The Saturday looked like the best day of the weekend so we headed out early for an alfresco breakfast by the van and then a long walk.
As he doesn’t get to walk much in south Wales we gave the Prof the choice and he picked Fforest Fawr.
Its become a firm favourite, what it lacks in dramatic edges it more than makes up for with wild lonely valleys and summits that see very few visitors.
Me and TBF did a long and satisfying walk around these hills last summer and felt a repeat was well worth our time.
The Prof on the first summit of Fan Llia
Small quarries on the summit of Fan Dringarth – these would make a fine spot for a wild camp with views across to Pen y Fan and Corn Du
Heading across the very soggy valley en route to the road and the climb to Fan Nedd.
The views down the Senni Valley from up here are joyous.
The climb up to Fan Nedd is the only really steep climb of the day. We had lunch near the top before moving on.
Looking back to Fan Nedd
The highest point in the range is Fan Gyhirych (tricky one to pronounce).
There are some wide bulldozed tracks that most people seem to follow but those in the know follow the faint grassy path that follows the perfect curve of the east face.
I love this part of the walk.
The path continues all the ay along the east edge and a short hop across the end of the plateau like summit brings you over to a similar and equally fine path along the west edge.
Grand views across to the Black Mountain.
The rest of the day became a little overcast so I seem not to have taken any more photos other than this one of the Maen Madoc standing stone near the end. Its a fine walk back through Limestone country (we stopped off for a second lunch by a cave entrance) but you’ll have to check out my previous post of this route for some photos of that part. Still a fine if long day at around 14 miles.
After returning from my ski trip I was at leisure on my own at home and took a trip out in the van to the Brecon Beacons.
Even just for a day out its great to park up and cook breakfast in warm comfort before heading out to the hills.
A gloomy start to the day but with some hope that maybe it might clear away from the summits.
Its still a grand promenade along the edges to the south of Corn Du. The crowds began to gather as I approached the twin main summits. The usual collection of poorly equipped and dressed people and on this occasion two different parties asking me if this was Pen y Fan when I was stood on Corn Du. I set them straight. Another couple spent at least 20 mins wandering about on Pen y Fan looking for their way down without seeming to have a clue which was the right way or even where their car was! They did have a map and compass but it didn’t seem to be helping them much.
I was able to watch this unfold as I waited around in the vain hope the clouds might clear and I’d get some spectacular views. Whilst it tried very hard to clear and there were glimpses of clear blue sky but this was as good as it got and then, only for a couple of seconds.
When I decided I’d been daft enough sitting around in the cold foggy wind for too long I headed down. Once below the clouds scudding over the summit the views did improve.
And the blue sky did appear – just not above me.
As luck would have it, Cribyn is a brutally steep climb that warmed me up after the chills on Pen y Fan.
As I wandered away down the ridge (the summit was also busy), I was treated to my first proper sunshine of the day, looking back towards the summit.
The perfect glacial valley of Cwm Cwnwyn.
After a well earned lunch stop I was quickly up onto Fan y Big.
A great viewpoint to admire the mass of Cribyn and its edge.
The ridge of Cefn Cyff.
These are the edges that run eastwards from Fan y Big and one of my favourite stretches in the National Park.
The wild valley of Cwm Oergwm.
Looking back to the high summits, Pen y Fan still re-assuringly cloud capped, justifying my decision not to hang around.
I cut across the Beacons Way to another superb edge, Craig y Fan Ddu above the deep Caerfanell valley.
By this point, the clouds had really begun to clear and there was more abundant blue sky and sunshine.
The views from this edge are fantastic, another of my favourite stretches of path and much quieter than the main routes in the Beacons.
Reluctantly I headed back down as the sun began to sink and the light fade.
Time for some arty sun/tree shots.
And a brief sit down by the stream to pause for thought and then head back to the van for a post walk cuppa in comfort.
When you need a walk in south Wales, away from the crowds, Fforest Fawr is the place to go. Empty car parks, empty hills and wide grassy summits for easy strolling on a summer Saturday.
I reckon I’d found a nice long circuit from the small and pretty parking area at the base of Fan Llia and Fan Nedd and we set off along the Beacons Way on a day tailor made for walking, warm and with a pleasant cooling breeze.
