A sunny day forecast and time for al fresco eating. Taking breakfast stuff on a walk means an earlier start, more chance of a parking space and of course, eating outside is a pleasure.
One of favourite Beacons route was the choice with a perfect breakfast stop a few minutes walk from the car.
It was quite chilly when we set off, concerns that it might be a cold breakfast. Luckily that few minutes is very steeply up hill to warm you up.
This is a walk with plenty of waterfalls, this is one of the one’s on the Nant Bwrefwr (yes, you try and pronounce that one!)
Superb morning views as we arrived at our chosen spot.
Perfection – grassy seat (although I brought my own), sparkling stream, warm sunshine and sheltered from the wind.
Bacon and egg sandwich and a cuppa is a great way to start a hike.
Repast over it was time to climb the steep path on to the edges above the Caerfanell Valley.
Sadly we timed it badly, there was (shock) a running event on (there seems to be one every day in. summer) so we shared the path hundreds of sweaty athletes. I remember the days when taking to the hills was to relax and savour the scenery rather than a competition.
Luckily we only had to put up with the crowds for about 30 mins before we struck off on the Beacons Way. I’ve come to love the path that cuts the corner over towards Fan y Big. It can be soggy, but its quiet and has some oustanding views over the Heads of the Valleys and out to the Bristol Channel.
You arrive suddenly on the north facing escarpment and this fabulous view over the perfect U-shaped glacial valley of Cwm Oergwn.
The views back across to Fan y Big, Cribyn, Pen y Fan and Corn Du were also rather grand. We decided against the out and back to Fan y Big, choosing to create a time window for another long food and brew stop. The edge that heads east towards Waun Rydd and Carn Pica is one of my favourites, easy level strolling above a steep drop and spectacular views out into mid-Wales
We chose the equally fine edges to the south of Carn Pica for our break. Hardly anyone walks this part so we had it to ourselves save for a very pleasant couple and their gorgeous and very friendly greyhound called Biscuit who we met on the top.
I find cairns make fantastic foreground shots on a sunny day and I never resist the temptation to include them
This short photo reverie fortified me for the very steep descent down towards the Caerfanell waterfalls.
Looking up to that very steep descent.
And up to the edges we walked with the runners earlier in the day.
Caerfanell valley is stunning with lots of small falls.
TBF decided a swim was in order although in truth it wasn’t really deep enough. The sun had gone in so I took the role of official photographer.
The walk has a little sting in the tale, requiring a short and steep climb back up to the car. More waterfalls but they are hidden deep in the forest. One day I must try and bushwhack along the stream and take a closer look.
A fine view through the trees as we finished the walk. A classic, one of our favourites and all the better for the breakfast by the stream.
I’m doing well with efforts to keep the blog current and up to date. Here’s yesterday’s little excursion.
Despite being relatively pleasant at home, it was very much winter when we parked up by the waterfalls on the Nant Bwrefwr. They looked particularly fine after all the recent wet weather.
We had a couple of options but TJS hasn’t been to the Beacons for over a year and asked for his favourite walk, a circuit of the high edges around to Fan y Big. It’s a superb walk, a classic and no argument from me.
The forecast was mixed, sunshine and showers and we got the former on our way up the first and only climb of the day.
Just as well as its a brutal start, 800 feet straight up in about half a mile.
We needed to stop at the top as TJS is very much not hill fit after a term of lockdown restrictions and hard course work. As we did the showers began, first of heavy rain and then wet sleet.
It was wild and windy but we were below the cloud and I quite enjoy this sort of winter day. The shower only last about 30 minutes and in fact was the only significant rain that fell despite the dark and moody skies.
The walk along these edges always delivers and its a pretty much level path for a couple of miles with spectacular views out over the northern escarpments towards Brecon and beyond.
Pen y Fan summit was in the cloud all day but Cribyn appeared from time to time.
It wasn’t as wet as TJS and TBF mak it look in this photo although the wind was ferocious at times. Plenty of buffeting as the team at MWIS would say.
The walk along the ridge that leads to the summit of Fan y Big was superb with shafts of winter sunlight to light the way ahead.
