Deal or no Deal. It was time to visit the supermarket to get the shopping in. I traded this unenviable holiday task for a chance to go for a solo walk. Plan was to head out early, complete the walk before the day got too hot, do the shopping and be back at the house for lunch and a lazy afternoon by the pool. Up before 6am and walking by 7am in the first of daylight as the sun came up. Plan sorted.
The map showed a ridge on the frontier between France and Spain above the town of Ceret, up at around 1400m. The high-point is the Roc de France but its crowned by a rather ugly TV mast so I picked the nearby Pic de les Salines. Main advantage was being able to park up at 1000m at the Col de Fontfreda leaving a short climb to the summit. As I set off the sun was just peeking over the horizon and I had the entire route to myself.
I’m a lazy git by nature and early starts are not big in my repertoire but when you do make the effort there is nothing better than watching the sun come up and strolling through a broad-leafed sun-dappled forest at dawn. The path was easy to follow and for France relatively clear of overgrowth!
As I climbed the trees thinned revealing glimpses of the mountains of the Canigou massif, the coastal Alberes mountains and the northern hills of Spain across the Costa Brava.
I was on the summit in little over an hour and had the place to myself. The plan to be out before it got too hot backfired a little as it was actually pretty cool on the summit. I wandered about taking in the clear morning views, snapping photos and feeling pretty damn fine if a little chilly. The views from up here were superb. The Med on one side and the Pyrenees on the other
I found a sheltered rock and sat down for an hours contemplative reflection with a cuppa and some fresh croissants and fruit bought from the bakery that morning. Say what you like about the French but boy do they know how to bake bread and pastries.
I toyed with idea of trying to pick a route to the Roc de France but there wasn’t a path marked up from the col (in France you take your chances as it is, with marked paths. I could have made a round trip from the col but that would have meant a return through dark sunless forests, ideal at the end of a hot day but in the warm morning I just chose to replace my steps back down the ridge to my car.
There were now several people on their way up so I felt pretty smug at my decision for an early start and in getting a deserted summit stay. I was back at the car by 10am my fix for walking satisfied
The shopping? I didn’t take any photos figuring that no-one who reads my blog would be much interested but I can say that the cooked chicken and roast potatoes for lunch was splendid 🙂
When we decided on Roussillon and the Pyrenees Orientales for our holiday I was taken with the idea of climbing a proper mountain. In Provence where we’ve stayed the last couple of years the scenery is magnificent but the walking is a little limited. I did manage a rather splendid walk along one of the ridges above the Verdon Gorge and was keen to repeat another adventure this year. We’d already had a couple of local walks on the Canal de Boulet and up to the local ruined castle of Montferrer but I wanted something more challenging.
Canigou from Chalets de Cortalets
The local magnet and highest mountain in the region is Canigou so that seemed an appropriate target. I have numerous guidebooks to the Pyrenees but none of them cover the mountains this far east. Without a guidebook and only the IGN maps as a guide I took the view that Canigou would have well-marked and used trails that would be easy to follow. It would serve as a good introduction to the region and once I had a feel for the area I could be more adventurous.
The main problem was that the main routes are all from the north and we were on the south giving a lengthy 1.5 hour drive to reach the start. Also the summit is at 2784m and most of the starts were at less than 1000m leaving a hefty climb in the summer heat. My tourist guidebooks mentioned forest roads that could be driven up to over 2000m that would make the ascent much easier. However they also mentioned tales of large potholes and suitability only for four-wheel drive and I wasn’t keen on taking my family car up there and coming a cropper. With this in mind I found what looked like a good compromise with a route from the east starting from a tiny hamlet called Los Masos. I figured it was about an hour from the house and would save a lengthy drive and looked a pleasant route.
Puig Del Roc Negre
As luck would have it I managed to find a decent guidebook to the area while we were in Prats de Mollo. It was in French but it did have my chosen route in it. Bad news was that it confirmed a total ascent of over 1800m, nearly 6000 feet in old money. It didn’t kill my enthusiasm so I packed up a full sack of water and food the night before and set my alarm for an alpine style start at 4am. I figured I wanted to get the ascent out-of-the-way before the day got too hot and I fervently hoped that the temperatures would be a little more bearable up high.
