I mentioned in the previous post that we needed a swim after our visits to Teror and La Garita.
The north coast of the island is largely rocky and exposed to some pretty big Atlantic waves (other than the long sandy beach in Las Palmas – more on that in a later post)
To counter this there are several man-made seawater pools along the coast so we headed to one of those, Los Charcones.
It was an excellent choice. There were a couple of pools as well as large paved area to sit and sunbathe and freshwater showers.
There were also some superb views in both directions along the coast.
There was a calm and relatively shallow inner pool, perfect for an easy swim.
But it was the outer pool that was the most fun. It was deep and absolutely teeming fish and crabs. Best of all you could get really close to the massive waves without being under any threat as the rocks protected you from – most – of their power. You could sit on the edge of the pool and let the waves just crash over your head and turn the pool into a bouncing frothy jacuzzi – great fun.
The Funsters enjoying a sit in the sun post-swim.
We spent a very happy couple of hours here, yet another really great find. I would have taken some photos and video out by the waves but I wasn’t sure I could hang onto my phone in all the action!
After the swim we could just sit and watch the world go by and the tide slowly engulf the pools.
There were lots of surfers out braving some pretty huge waves.
And lots of these comical little birds who waddled about right in front of us in large groups.
As the sun went down it got chilly pretty quickly and headed home. A great day out with plenty of variety but all less than an hour from home base.
After our Black Mountain walk we headed off for a night out in the van. We headed back to one of our new favourite places, Llyn Brianne.
We’d originally hoped we could have a late afternoon swim but it seemed the colder than expected weather would put a stop to that.
We headed back to the lovely little spot at Fannog and were suprised to find it calm and relatively warm.
Time for that swim.
I’ll leave you guess which one of us is skinny dipping!
With it being a Saturday many of the off grid spots we’d earmarked on previous visits were already taken. However, after a bit of a drive we found one I hadn’t come across before. A really lovely and lonely little spot on a mountain road up over 500m. It’s a road from nowhere in particular to the back of beyond so there was barely a car passed by while we were there.
I took a short wander up onto the nearby hill. The van is just visible in the centre of the photo.
There was a reasonable sunset but the terrain, even over the few hundred yards I walked was a reminder of just how rough these mountains can be.
A cosy night in the van and the next morning was warm with some watery sunshine.
We breakfasted outside, pleased that we’d been gifted what was probably the last warm weekend of the year.
We took a drive around and came across this lovely little picnic area overlooking the Berwyn valley.
And a short walk through the woods to the hidden Llyn Berwyn.
A tranquil spot that I’d thought might be a place for a swim but the water looked a little brown and less than inviting.
So we headed back to Fannog where we’d swum the night before.
It’s quite a popular spot in summer and we were surprised to find it deserted on such a lovely day.
We took to the water for another swim.
They were brief swims. In the intervening few weeks after our last visit the rains had added a few inches depth to the water and reduced the temperature markedly. Cold enough to make your – ahem – “bits” ache!
Suitably refreshed we settled down for lunch.
This small rocky peninsula makes a perfect picnic spot
We had thought about moving on from here and taking in a walk on our way back home.
However as the weather was so calm and pleasantly warm and the fact that this might be last time we’d be sitting outside like this for a while, we decided to stay for the rest of the afternoon.
There would be opportunities for sunny walks through the winter (hopefully!) but it could be a long wait for the next warm afternoon to relax in the sun.
We spread lunch out over 2-3 hours and just enjoyed the peace of this stunning corner of Wales.
Neither of us could quite bring ourselves to take another swim though!
Eventually we had to pack up and head home.
Next time we visit will likely be winter and a swim before retreating to the van may not be quite so attractive an option. Not a bad way to bid farewell to warmer activities as winter descends.
The warm weather that started the previous Sunday continued through the week into a full on heatwave.
Time to try and rekindle that Italy vibe with short trip out for some van camping and swimming.
On our way to wilds of mid Wales we stopped off at the Irfon Wash Pool swimming hole. Last time we were here was a cold and showery February day when swimming wasn’t a terribly attractive idea. This time with temperatures up in the high 20’s we enjoyed a fine hour with TBF swimming in the wide & deep main pool while I swam in the gorge upstream and had a little play in the waterfalls.