We were soon gaining height and onto the summit of Fan Llia.
A beautiful day with only ourselves and few runners in an event for company.
Looking across top Pen y Fan and Corn Du.
Its never too early for a food and brew stop (even if I had forgotten the milk).
Looking at the next summit Fan Nedd, the only really steep climb of the day.
Rewarded for the effort with fine views of the Afon Senni valley.
Looking back to Fan Nedd.
The perfect curves on the east face of Fan Gyhirych. Still struggling with the correct pronunciation of this one!
We stopped for another long lunch break to enjoy the views.
The summit is a featureless expanse of grass and bog but the edges that surround it are wonderful and worthy of the effort to follow them around.
Looking down to the Cray reservoir.
And out to the Black Mountain.
Heading south the scenery changes as you enter Limestone country. All sink holes and caves (and a fab little wild camp spot earmarked for another day).
We took a succession of small tracks and paths heading for the Beacons Way, coming across an oddly dressed group of cavers in the middle of nowhere.
The weather was wonderfully clear, setting off the green lawns and white limestone outcrops to perfection.
It was turning into quite a long walk with some serious miles to cover and a couple of valleys to walk through to reach the car. On a day like this just a delight.
A final climb back up onto Sarn Helen, an old Roman Road and we were heading back to the car, over 13 footsore and happy miles in the bank.
Another day when we should have been out earlier and spent more time over the walk but another day when the weather was much better than the forecast. Looking for somewhere we hadn’t been for a while we plumped for a walk through the Craig y Cilau Nature Reserve.
Not the easiest place to get to. Think very narrow and very steep roads although there is a surprisngly large car park up there.
Despite a forecast for limited sunshine and lots of showers, it was clear and sunny when we parked up.
The Sugar loaf looks especially grand from here.
We set out initially to explore the old quarry workings and their collection of old spoil heaps (at least that’s what I assume they are) that have created a little range of hills and ridges, hence the post title.
A panorama that shows the wonderful breadth of view from up here (click to enlarge)
Some of these little mountains have pretty narrow ridges on them and the dense collection I find great fun and very alluring.
They make very good photo subjects.
With cracking views across the Usk Valley to the Black Mountains.
The route then follows a disused tramway around into the more natural cliffs of Craig y Cilau.
The cliffs are full of small caves and potholes which would be fun to explore on a warm and dry day.
We dropped down on a lower path (rather than my previous attempt to stay high up that ended in undergrowth, brambles and nettles!) and had a brief stop by this little clear stream and surrounding meadow.
From there its a short climb up and the return leg along the top of the edges.
The two paths only a few hundred feet apart but with a completely different feel.
As the edges merge into the somewhat bleak moorland behind you drop back down and come out above the mini mountain range.
Looking even more impressive from above and with the sun casting shadows.
Next time I come up here I intend to follow the edges in the other direction as they look equally interesting.
For today we were happy with our lot and headed back to the car. A Grand Half day Out!
Moving into the Bank Holiday Weekend the weather was still stuck in the same pattern of gloomy mornings and sunny afternoons. We took our chances, me and TBF, that the morning gloom would clear again and headed off for a walk in a lesser know corner of the Beacons.
Parking up in Llangynidr I was taking TBF on a walk I did early in 2020 before all this COVID madness arrived. We struck out across the fields heading for a route that encircles the lonely valley of Dyffryn Crawnon. By now the skies had completely cleared and a blue sky day had arrived.
Views back to the Black Mountains.
And Tor y Foel, our target for later in the day.
Reaching the Access Land the route opens out onto an area capped with limestone outcrops. I picked the higher path this time hoping to avoid the worst of the bracken, a good call.
The main Beacons summits were still enveloped in cloud.
I have a fondness for walking in limestone country. The green grassy paths are always so inviting and easy to walk on.
Time for first lunch in a sheltered hollow (it was a windy day).
Before continuing along the tops of the small edges, a delightful and carefree stroll.
Tor y Foel was in our sights all day with its changing perspective as we circled towards it.
TBF enjoying the sunshine.