I slept badly and was awake well before my alarm so I crept out of the house just after 4 and drove the silent empty roads in the dark. My drive took me up to the same road I’d used for the walk on the Canal de Boulet with D. The dirt track was easy in the daylight but much more intimidating in the dark so I took things easy. The drive was enlivened by driving through an electric fence gate that you just push open with the car – a novel experience – and seeing some baby wild boar cross the road in front of me. I arrived at the Los Masos car park just before 5:30 and there were a couple of people sleeping by their car. I parked up quickly so as not to disturb them and headed off into the darkness finding my way by the light of my headtorch. I’d been concerned about finding the start of the path and keeping to it in the dark. I needn’t have worried as it was well-marked with paint splashes and apart from a couple of pauses to look around I had no problems. I settled into a slow steady pace up the 600m of zigzags through the forest and the light of dawn through the trees started to light the way just before I came out into the open at Portillon. It had only taken me an hour to make the climb so I was pretty pleased. As I emerged the sun was just rising.
Sunrise from Portillon
Clouds over the Roussillon Plain
I’d expected to see the Roussillon Plain and the coast laid out beneath my feet but instead there was a layer of low cloud and I was above it. It was breathtaking. I wandered until along until I found a spot to perch on the edge of the steep slopes I’d just climbed and catch my breath. The mountains were still dark and brooding but the sun was casting a glow of light over the clouds beneath my feet.
Ras Del Prat Cabrera
Sunrise over Ras Del Prat Cabrera
A few people had driven up the forest road and had camped for the night. One tent was perched right on the edge of the cliffs with a roaring fire going. I was mesmerised and sat for a good 30 minutes just soaking it in. I came back to reality as cars started coming up along the forest road and I soon realised that it was perfectly driveable with all sorts of cars making light work of the drive. It probably wouldn’t have saved me any time but it would have avoided a 600m climb in the dark. If I came up again I’d drive up and camp in this lovely spot.
Islands in the clouds
I still had a long walk and a lot of climbing to do so I pushed on. From Portillon there is a choice of routes, either up the road to the Chalet de Cortalets or along a higher path from the Ras Del Prat Cabrera. I chose the latter. It was an excellent route up through the trees with ever-expanding views and no-one else about, a real sense of peace.
View from my Breakfast spot
Well it would have been if I hadn’t been accompanied by a couple of hundred buzzing flies. They were to be my constant companions for the rest of the day. There was a constant low hum from the undergrowth and a buzzing in my ears. It was like having tinnitus. They seemed intent on exploring all my facial orifices and were deeply annoying. I pressed on until I realised I’d been walking for over 3 hours and hadn’t eaten. I stopped on a pile of boulders and had a stonking breakfast of croissants and jam washed down with a fresh cuppa. The flies seemed to respect mealtimes and left me alone. The weather was still warm even at 9am but not too hot as yet. As I packed, a large group, the first people I’d seen, walked past and greeted me with cheery “Hola”s to remind me I was in Catalan country. The walk to the hut was airy and spectacular and it was great to be amongst real mountains again. As I approached the hut, walkers became more numerous, likely they had stayed overnight in the hotel after ascending Canigou the previous day or perhaps this morning to watch the sunrise.
Chalet de Cortalets
The hut itself was huge and there were numerous people having breakfast so I pushed on past and started heading towards the main climb to the summit. The hut is located in a high alpine style bowl with spacious trees and a dried up lake. There were several people camping in the woods and it would be a splendid spot in spring when the lake would be full and the wild flowers would be in bloom. As I emerged Canigou and its north ridge, my route of ascent became visible and it looked magnificent, all brooding crags and rock ridges.
Canigou north ridge
The path from here heads across to the Pic Joffre where it meets the north ridge and I could see a steady stream of people ahead of me. The temperature was rising so I just settled into my routine pace and ate up the metres. Alpine starts never used to agree with me when I was younger and it was clear they still didn’t. My breakfast was sitting heavy and became a bit of struggle to keep going. The views were awesome and that kept me going.