Cribyn was catching the light beautifully.
It’s a superb little summit, not much higher than the surrounding moorland but with a precipitous edge overlooking the valley below. We stopped briefly and admired the views. Its an exposed and windy spot and not a place to linger in these conditions.
The storm clouds looked to be gathering and Cribyn was cloaked in cloud so we decided we’d had a decent enough leg stretch and headed back to the car (via the Roman Road and a lunch stop). We had a few very light showers and a rainbow to guide us home.
There are limitless walks around this part of the Beacons so I’m hoping we will still be allowed into Wales over the holidays to take advantage of whatever decent weather we get and fit in plenty of walks. TJS needs the exercise at the very least!
Seems like a long time ago that I wrote a post about a proper walk in the hills. A some distant point back in September me, TJS and TBF took a long walk around the Eastern edges of the Brecon Beacons. A route I did a couple of years back with TJS. You can read about that post here which has a reminder at the end of the post at just what a clumsy bugger I am and that I should never be allowed to use sharp objects.
The forecast was bland but dry and we set off under bright but grey skies
It’s a pretty steep climb in a couple of places that had us puffing hard. We walked a lot of miles on our city tour but it doesn’t keep you in shape for a proper mountain walk
At the top of Carn Pica we were in the cloud, a most unsatisfactory turn of events. As we crossed the plateau of Waun Rydd (on a spanking new path) the skies began to clear again. The walk along the edges up here are some of the finest in the UK, elevated with expansive and spacious views
We stopped for lunch and a cuppa and the weather steadily improved
When we set off again there was plentiful blue sky and it was turning into a very splendid autumn afternoon
The route is a round of the valley containing the Talybont Reservoir. The southern leg is across a wild and track-less moor that seems to see no people. I’d noticed how wet and muddy everything was on this walk. It’s normally dry at this time of year so either we’ve had a wet year all round or it must have rained ceaselessly while we were away on our travels. This section of the walk was especially soggy
More than compensated for by the marvellous views
Its and wonderful high level stroll/squelch across these hills although I’d forgotten just how far it was
It was late afternoon already and the car was at the far end of the reservoir in the photo below
We’d left the other Funster behind at home and were anxious not be home too late. More stops to admire the views were in order but we had to press on and enjoy them on the fly
The peak at the end of the ridge (on the right in the photo below) is Tor y Foel. Me and TJS climbed it last time we were up here but we were too late in the day this time. You can drive halfway up and it’s another one for my much touted but never to be written book about small hills
Instead we cut down through very dark and wet forests, very Mordor-like in their spookiness
When we emerged at the dam by the end of the reservoir it was a glorious evening, all blue sky and reflective water
A grand day out and a challenging long one for unfit hikers at over 12 miles.
One of those routes that seems obvious on the map and on the ground but seems to see no walkers or mentions in any of my guide books
We drive up the splendid valley containing said reservoir on many occasions to access what I consider to be the better side of the Brecon Beacons. I’ve had in my head an idea to circumnavigate it by a long walk taking in some of the Brecons eastern summits, returning over the expansive moorland to the south and finishing on the fine little hill of Tor y Foel. We attempted this walk in the winter but were turned back by day that promised sunshine and showers but delivered 3 hours of ceaseless rain.
Today was sunny and blue with a keen wind although a late-ish start had us walking at a brisk pace anyway to keep us warm. We made swift progress up the steep slopes of Twyn Du and onto Carn Pica
It was windy on top and decided on the longer walk around the fine and usually deserted edges of Craig y Fan, Gwalciau ‘r Cwm and Cwar y Gigfran (evocative names up here), rather than the direct route over Waun Rydd. The latter of those edges I’ve never walked before so it was good to tread some new ground. As expected they were deserted and the sense of space up here above the deep and broad valley of Caerfannel is immense
We paused briefly to look down on the famous wreckage of a WWII bomber but as we were above it decided to press on.