The last time I did this walk I was on a mission to bag a missing Nuttall at the back of the huge quarries. Rather than waste that effort again (its not the most inspiring summit) we chose a path that looked more interesting. One of the old tramways that traverses right around the Dyffryn Crawnon valley. The views were sensational. On the first stretch I had thought that maybe it would make a fine cycle route. However as we went on the path became narrower and rockier, in places quite precarious. No place for a bike but a really superb walking route.
A Peacock Butterfly posed for me to take a picture.
We joined up with Beacons Way path towards Tor y Foel.
The Beacons, now free of cloud, overlooking the Tal y Bont Reservoir.
The short steep climb had us on top of Tor y Foel in no time.
It was time for second lunch. An odd day weather-wise. Extremely windy and quite chilly in the open but when we found a sheltered spot it was far too hot! We had to scout for the perfect spot with just enough breeze to keep us cool.
It’s a solo outlier from the main summits and its isolated position makes it a very fine view point.
It’s a long and steep drop all the way back down to Llangynidr. This tree was sporting some gorgeous red berries but the photo really doesn’t do it justice.
We crossed the Monmouthshire and Brecon canal at the bottom. We had hoped to try and reach the River Usk for a swim. However the path was completely impassable and overgrown so we gave up on the idea and thought a beer in the garden would be ample compensation.
A final stretch of canal walking back to the car to end a fine day out. It’s a really good and until you reach Tor y Foel, largely deserted, only seeing a couple of people up to that point.
While I’ve been enjoying the life of Riley and not working I’ve been grabbing every opportunity to hike the mountains and enjoy our newly restored freedoms. As TBF no longer works on Friday’s we had plans to use those days to good effect. A glorious forecast a couple of Friday’s back gave us our first chance to test the plan with a trip into the Brecon Beacons.
The classic round from the South seemed in order and we were away early as its busy and popular even on a sunny weekday.
All going to plan until we arrived to find the local forestry operations had decided to close not one, not two but ALL THREE of the car parks in the area. No warning on the approach roads, just at the car park entrances. In addition they deemed it necessary to close most of the forestry roads AND the Taff Trail. The only work going on was in the top car park which I guess was fair enough to close that one but there was no reason to close the others.
We got lucky and managed to grab the last space where the Taff Trail leaves the road but even then we warned not to walk it. We decided to hell with all that and just walked in anyway (there were no obstructions, danger or machinery in operation and nothing more than what we all walk past hundreds of times).
All dressed up in “Health and Safety” terms but the truth is they were just too lazy to have managed plan in place and only close off those areas they were actually working in, much easier to close everything just in case. This was a Friday and with another sunny day forecast for the Saturday I dread to think of the chaos if they didn’t open the car parks the next day. Cue cars parked on verges, in passing places and lots of traffic problems. Again, much like my thoughts from the previous day, how is this allowed to happen. These car parks have been effectively closed and off limits due to COVID for several months yet they wait until the rules are relaxed and the weather improves before they close off one of the busiest and most popular areas of the National Park. Sigh!
Anyway, nothing better than a stunning walk under blue skies to calm frayed and angry nerves.
This time we decided on the route the opposite way round to normal and headed up the thin paths up to Fan y Big, views opening up as we climbed.
Much like the day before it was warm in the sun but there was an increasingly strong NE breeze blowing that made choosing stops a very selective process.
It was a little hazier than the day before with more in the way of cirrus clouds but still stunning.
The classic view of Cribyn, Pen y Fan and Corn Du from Fan y Big
TBF posing on the overhanging rock on Fan y Big.
Cribyn from “The Gap”
Cribyn Summit Ridge.
TBF admires the views from the summit.
Lunch time was proving a challenge as the wind seemed to search us out wherever we sat.
There is a very prominent level grass shelf halfway down Cribyn towards Pen y Fan where I’ve often thought about a wild camp. I’m told its well known and referred to as “Dai’s Terrace”. Just under the cliffs of Cribyn we managed to find a sheltered spot although not a spot to drop anything!
I’m not normally in this part of the route until later in the day but this time we were early enough such that the NE face of Pen y Fan was lit up by the sun.
Looking back to Cribyn, the terrace where we had lunch clearly visible about 2/3 the way up.