The Tete Valley from Pic Joffre
As you climb onto the north ridge Canigou rises dramatically above you and from a distance looks rocky and impregnable.
Canigou north ridge from Pic Joffre
As I reached the bottom of the final climb (along with tens of other groups, the path traversed out onto the western flank and climbs to the summit in a series of long lazy zigzags. With hindsight I could have avoided the crowds and just climbed the ridge direct as it didn’t look much harder than a grade 1 scramble and I could have easily just traversed back onto the path if things had got tough.
Final summit slopes and ridge
I was mighty relieved to reach the summit and enjoy the 360 degree panorama along with a couple of hundred other people! It was just after 11 and I’d completed the long climb in a little over 5 hours including rests
North ridge from my summit spot
Canigou is a sacred mountain in Catalan culture and climbing the summit is a pilgrimage to many as well as magnet for walkers like myself eager to climb the highest point. The large summit cross is draped in the Catalan colours.
Summit Cross
There is a colourful orientation table but the only pilgrims worshipping it was a cloud of flying ants (why do they love mountain summits so much!). I quickly dropped a few feet from the summit and found a quiet peaceful spot overlooking the way I’d come up. The local mountains looked superb and I took a long and lasting rest while planning numerous other routes from the basis of my new guide.
Puig Del Roc Negre & Puig Dels Tres Vents
When I’m back this way I’ll bring my bivvy gear and do the donkey work in the evening, sleep up high and walk the summits and ridges in the early morning. It’s great walking country and I’d be pretty sure that, away from Canigou, you’d have it largely to yourself.
Your tired hero!
I was still feeling less than 100% and couldn’t face much of the vast weight of food I’d lugged up. I lay back on the rock and sunbathed for a while I ate my fresh fruit. I was pleased that the temperature was bearable and the light wind was most welcome. The realisation dawned on me that I had to reverse the 1800m I’d just climbed so collected my stuff to head down.
Forest around Chalets de Cortalets from the summit
Heading down, stragglers still heading up
I had half an idea to make a circuit and head down via the Crete du Barbet. However this involved a nasty descent of La Chiminee, all loose rock and people bouncing stones down it and another 100m of re-ascent. I couldn’t face it and decided just to return the way I’d come. As I headed down there were still loads of people coming up, most of whom looked decidedly unhappy as they were now climbing in the full heat of the sun.
Now I was on my way down I had the spring in my step back and I was enjoying the situation a lot more especially the lovely wander through the trees and meadows back to the hut.
Chalets de Cortalets
Having done a major day I decided to treat myself to a cold coke and a large jug of iced water (had I not been driving I would have a had a couple of beers but I’d probably have fallen asleep at the table and scared the tourists!). It was a great spot for a relax and it was a real effort to pick myself up and continue down – I still had a long way to go. As I passed the corner of the hut I noticed it had a tap dispensing cold water. I knew the hut would sell bottled water but had no idea it had a fresh water supply. I’d carried several litres of water with me to last all day so it was a little frustrating to realise I hadn’t needed to. Lessons learned!
I hadn’t the energy to repeat the high level path I’d ascended in the morning so I just walked back down the forest track. It wasn’t as bad as I thought with hardly any traffic with most people still out on the mountain. I plodded down grateful that the sun was behind the trees keeping the temperature bearable. As I came back out onto the edge above the forest where I’d sat and watched the sunrise I came out into the sun. It was blisteringly hot and I suddenly felt overwhelmed and overheated. I had planned a stop here in the sun before I went down the final slopes but it was unbearable.