We turned south and headed along the edges of Craig Fan Las and Craif y Fan Du, one of my favourite stretches of upland in the UK. Busier here as its close to the main car park for the waterfalls but nothing like the main ridge of the Brecons. Pleasant company rather than crowded.
As the wind was still keen we dropped down to the river and found a stonking spot in the warm sun by Nant Bwrefwr for a long lunch and rest as we hadn’t really stopped since we left the car
Then it was onwards onto more new terrain. The slopes up onto the southern side of the valley don’t look all that inspiring from a distance. Lots of cleared coniferous plantations that are always an ugly scar and wide scarred paths.
Indeed the climb up was hard work and uninspiring, the paths badly scarred by trail bikes. These things are becoming a real threat to upland environments in south Wales and seem to be more numerous. Luckily today we only saw their aftermath rather than hear the irritating buzz and smell of fuel. It saddens me every time I see the damage they do. Some paths, like here are little more than 30 foot wide mudslides and will take years to recover if ever, assuming the National Park authority ever decide to do something about the problem
All that negativity ended as we reached the summit of Pant y Creigiau. I hadn’t known what to expect up here, possibley endless bog and tussocks. In fact it was a fantastic high level stroll across sheep nibbled grass with superb views across to the edges and valleys we’d walked on and above in the morning and to the limestone crags and quarries of Mynydd Llangynidr
All the while the reservoir glistened blue below us beckoning us on as we still had a long way to go. Over Bryiau Gleision the it suddenly narrows to a ridge where the views are exceedingly fetching. We found a perch high above the Dyffryn Crawnon valley for a rest in the sun and out of the wind. We’d had another long stretch and I was starting to feel the strain. I could have sat there for hours.
Time was pressing though and I had drag my sorry frame another few miles. We had the option to shorten the route and head straight down to the dam and miss out Tor y Foel this time. TJS looked crestfallen at this suggestion so he convinced me trudge on. Despite the harshness of the gravelled road that leads to the base of the hill it was a good decision. We made light work of the short climb to the top and it’s always good to finish a day on a summit, especially on a day as good as this. Another one for my small hills book 🙂
From there it was pretty much straight down to the car, brutally steep at the top to start with.
This part of the walk wasn’t on the maps I brought with me so I was guessing my way down. I spied what I thought might be a shortcut down the side of the forest and despite some tenuous brambled sections and some deep mud that covered my boots almost to the top we were down in matter of minutes. Across the dam and back to the car
So glad that what I thought would be a fine walk was even better than expected. I’ve never seen anyone walking on the second section which is surprising as it’s exceptionally fine and highly recommended.
A long walk at 14 miles (TJS longest and probably mine for a few years) but well worth the sunburn and aching knees at the end
Back up to date again. We had grand plans for the half term weekend. We were off to Pembrokeshire in the camper to see the Puffins on Skomer Island and some quality beach time at Marloes. However due to a bout of immense stupidity by me involving a kitchen knife and an avocado, I managed to sever a nerve in my finger, requiring some minor surgery to try to repair it. Considering that the cut was only 1 cm long (albeit deep enough to see the inner workings of my hand) I’m sure you’ll agree the dressing is rather impressive if a little disproportionate. Kind of ruled out a rough camping weekend
No idea what the rest of half term week will hold but we’ll be royally looked after by Mark and his family so hopefully some adventures to report on when I get back.
Some brief words on a little stroll we had in June. I’ve done this walk a couple of times, clockwise a couple of summer’s ago, anticlockwise last autumn. You can look at maps and lots of my wittering stream of written consciousness if you follow the links to the previous visits. You can see from those posts and the photos below that this is a little cracker of a walk.