The climb up Pen y Fan is long and steep. I always brighten it by following the extreme edge away from the main path that gives superb views over the face.
Looking back over our route so far.
The long ridge from the car park to the north.
As it was Friday both Pen y Fan and Corn Du were relatively quiet. Had this been a weekend its not uncommon to see over a hundred people on the summit and a constant stream of people heading up from the Storey Arms.
Corn Du from Pen y Fan.
And the reverse fixture.
Looking down to Llyn Cwm LLwch, a popular wild swim with a mermaid legend to boot. I’ve not walked that route for many a year.
Looking back to the twin crowing summits of the Beacons.
As soon as you head down the long edge above the Neuadd Reservoirs (or what’s left of them), you lose the crowds.
It’s a stunning walk but the wind had become ferocious by now and I was struggling to find any shelter for afternoon tea.
I figured the steep path that runs straight down to the valley bottom would afford some shelter from the forest.
An so it proved. We could hear the wind roaring through the trees but a ground level it was calm and very warm in the sun.
I mentioned the reservoirs before. There used to be two but both have been empty of water for many years. The smaller lower one has now been completely drained and the dam removed. This is all that remains. The dam is still in place for the upper one but I have no idea if they will remove that or whether it will ever be re-filled.
All that was left was to repeat our highly dangerous and risky walk back past the very small piles of logs next to a 20m wide open track to end a day that started with annoyed frustration but delivered a superb day out in some long missed mountains.
I’m doing well with efforts to keep the blog current and up to date. Here’s yesterday’s little excursion.
Despite being relatively pleasant at home, it was very much winter when we parked up by the waterfalls on the Nant Bwrefwr. They looked particularly fine after all the recent wet weather.
We had a couple of options but TJS hasn’t been to the Beacons for over a year and asked for his favourite walk, a circuit of the high edges around to Fan y Big. It’s a superb walk, a classic and no argument from me.
The forecast was mixed, sunshine and showers and we got the former on our way up the first and only climb of the day.
Just as well as its a brutal start, 800 feet straight up in about half a mile.
We needed to stop at the top as TJS is very much not hill fit after a term of lockdown restrictions and hard course work. As we did the showers began, first of heavy rain and then wet sleet.
It was wild and windy but we were below the cloud and I quite enjoy this sort of winter day. The shower only last about 30 minutes and in fact was the only significant rain that fell despite the dark and moody skies.
The walk along these edges always delivers and its a pretty much level path for a couple of miles with spectacular views out over the northern escarpments towards Brecon and beyond.
Pen y Fan summit was in the cloud all day but Cribyn appeared from time to time.
It wasn’t as wet as TJS and TBF mak it look in this photo although the wind was ferocious at times. Plenty of buffeting as the team at MWIS would say.
The walk along the ridge that leads to the summit of Fan y Big was superb with shafts of winter sunlight to light the way ahead.
Cribyn was catching the light beautifully.
It’s a superb little summit, not much higher than the surrounding moorland but with a precipitous edge overlooking the valley below. We stopped briefly and admired the views. Its an exposed and windy spot and not a place to linger in these conditions.
The storm clouds looked to be gathering and Cribyn was cloaked in cloud so we decided we’d had a decent enough leg stretch and headed back to the car (via the Roman Road and a lunch stop). We had a few very light showers and a rainbow to guide us home.
There are limitless walks around this part of the Beacons so I’m hoping we will still be allowed into Wales over the holidays to take advantage of whatever decent weather we get and fit in plenty of walks. TJS needs the exercise at the very least!
Another weekend and much better weather. Cool and breezy with showers normally delivers some great views, cloud effects and sunny spells so it was off to the Brecon Beacons (before talk of more lockdowns might prevent us). Keen to stay away from the crowds on the central part of the range we headed for the peaks of Fforest Fawr just to the east. Named after an old hunting forest, the trees have long since gone.
The route starts with a long traverse across the base of the cliffs of Craig Cerrig Gleisiad.
A fine start to the day with grand views towards Brecon.
And over to the central peaks of the Beacons, here looking moody and magnificent.
Turning back south the views over the pastures and hills of mid-Wales open up
And back towards Herefordshire, Shropshire and the Black Mountains.