Suitably refreshed, we headed over to Llyn Brianne for the evening. We found a fabulous little van spot, a short gravel track with room just for one van.
Our private little corner with great views over the reservoir.
After an fine al fresco meal we headed down to the water for a late evening swim.
The sunset wasn’t too bad either.
With such warm weather even at 8pm it was perfect for a dip.
Just me in the water this time, TBF deciding it was a little late.
Perfect reflections in the water. Unfortunately the glass smooth surface indicates it was completely calm and as the sun went down, out came the midges, swarming as I hurriedly got changed. Put something of a dampener on the evening as we had to hide in the van behind my newly installed insect netting over the doors which I have to say worked pretty well.
Next morning was stunning, gorgeous blue skies and still warm, thankfully with a light breeze to keep the midges away.
We went back to the lake shore for a pre-breakfast swim.
TBF taking to the water this time.
Fond memories of our early morning swims at Lake Garda.
Back to the van for breakfast.
Our days entertainment was more water based fun in the Irfon Valley. Far too hot to go hiking.
Its a superb valley especially on a hot and sunny late summer afternoon.
Parking is limited so rather than occupy the limited spaces we stopped at the far end of the valley and walked the 15 minutes to the main attraction.
There are a series of spectacular deep pools, perfect for swimming and jumping. The most impressive feature is the slot canyon you can see at the back of this pool. The river flows through a small gorge only a couple of feet across and its a real adventure to swim through it to the waterfall at the other end. If you look at my post from a visit in 2015 you can see some photos taken within the canyon and if you watch the little musical slideshow at the end there is some video.
We settled down for the day with a large picnic lunch and a cold beer.
It was pretty quiet when we arrived but as the morning ticked on, more and more people showed up.
There seemed to be numerous groups of young people who all seemed to know each other. I was worried they might be the noisy, loutish types but they were in fact, friendly, good natured and good fun to watch them messing about. A trio of lads were the life and soul and spent the afternoon amusing everyone by chucking themselves in boggy pools and mud trying to get as mucky as possible. One of them even tried to ride a bike in the deepest pool (he failed!). It was all very funny and a happy respectful party type of atmosphere.
I took a walk upstream to look at the upper reaches of the gorge. Whilst not as narrow as the slot canyon, it is still impressive.
Lots more deep pools for swimming and small waterfalls.
It would be a great place for canyoning although I’ve not done that for many years.
The gorge suddenly emerges onto the more lazy stretch above.
Back to base for more eating, drinking, and swimming.
And for me to behave like a big kid sitting in nature’s jacuzzi.
Time to head back home after a superb 24 hours out in the mountains as summer bid us farewell.
We enjoyed our day out in Malcesine on the shores of Lake Garda on our previous trip and the ferry takes you past the town of Limone. It looked a rather nice place so we took advantage of the well run and – considering this is a tourist hot-spot – relatively cheap lake ferry service.
Much like our trips to Lago di Ledro and Lago di Tenno we visited Limone twice so this post contains a mix of photos from both trips.
Its a great day out that kicks off with a nice morning walk along the sea lake-front to Torbole. I can’t help always referring to it as a sea-front such is the size of the lake and the large waves that frequent the shore especially in the afternoon.
Looking south along the lake towards Limone.
Depending on the size of boat that happens to be servicing the route on any given day/time, you either get a largish ferry, capable of transporting cars and with air-conditioned indoor seating, or a small crowded boat, standing room only.
You can normally snag a viewing spot somewhere and its a superb trip across the lake.
Limone comes into view.
Closer.
And just about to arrive.
One of those larger ferries.
Its a picture-postcard-perfect town that takes its name from the Lemon groves on the hillsides. Lemons dominate the shops with Lemon coloured, flavoured and scented products to the fore.
As you can imagine such a pretty spot does attract hordes of tourists (including us of course) but with a little effort there are quiet spots to enjoy.
A look along the many waterfront restaurants.
We had a routine for the visits (as far as you can have a routine when visiting somewhere twice).