Waterfalls on the Nant Bwrefwr
“Oh what a beautiful morning”
This was another clockwise journey with TJS and TBF. We took advantage of TJF staying at a friends for an early start. As a special treat I cooked me and TJS a bacon sandwich halfway up the hill by the stream. It was a lovely spot and great start to the day
Nant Bwrefwr
Still time for a lesson learned though. Even with the little pot stand the heat given off by a Jetboil stove is ferocious. Enough to warp a Trangia frying pan, burn off its non-stick coating and melt the end of my daughter’s pink spork – she was not amused. Worth it for a cooked breakfast under a clear blue sky 🙂
Breakfast by the Nant Bwrefwr
We had to get back for a Scouts event for D so it was a brisk walk from there. It was a perfect day for walking, clear skies, abundant sunshine and a brisk wind to keep us cool
TBF on Craig-y-Fan Ddu
Caerfanell valley & Craig-y-Fan Ddu
The walk along the long edge above the Caerfanell Valley was simply superb
Caerfanell valley & Craig-y-Fan Ddu
Pen y Fan, Corn Du & Cribyn
The views across to the high summits of the Brecons and north to the perfect northern u-shaped valleys was as good as I can remember
North from Waun Rydd
Happy Walkers
Even the boggy bits were dry 🙂
Pen y Fan, Corn Du and Cribyn from Waun Rydd
Allt Llwyd, Sugar Loaf and Talybont Reservoir
As the route switches from the edges on both sides of the ridge so the views and aspect changes to great effect. The sense of height and space from these edges is something to behold. I love it up here
Edge from Gwalciau’r Cwm to Craig-y-Fan
As ever despite the perfect weather and the fact it was Saturday we saw hardly anyone. Pen y Fan would we mobbed on a day like this
Gwalciau’r Cwm from Waun yr Gorlan
The Caerfanell river and it’s waterfalls were as special as ever. Had we not been in a bit of a hurry I could have sat by the banks for hours.
Caerfanell Waterfalls
Delicately poised
Caerfanell Waterfalls
At the bottom of the falls there were several families playing in the river with some light gorge scrambling. Something to remember when I need some water based fun in the summer. The usual sting in the tail of this walk is the steep climb through the trees back up to the car. It was pretty hot by then and we were all suffering a little from the brisk pace. This waterfall with its carpet of bluebells gave us a fitting finale to the walk
Bluebells by the waterfalls
Short and sweet but I’m now only 2 weekends behind in my posts. A couple of great backpacking trips to write-up. Shame I’m off to Wales for a week and then France for 3 weeks. Looks like I’ll be writing in the past for a couple of months yet 🙂
This is one of my favourite walks in the Brecon Beacons. Slightly away from the main hotspots but with a sense of spaciousness and air from the long walks along the edges. Apart from one very short steep section in the middle (or start depending on which way round you walk it) the route is easy and mostly level and ideal for families looking to introduce the younger ones to more mountainous terrain.
Allt Llwyd, Sugar Loaf beyond
It was just me and D today, TBF having been compelled to take L to the Remembrance service with her Brownie pack at our local church. We’d debated between this route and Pen-y-Fan from the south but as we approached Brecon under clear skies, Pen-y-Fan itself was smothered in cloud so we defaulted to this alternative. I’ve done this walk before last year so knew that D would really enjoy it as would I. The parking area was absolutely crammed with cars perched in every available spot. We returned to the bottom of the road to start the walk there, all it added was a short walk from the lower car park to the waterfalls and avoids having to finish the walk with a steep climb to the original start point. I’ve been lazy again with the route map so just use your imagination to create the extra little bit to the car park just south of the marked route!
6.5 miles, 1,600 feet of ascent
The walk up through the trees dappled with autumn sunshine was a pleasure with the sound of the waterfalls on the Caerfanell River below us.
Apporoaching Caerfanell Waterfalls
There was a path lower down on the opposite bank that keeps to the riverbank so I’d follow that in future. We reached the bottom of the steep climb to where we should have parked, with more waterfalls visible on the much smaller Nant Bwrefwr through the trees. We decided to take a look at the big waterfall on the Caerfanell before we headed up.
Caerfanell Waterfalls
Caerfanell Waterfalls
It’s an impressive one and considering the number of cars about, deserted. We managed to get right up close on very slippery rocks to admire the heavy flow over the edge. I do like a good waterfall, probably due my propensity to climbing them in a wetsuit! As we returned it became obvious that doing the original route in reverse was a much better plan.