The threat of showers seemed to be diminishing and it was turning into a rather gorgeous sunny day.
On to the summit of Fan Frynach.
We stopped for an early lunch (for TBF mainly, I’d had a big breakfast)
Cracking views and hardly anyone about. Perfect peace and quiet. Until……
The new plague of the mountains – trail bikes – arrived. Around ten of the buggers noisily buzzing their way around the hills, churning up paths, and stinking the place out with fumes. We took a narrower path to keep a bit of distance. They were halted by a locked gate. We were close enough to hear their discussion, seriously considering taking the gate off its hinges so they could get through! That’s the senseless and selfish attitude they have. Fortunately they seemed to think better of it and returned the way they had come. These things are becoming a real problem in South Wales such that it’s rare to take a walk down here without them these days. Not sure what can be done if anything. I head to the hills to escape from the noise and fumes of everyday life. It saddens and angers me in equal measure.
Let’s get back to enjoying the walk. Onwards and across a fairly soggy stretch towards the highest summit in Fforest Fawr, Fan Fawr.
It’s a steep but short off piste bash up to the top but the views were superb with abundant blue sky and clear air that comes with showery weather.
Looking across to the Black Mountain.
And Corn Du.
We found a nice sheltered spot for second lunch and a brew, tucked under the edge near the summit. Another stop somewhat spoiled as the trail bikes returned.
A very steep drop down to Storey Arms. Steep enough for me to slip over and realise the easiest way down was a bum-slide!
To return to the car involves a very quiet and pleasant stroll along the Taff trail and then a steep climb back up to the road. As we crossed the river we were treated to a gorgeous clear patch of blue sky and sunshine.
It made the final uphill push a little more bearable
The autumn colours really starting to put on a show.
And I’m always a fan of an autumn tree silhouette shot.
After my last post about hill lists time for a report based on its inspiration. I was missing just one Nuttall from South Wales so time to bag it. The Forecast wasn’t much better than the dreadful day above Cwmbran the day before but I woke to blue skies so I headed out.
Parking up in Llangynidr things were much better than yesterday. Abundant blue skies and even a hint of snow high up. Normally a positive but not when you weren’t expecting it and had trail shoes on! The views through the village and out in the fields were gorgeous if a little chilly in a cold wind.
My planned route was a long circuit around the Dyffryn Crawnon Valley to pick up my missing Nuttall of Cefn Yr Ystrad, a high point in the middle of nowhere just south of the Beacons.
The walk up through the fields to the access land was rather pleasant and less muddy than I’d thought.
Looking back towards the Black Mountains.
It was a long steady climb through the bracken until I reached the grassier slopes of the limestone plateau. It was great walking here on cropped grassy paths and a fine spot for a wild camp.
As I reached the quarry road a snow shower hit me, quite a nasty one. Not sure on the official duration of a “shower” but this one lasted about two hours!
I enjoy walking through quarry landscapes. The have lots of false edges, ridges and deep holes with lakes. This one came out of nowhere as I thought I was heading into the hills behind I crested a slope to find it. Took quite a walk to get around it.
Distant blue skies while it continued snowing on me.
The benefit of OS Maps on my phone came to the fore when looking for the summit in the mist and snow. Its a fairly vague expanse of small knolls and bumps and pretty sure I’d never have found it without the software such is the confusing terrain created by the quarries. Not the most inspiring summit but it was nice to climb it in winter conditions.
Continuing my route took quite a walk to get safely around the quarries. As I dropped around the back to the path it stopped snowing and the sun came out.
Nothing better than walking in a snowy landscape in the sunshine although it was bitterly cold.
Heading back down the other side of the valley, the Talybont reservoir came into view. I needed to stop for a late lunch but it windy and pretty wet everywhere. Lunch stops were not forthcoming.
Still, the views were magnificent.
Eventually I found a dryish and sheltered spot for a sit down although it was raining. Just as I thought better of it, it stopped and the sun came out again.
The views were sensational. Gorgeous browns of the bracken and the white caps on the Brecon Beacons.
I’d planned on finishing off the route with the hill of Tor y Foel but it was getting late and I was pretty knackered (drawing in the route I discovered it was 16 miles!)
I headed off down the Beacons Way back to Llangynidr.