After a wander along the waterfront you realise its hot, very hot, and you need to cool down. So we headed to the large public beach and took a swim. Crowded, and on our first visit some big waves but always refreshing
A wander back along the waterfront to look for a lunchtime meal.
Happy families – well the female half anyway.
Then grab an ice cream and eat it down by the harbour.
Wonderful views with the backdrop of the towering mountains.
This side of the lake is very much cliffs tumbling straight down into the lake.
Quite impressive that they manage to create these small towns and Lemon industry with such limited space!
Looking across the harbour to Monte Baldo.
After an ice cream its time to relax. A wander through the streets.
With fine views over the clay-tile roof tops and the lake.
For an afternoon swim.
I’d spotted on the map there was another public beach just north of the town. There were tiny pockets of beach between concrete jetties but it was very quiet, just a handful of people. The water was crystal clear and perfect for either swimming or just chilling on the rocks in the water.
The views across to Monte Baldo were also magnificent.
The Prof enjoys a swim.
A view across the small pocket beaches.
The views across the lake to the narrow crest of Monte Baldo were just magnificent.
It became another favourite spot and we spent a good couple of hours just lazing about here both times we visted Limone.
All that swimming is thirsty work so time to repair to a convivial bar for an afternoon drink.
We stopped at this bar with its fine waterfront tables a few times.
As the sun dips behind the mountains late in the day its a less hot and sweaty walk along the waterfront.
Yet another in the now famed series “Small Person or Big Chair?”
Most of the day trippers have departed by this time so its a much quieter experience and we enjoyed more sitting on the rocks taking in the awesome views
TJF looking relaxed.
More fine views across the lake.
A panorama taking in both sides of the lake and the town & beach
Time to wander back into to town to catch the ferry back to Torbole.
While we waited, time for a drink of local fresh squeezed Lemon Juice. Very sharp but very refreshing.
The Moon rises over Monte Baldo as a ferry plies its course.
And the delight of an early evening boat trip on the Lake.
Looking south along the lake.
Heading north towards Riva and Torbole, Monte Brione behind our campsite visible at the head of the lake.
The mountains on the western shore look particularly dramatic in the evening .
Monte Brione.
The sun sets behind the mountains.
Torbole comes into view.
Just leaving a nice evening stroll back along the lake-front to the campsite. A fine couple of days out.
Why just visit one lake on a day out when you can visit two. After enjoying the delights of Lago di Ledro we had time to fit in another of these wonderful mountain lakes, Lago di Tenno.
Only a 30 minute drive from Lago di Ledro and a 30 minute drive back to the campsite made for a perfect day out.
Like Lago di Ledro this one is alos perched about 1500 feet above Lago di Garda and is surrounded by forested mountains.
Its a very different feel as the water is a striking turquoise blue and quite opaque, clear for a few metres but seeing into the depths is hidden. I’m guessing on account of the high mineral content in the water. The lake doesn’t have an outflow as it was created by a rockslide that dammed the valley.
It was also teeming with large fish that swam near the shore, likely the many people who visit feed them.
Its quite hidden away from the village of Tenno and the main road. You have to walk down a couple of hundred feet into the valley to see it. Its quite a startling sight when you do.
We visited twice, both times after our stay at Lago di Ledro as they are so close together.
As per the previous post the photos are a mix of those two visits. The first one was brief as it really looked like we were going to be hit by a thunderstorm.
The second a longer stay on a much sunnier afternoon.
This is effectively the “dam” that created the lake – at least that’s my guess.
Storm clouds gathering on our first visit.
The colour of the water is ethereal – it reminded us of the water in Lac de Sainte Croix near the Verdon Gorge.
Needless to say on both trips we parked ourselves up on the beach and took some long swims. It must be relatively deep for a relatively small lake as it shelves very steeply.
Its quite an odd experience to swim in water that’s so clear and yet opaque.
On the second afternoon I took a walk along the shore. This is looking back to the little peninsula we’d based ourselves on.
I’d intended to do a complete circuit of the lake but it was much further than I thought and our car park time was running out.
I contented myself with a more leisurely stroll and a few photos.
