine path through the quarries back to Rhydd Ddu.
A little boggy in places and much further than it looked but the views were now sensational. Moel Hebog really catches the eye, looking much higher than its modest 782m and very surprising that I’ve never climbed it. I’ll be correcting that soon.
As earlier Mynydd Mawr and the Nantlle Ridge were also magnificent and the walk back under clear skies away from the crowds was a total pleasure. A staggering contrast to the crowds on the summit that darkened my heart so much.
Tired and weary – it was 12 mile and 4000 feet of ascent sort of day – we exchanged happy grins at the car. The choice of route had been a good one, minimising our exposure to the crowds to just over a mile.
We both agreed that any future visits to Snowdon should be out of season and preferably a weekday. The Snowdon Horsehoe still beckons for TJS, one of the UKs best mountaineering routes, just not in the summer holidays
Radio silence from the world of Surfnslide recently. Been busy at work and planning my winter skiing holiday. Also been planning our big Family trip to Australia next summer, 4 weeks in Queensland – very excited but having just booked the flights very financially traumatised! That means I haven’t had much time to blog so I’m further behind than I’ve ever been. The usual stuff to write-up about our trip to France in the summer and a few outings since. Posts will have to be high on photos and short on words, probably a blessing for readers. I haven’t actually been out much since I got back from France so hopefully I should be able to catch up eventually when the dark winter nights draw in. Depressing thought
Anyway this is a little post – well quite a long one actually of our annual gathering on the Lleyn Peninsula in North Wales in the first week of the summer holidays. I’m sure I’ve bored you before with what a cracking week this always is and why its such an important part of the year for all of us. If you have nothing better to do and want to read all that stuff then you can go back in time to previous trips on 2012 and 2011
Family Fun
This year we were first to arrive at the end of the hot spell in the summer (remember that!). We had a fine weekend all to ourselves, lazing on the beach, swimming and having BBQs by the tent (after a delayed start due to a puncture – in case anyone out there has a car with no spare but one of those strange repair kits, don’t bother, complete and total waste of time, just call the breakdown people. If you don’t have a spare and don’t have breakdown insurance – get some!)
Surfin’ Wales
Porth Towyn Beach, Lleyn Peninsula
In Deep Water
Summertime
BBQ Time
The first evening we took a post BBQ drive down to the headland at Mynydd Mawr to watch the sunset. You can drive to the top of the hill and its a fine viewpoint over Bardsey Island and back over the peninsula. The weather was still warm even at 10pm, a fine end to the day
Bardsey Island from Mynydd Mawr,
Sunset from Mynydd Mawr
Evening Sunshine on Mynydd Mawr
Coastguard Station, Mynydd Mawr,
I went home for a couple of days at work to pay for all this extravagance and returned when the rest of the gang showed up. More beach fun ensued with some nice warm weather for swimming. In one of the biggest shocks this blog has ever seen, both Beach Funsters went in the sea. Pigs do indeed have wings
Row, row, row your boat
TBF (2) – in the water!!
One of the afternoons when TBF took the kids to the circus, me, EWO and TJS went for a stroll around the headland
5.6 Miles
Unlike it’s Pembrokeshire and South West Cousins, the coast path round here is deserted. Strange as it’s just as dramatic and under a clear sky simply superb
Lleyn Peninsula from Mynydd Mawr
Mynydd Mawr from the Welsh Coastal Path
Porth Llanllawen
Mynydd Mawr, Welsh Coastal Path
We ambled at no particular pace, admired the views, stopped for a brew and chatted.
TJS & EWO
Lleyn Peninsula, Welsh Coastal Path
Arms Wide
We climbed the wonderfully named Mynydd Anelog, a hill stuck firmly in the last century, from which the views were truly awesome
Mynydd Mawrm from Mynydd Anelog
Lleyn Peninsula from Mynydd Anelog
We followed a series of quiet lanes and crossed to the south side of the peninsula where the views over the water to Bardsey were enchanting. On a warm summers day there is little better than a coastal wander next to an azure sea. The time simply flew by and we actually had to rush to get back to the campsite for tea even though we’d been out since 2pm and only walked 5 miles or so
Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island from Porth Felen
Evening on the Campsite
As is the tradition we took our usual stroll up the high point of Carn Fadryn. I’ve rambled on before about what a fine hill and view-point this is so I’ll let the pictures do the talking. If you want to read more check out the post from 2011
Carn Fadryn
Bracken Bashing
Bilberry Bashing
Summit Party
Summit gathering
Yr Eifl from Carn Fadryb
More days of beach fun under blue skies followed. Beach cricket is now the game of choice. Trying to play sports with energetic kids makes me feel very young and very old at the same time. I hadn’t realised I no longer know how to run!
Beach Cricket
Evening sun
Tides out!
Ladies Night
More high quality time spent consuming vast quantities of BBQ food. You can’t beat outdoor eating on a warm summers evening by the sea
Happy Home
Base Camp
We took a fancy to climb the hills near Nefyn as they looked rocky and interesting.
3.8 Miles
We scrambled up a couple of inclines to the quarries from where it was a couple of hundred feet to the summit. There was no path and it looked a little vegetated but how hard could it be?
Deep in the undergrowth
Deeper in the undergrowth
Answer, bloody hard! It was the hardest two hundred feet of mountain I’ve ever climbed. Waist deep heather, gorse and brambles, no path and loose rocks and boulders. In shorts! Took us over an hour to reach the top with several moments when we simply had no idea which way to go
Sanctuary
The summit was worth the effort though. Sensational views of the coast and The Rivals nearby. A brew was had to cheer the soul and ease the pain of severely scratched legs. If you can bear the pain it’s a worthwhile little mountain – but its wild – you have been warned
Nefyn from Gwylwyr
Finally at the summit
Yr Eifl from Gwylwyr
We wandered over the nearby hills (more gorse and bracken) and then back to Nefyn down a succession of green lanes (more nettles) before heading back to the campsite for another spell on the beach and another BBQ (Black Pudding sausage hot dogs – mmmmm!)
Carreglefain from Gwylwyr
Mynydd Nefyn and Carn Fadryn from Gwylwyr
Carreglefain
Another quality holiday with fine company and a smattering of walks
I spend alot of my time surfing the web looking for ideas on places to go, walking routes, travel ideas and tips to plan the perfect holiday or day out. (I'm a project manager I like to plan). I thought it was time to share my own experiences and contribute to the vast amounts in information that's already out there.
I'll also add in some gear and tech reviews and when something irks me I may even use this forum to have a rant - I do that pretty well I'm told.There are a few pages at the top that give a bit of background to what I like to get up to and what you can expect to see in my posts. I'm not exactly a creative writer but I hope some people will find my stuff useful or inpsiring or at least enjoy some of my photos.
surfnslide 