Some nice sunny views along the valley but the path was a sloppy mess. As soon as I hit the road I decided I’d had enough mud for one day and followed the road back to village and the car.
After the previous day’s soaking this was a superb day. A new hill, some exploration of wild and weird terrain and a real feeling of winter.
Finally, clear blue skies, sunshine and frost! Well back in late January anyway.
A chance to head to the mountains for a proper day of winter walking in the Brecon Beacons. I thought I’d set off early enough for a spot in the car park in the Neuadd Valley but apparently not. I had to park on the lower car park and rather than walk along the road I followed what I hoped was a nice forest track through the woods. The views were great but the track was, like every track and path this winter, a slick mess of mud, bog and water. Again I was glad of waterproof socks – they really have been essential this winter.
Back on the steep climb to the edge of Graig Fan Ddu, water was replaced by ice and the rocky steps were a little slippery but fast progress was made despite avoiding a guy who thought it would be a good idea to cycle down an icy, rocky staircase with lots of people on it.
The views opened out and all was glorious. With the steep section done its a wonderful high level stroll on the edges towards the high summits.
I love the section where it “narrows” (these things are relative in South Wales) on the ridge of Craig Gwaun Taf.
Approaching Corn Du and Pen y Fan the crowds from the Storey Arms started to mass. Something you have to get used to up here on a sunny day.
There was a light dusting of snow on Corn Du lending the mountains more of a wintery feel and setting off the views to even better effect.
Looking back the way I’d come.
On Pen y Fan I began to realise why the car park was full. There was yet another challenge walk of some kind in progress. I have to say I really don’t get the recent obsession with these things. To me, the mountains are there to be savoured and enjoyed, an escape from the pressures of life and work.
It seems that these walks simply replace one kind of stress with another. Looking at all these people climbing to the summit, almost every one looked unhappy and simply trudging on, not stopping on the summit to enjoy the panorama on a wonderful day. You hear increasing stories of problems both on the walk and around the start/end points. People not understanding the rigours and discipline required to undertake these walks and how to thrive and survive. And they fill up my car park spot! 🙂
I also noted the route they were taking wasn’t going over Cribyn. Another failing of such walks is they often miss the best bits. Cribyn is one of the highlights of the Brecon Beacons and a far better summit than Pen y Fan. Its just not the highest point you see. Their loss and my gain as there was only a handful of people on the summit which I chose for a long stop and a brew.
It was such a fine day that it was an easy decision to climb Fan y Big as well. Another high quality summit that sees a a fraction of the people that Pen y Fan does.
The wander along its southern ridge in winter is a delight as the low angle picks out the features and small patches of water.
The classic view along the northern escarpment of the Beacons.
The continuation of that escarpment is one of the best sections but I was running short on time so I cut the corner off back towards the edge of Craig y Fan Ddu.
Its a soggy section but there is small rocky outcrop in the middle with super views to the South. Time for another sit down and take in the late afternoon ambience.
Edges with deep valleys beneath is the order of the day in the Beacons and swapping north for south gives another perspective. This edge and valley of Caerfanell is one of my favourites as well.
This section of path perched above a steep drop is sensational and on this late evening a simple joy.
Its a steep drop down to the road and I thought I’d save myself a bit of that by cutting the corner off across to the road.
Its a horrid, lumpy and soggy path so I have no idea why I did it again. It was worse than before, even wetter and with the sun so low that my head was staring straight into it while my feet were in dark shadow. I lurched and cursed my way back to the road. Thank goodness it saved me 3-4 minutes of walking!
A magnificent day and so good to finally see and feel something of a winter vibe.
I spend alot of my time surfing the web looking for ideas on places to go, walking routes, travel ideas and tips to plan the perfect holiday or day out. (I'm a project manager I like to plan). I thought it was time to share my own experiences and contribute to the vast amounts in information that's already out there.
I'll also add in some gear and tech reviews and when something irks me I may even use this forum to have a rant - I do that pretty well I'm told.There are a few pages at the top that give a bit of background to what I like to get up to and what you can expect to see in my posts. I'm not exactly a creative writer but I hope some people will find my stuff useful or inpsiring or at least enjoy some of my photos.
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