And besides, these clouds were bubbling and looking a little threatening.
Our first trip out from the campsite and we wanted to go somewhere we hadn’t been before on our last trip. My Wild Swimming guide said Lago di Ledro was one of the finest swimming lakes in the area and as it was only 30 minutes away we thought we’d see what it was like.
Well, as you can see it was absolutely stunning, easily the equal of Lago di Garda and very much quieter.
We actually visited on two occasions. As we loved it so much we went back for another visit when the Prof was with us. The photos in the post are mix bag from both visits.
On our first visit, the forecast was very mixed with Thunderstorms on their way. We had no idea how long we’d have before a soaking but the weather was fine and a little cloudy when we arrived and actually improved as the day went on.
We found a really nice parking and picnic area away from the local villages with a lovely lakeside path.
The water was a stunning and crystal clear turquoise blue
Possibly the clearest water I’ve ever swum in.
We found some rocks around the shore to sit on and swim from.
It looked like the water would be icy cold but it was a perfect temperature.
The Prof enjoying a bit of snorkelling.
A resident duck and family passing through.
It was stunning and idyllic spot and we were immediately in love with the place.
A view across to what looked like a very nice campsite and the larger public grassy area and beach, also very fine.
Panorama looking south across the lake.
I took numerous photos and despite the fact they are all of similar views across the lake took me a while to filter down to an acceptable number.
TBF enjoying lunch at the campsite bar.
More views of the mountains across the lake.
More views of that stunning clear water. How I could do with a swim there right now!
Just above the car park there was a cycle path running a little higher up. The views from up here was just as grand, giving a new perspective on this beguiling stretch of water.
Its another of those places to file under “why is its not better known”
Panorama from the cycle path above the lake.
On our first visit we lunched at the campsite bar but second time we packed a lavish picnic of goodies from the Deli at the local supermarket. Lunches don’t get better than this.
On both visits we took a second swim from the very narrow beach just below the picnic area.
More joy to be had swimming in such deep clear waters with a backdrop of forested mountains.
I think you can tell we quite liked it here!
TBF poses in the sunshine
She’s many times more photogenic than I am!
TJF came down to join us on the second day.
It would be a great place to spend a few days although its a bit cut off from the main sights and practicalities of Lago di Garda, shops and such like.
Right up there with my favourite places and that’s without having explored the rest of the shoreline or the stunning mountains that form the surrounding skyline.
You want more Italian lakes? Next post will satisfy that wish.
Onwards to our main destination. No surprise that we loved Lago di Garda so much that we decided on a second visit back to the same part of the lake and the same campsite. It was just the three of us for the first week but the Prof joined us for the second week
I don’t think I could ever tire of this view.
On our first morning it was a joy to see it again.
On our previous trip we had several long days away from the campsite so this year we vowed to spend more time in our local spot.
Sun-drenched selfie.
It was significantly hotter than last year so lazing on the beaches nearby and taking many swims was the order of the day(s).
Just lazing about and swimming with these views was always a pleasure especially at 36C!
TBF soaks up the afternoon sun.
Looking back towards where our campsite is. This small beach is about a 5 minute walk away and made for a nice change of scene. Other than the windsurf school it was always quieter than the campsite beach.
Long view down the the lake was another favourite.
Sunrise colours. We took a swim every morning before breakfast when the water was calm and the beach deserted other than the collection of various types of duck and a few geese and swans. They were always a delight to share the beach with and were very friendly and used to the people around.
Early morning wind-surfer.
Our pitch on the campsite.
And a view of our home from the toilet block balcony
This year we also made a habit of heading down to the beach in the evening. Mainly for an evening swim to cool off before bed.
It was always very quiet and peaceful and I came to enjoy it as much as the morning swims.
These two trees always made for a fine photo subject.
Night-time on the beach.
We spent plenty of time on the water as well as in it. Both in the kayak and the Paddle Board
TJF enjoyed just floating around on the inflatable ring.
Always quieter out on the water.
And gives a different perspective of the lake and surrounding mountains.
Further afield on foot we developed some regular outings. This on the way to Torbole, looking out over the lake from the bridge over the Sarca River.