Canal de Boulet from Ras Del Prat Cabrera
I walked as fast as I dared and plunged down into the forest until I found a shady rock in the trees. I was soaked through with sweat with rivulets running down my arms and legs. I just sat fanning myself with the map in an effort to cool down, lightening my load by drinking a hefty guzzle of water. I took off my trail shoes to let my feet breath and massage the blisters that had formed on my toes. It was a struggle to put them back on and move off. I was pretty knackered by this point and longed for the air-conditioned comfort of the car. I pretty much jogged down the 600m to the bottom, chased by the flies and amazed at how steep the path was and my speed of ascent in the dark earlier. I crossed a small, very welcome stream and ducked my head to cool down before I finally reached the car at 3.30. 10 hours for the walk which was just within the guidebook time, not bad going in full summer heat allowing for my tendency for long rests.
I arrived back, footsore, grubby and totally wiped out to a warm welcome from the family. One of the real pleasures of the holiday was waiting for me, a cooling dip in the pool.
What a day! I’d been above the clouds, climbed a sacred mountain and worshipped its glory. I was tired but fulfilled. I’d sleep tonight, and tomorrow I’d rest 🙂
The Roussillon region is well furnished with historical treasures. Numerous Cathar castles like the one we visited at Chateau de Peyrepertuse, abbeys, churches, forts, ruins of various shapes and sizes. It also has several walled towns, the most famous of which is the UNESCO World Heritage site at Villefranche de Conflet. That was too far for a day trip from our base but we were lucky in that the lesser known and wonderfully named town of Prats de Mollo was just a short drive away.
The town and Fort Lagarde above
The kids don’t really go for these old villages but I love them with their narrow twisting streets and sense of timelessness. Under minor protest we headed down for a half a day stroll.
It was a stunning day, clear and blue and the views up to the town and its fortress above, the Fort Lagarde.
Romanesque Church and Mountains
The situation is stunning with the town cradled amongst the foothills of the Canigou mountains and the Costabonne massif, the last staging post before the road heads into Spain. The town and its fort were designed the famous french military architect Vauban and it possesses all his trademark features, especially the star-shaped fort itself
The market was in town so before we explored we bought some fresh fruit for a mid morning snack and sat in a quiet square near the Porte D’Espagne to enjoy the food and the ambience.
Place D’Armes
Afterwards TBF and L decided to wander amongst the shops in the Place D’Armes while me and D explored the town walls which were excellent. The Romanesque church is especially impressive. The castle sits high above the town so we had decided it was too hot to be exploring another castle. We were just about to return to the town when we came across a hidden treasure. There was as you’d expect a twisting path up through the trees to castle high above but there was also an underground passage that led up under the hill and up a sloping path and steps to the castle ramparts.
Going Underground
A secret passage to the castle! Does it get better than that. D was thrilled by this (well I was too of course) and it was with some degree of excitement that we emerged on the outer edge of the castle.
The view down over the town and across the mountains was well worth the effort. We decided there was no need to see the castle after all that excitement and went back down the same way to double the pleasure.
Fort Lagarde Ramparts
Prats from the Fort
We decided to celebrate with a fine lunch in a restaurant on the main square before a final tour of the walls.
Lunch in the square
I could spend hours just wandering the streets and watch life roll by in these old towns but the kids had done enough and wanted to head back to the pool for some more play-time.
Porte D’Espagne
A place not to be missed f you’re ever down this way
For most of our stay in Roussillon the weather was hot and hazy. For a couple of days in the middle however we had some exceptionally clear blue skies, more like spring or autumn. One afternoon me and D took off into the foothills for a late afternoon stroll.
Col de la Descargue
I’d spied on my map a low ridge that you could drive pretty close to the top of, with a ruined watchtower at its foot. The ridge, the Canal de Boulet, led up to the Puig de L’Estelle at 1778 metres and looked an excellent easy round trip but for today we settled on an amble up to one of the small bumps on the ridge to soak up the views and enjoy being out in the mountains without too much effort.
Tour de la Batere
The road climbs through some wonderful, wild and lonely scenery and we barely saw a car on the climb. The last couple of kilometres are on a gravel track that was level and no problem to drive and we parked at the spectacularly sited Tour de Batere on the Col de la Descargue.
Tour de la Batere
Even from here the views across to the coastal plain and the Med and over the mountains to Spain and the Canigou massif were simply breathtaking.