Below Caerfanell waterfalls
It would give a much different flavour than when I’d walked it the other direction with the added bonus of being in the sun as we walked up the Caerfanell valley. With the low sun we would have been completely in the shade later in the day. Had we found a space in the car park at the top this would not have occurred to me. Serendipity is a wonderful thing.
The walk up the valley was splendid with autumnal colours and waterfalls every step of the way.
Caerfanell Valley
Caerfanell Valley
As is the way of things this year, every step was wet and muddy but I’d gone with lightweight boots rather than trail shoes for a change. As the valley opens out there is a short climb up on to the open grassland of Waun y Gorlan with all the edges to be traversed later in the day towering above us, beautifully lit by the low sun.
Craig-y-Fan Ddu
Gwalciau’r Cwm from Waun yr Gorlan
Facing us was the savagely steep climb up the nose of Gwalciau’r Cwm (I’d remembered it’s steepness in descent the last time). D found this grassy climb hard-going and seemed a little off the pace most of the day – a tough week a school he told me. Young people today – no staying power.
D on the steep climb up Gwalciau’r Cwm
Taking a breather
It’s a mercifully short climb; only about 500 feet and the views from the top are breathtaking.
D on Gwalciau’r Cwm summit
From there the route is just a joy. A thin a little used path takes you around a succession of edges with huge open spaces below you as you progress towards Carn Pica.
Edge from Gwalciau’r Cwm to Craig-y-Fan
D looking back to Gwalciau’r Cwm
Halfway along we found a little sheltered spot where the ridge from Allt Llwyd joins and took lunch in the sunshine. The views out south and east were sublime. The sugar loaf held the attention and the Black Mountains looked dark and forbidding, smothered in dark clouds. To the west we could make out Swansea Bay and the distant outline of the Gower with the Mendips, Quantock and Exmoor hills faintly visible on the horizon. North looked less than promising however with dark clouds massing and Pen-y-Fan still brooding in misty clouds.
Allt Llwyd, Sugar Loaf and Talybont Reservoir
We pressed on along Craig-y-Fan to the massive and well-constructed cairn on Carn Pica.
Craig-y-Fan
Carn Pica
We’d now hit the wind and it was too cold to linger so we continued snaking around the boggier bits on thin paths and a detour to the un-named summit above Waun Rydd.
Waun Rydd looking to the Black Mountains
D on Waun Rydd
The weather had changed and it was now grey and overcast as we turned and headed along the edge of Graig Fan Las. It’s one of the highlights but with the dark clouds it took on a more threatening air and the sunny skies of earlier had gone.
Caerfanell valley & Craig-y-Fan Ddu
It’s still a terrific section with airy drops into the Caerfanell valley below. We met numerous people on our way up all asking directions to the cairn that marks the spot of an air crash from years earlier on the opposite side of the valley. Perhaps some of the crowds were to pay respects as this was Remembrance Sunday.
Upper reaches of the Caerfanell valley
Craig-y-Fan Ddu
We carried on, progressing easily and quickly along Craig-Fan Ddu and the steep descent to the waterfalls on the Nant Bwrefwr. As we approached the car park the sun came out again and the skies began to clear giving us a warming glow before we plunged into the forest.
Setting sun over Nant Bwrefwr
Craig-y-Fan Ddu & Nant Bwrefwr
All that remained was a steep descent, slipping and sliding over numerous fallen trees with glimpses of yet more waterfalls before arriving back at the car, satisfied with a fie walk. Waterfalls and Edges is a pretty good combination
I spend alot of my time surfing the web looking for ideas on places to go, walking routes, travel ideas and tips to plan the perfect holiday or day out. (I'm a project manager I like to plan). I thought it was time to share my own experiences and contribute to the vast amounts in information that's already out there.
I'll also add in some gear and tech reviews and when something irks me I may even use this forum to have a rant - I do that pretty well I'm told.There are a few pages at the top that give a bit of background to what I like to get up to and what you can expect to see in my posts. I'm not exactly a creative writer but I hope some people will find my stuff useful or inpsiring or at least enjoy some of my photos.
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