View South towards Spain
The air was crystal clear and the sky a deep azure blue. The grassy ridge just ached to be climbed so we set off to see how far we could get before we had to return for tea (it was already after 5pm). It was hot but bearable for walking with a cool breeze and the terrain was perfect for walking.
D, High Level Strolling
We picked our way up the grassy ridge over a succession of minor tops until we came to a point below the main ridge where we decided it was time to stop. I could have carried on for miles and it would be a superb place for an overnight sleep under the stars, something I plan to do next time I’m here.
Monts D’Alberes
The proximity to the flat expanse of the Roussillon plain gives an exaggerated sense of height and space and there is a hint of majesty with the Canigou massif rising in the distance.
Puig de L’Estelle & Canigou Massif
Roussillon Plain
There seemed to be an endless array of ridges to be walked and I was later pleased to find (having purchased a French guidebook) that many are walkable. Lots more plans have been made.
We sat for as long as we dared without risking the wrath of TBF for being late for tea. We reluctantly headed down.
Heading down
D was especially pleased that he’d been out walking in the Pyrenees, albeit in the smaller foothills.
Tour de la Batere
A little gem of a walk but still, my need for a more challenging walk was not yet satisfied and my plans were forming for a proper day out in the mountains. Watch this space
One of the few pleasures we couldn’t really enjoy at our holiday home in Provence the previous two years was a decent local walk. This year we had a great walk from the villa without even taking the car. The little village of Montferrer near the Villa has its own ruined castle high up on the hill behind.
D approaches the chateau
Early in the holiday we had a day of grey skies and light showers so I decided to explore. The path to the castle runs right behind the garden so after a bit of scrabbling about in the undergrowth, I was up and away. It was pretty late when I set off and I had no real plan to get to the top but I was enjoying stretching my legs so much I just carried on. The path traverses through the trees and was a bit wet after the rain but it slowly turned back towards the castle and opened out onto the grassy pastures high up.
Monts D’Alberes and Roussillon coast
The path was easy to follow and gave expansive views across the forest clad foothills and down towards the Monts D’Alberes near the coast together with coastline and the Roussillon coast itself. It was clearly blue and sunny down there and although it was cloudy overhead (and over the nearby Canigou massif) it was still pleasantly warm.
Summit and chateau
The path wended its way to the castle.
Montferrer Village
Chateau from the return path
There is not much to it but you can make out some of the walls and chambers and after some delicate scrambling I reached an airy perch on the rocks and sat down to take in the views, especially fine to south over the village of Montferrer a couple of hundred metres below.
Chateau and Roussillon coast
I checked the map and there appeared to be an alternative way down to make a circuit. I should point out that French IGN maps are not a patch on our O/S ones and that waymarking anything other than main GR routes isn’t always that great. A long way of saying I went the wrong way and had to re-trace my steps about a mile when the path I was on ended in a tangle of undergrowth and electric fences – boy do the French love their electric fences. There mist be thousands of miles of the stuff in the area. Wish I’d been selling it in the boom years.
It was much further down than I thought especially with another couple of unexpected IGN inspired deviations. The family were getting a little concerned when I didn’t show up till after 7 although probably more because I do most of the food preparation when on holiday. A fine walk.
A few days later TBF and D repeated the walk on an early morning under clear blue skies with some even better views. I should have gone out early a few days myself as it’s the best light but I’d drifted into lazy mode and felt the views from the garden with a croissant and a cuppa were just as good.
D and the Canigou massif
South towards the Spain
D on the way back down
The village on Montferrer is pretty stunning in its own right. It just has a small bar that sells the morning bakery goods and is wonderfully peaceful and serene. The walk down each morning to collect the bread was always a pleasure so here are a few photos of the quintessential french mountain village with it’s Romaesque church.
I spend alot of my time surfing the web looking for ideas on places to go, walking routes, travel ideas and tips to plan the perfect holiday or day out. (I'm a project manager I like to plan). I thought it was time to share my own experiences and contribute to the vast amounts in information that's already out there.
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