And inland towards the mountains.
It was a regular afternoon post lunch outing for an ice cream.
This cute little family of white-breasted ducks were always around. The water-fowl become like regulr friends on our little walks around.
Our happy family enjoying the view.
One of our favourite spots was this set of steps built for the scuba diving school. In the morning before the wind turns and comes up the lake its wonderfully calm and clear and very quiet.
We had a favourite rock to sit on and just paddle, swim, chat and generally relax. We came here several times.
Happy family.
The Prof enjoys a swim.
View towards Riva.
Across to the mountains that tower over the lake.
We came back for an evening swim here a couple of times.
TJF enjoys the evening cooler air.
The night-time views gave a different perspective on those classic views.
The other worldly light of night divers exploring the lake.
We took a few wanders into Riva del Garda both for lunch and evening meal.
The main square and church tower.
The other towns around the lake are very busy with tourists but Riva for some reason is always quiet in the daytime. It comes alive more in the evening.
The ferry harbour.
Superb views across the lake to Monte Baldo
One of the gateways into the old town.
Evening views across to the mountains behind.
And along the lake.
And a night-time shot of the yacht harbour. Happy memories of a relaxing time at this most fabulous Lake playground.
Another Friday, another sunny evening, another trip to my new favourite off grid spot out in mid-Wales
So nice to be able to take a trip out at short notice and take advantage of good weather.
Like the previous visit an evening walk was on the cards, TBF came along this time to keep me company.
Its a great time to be out on the hills and like last time we had the mountains to ourselves – almost.
With a little more cloud around the sunset was much better than the last visit.
Back to the van for beers (or tea) and snacks.
All washed down with a glorious sunset.
Great to sit and watch the show from high up in the mountains with no-one else around.
Time for bed.
Next day the weather was forecasting storms later on but the morning was still warm and sunny.
Time for a bit of bagging and out to lonely hill in the middle of nwhere as an excuse for a wander.
Hazier than the previous weekend.
On our way back to the van for lunch. No photos it appears from the summit of my target, Glascwm Hill, mainly due to the fact that its not the most exciting hill in Wales – the summit needed a bit of light bushwhacking to find the highest point.
It was still very warm so we took the chance of quick swim before the promised rains arrived.
A new spot for us, Penn-Ddol Rocks on the Wye near Builth Wells.
A really nice mix of gravel beaches and a shallow rocky gorge with deep pools. Nice finish to another cracking short evening/day trip.
We parked up in the pretty village of Kingsland, next to its church.
And took a short walk to one of our favourite riverside picnic spots by the River Lugg.
Its a perfect meadow contained in a loop of the river.
A great spot for a sunny chill out on the grass and a very fine picnic.
The river bank teems with insect life especially damselflies. Its also great for cold swim – the Lugg is always much colder than the Wye.
I’ve been here several time now but never seen anyone else here.
Just downstream there is an even better, deeper couple of swimming spots, here just above a weir.
And below where it opens out into a small lake-like pool, deep, cold and refreshing.
You have to swim through the first pool, scramble down the weir and over the rocks to reach the lower pool.
The water was still flowing fast after the winter rains so it was quite hard to swim back to the weir to climb out as the lower pool is surrounded by fences and a protective army of brambles and nettles.
We walked back across the meadows to collect TJF as we had one more box to tick for the perfect day out.
Another morning bathed in glorious sunshine. We packed up the van and headed to the north-west corner of the Gower, not a part I’ve visited before.
We parked up by Broughton Burrows and walked out through the large caravan site to the coast path
I’d always assumed that this corner was just dunes leading down to the sands but in fact its a rocky shoreline with some truly stunning beaches.
Its not one of the better known corners so the path was quiet with only a few people out for a stroll.
After a little look at one of my many Wild Swimming guides, it indicated a small rock pool deep enough for swimming.
Its called the Bluepool and you can see it at the bottom of the photo above.
Not only is the pool stunning but so is the beach it sits behind. A pristine expanse of sand.
We had to take a swim of course.
You can probably tell from the look on my face that the water was startlingly cold! Not unexpected this early in the year.
We also paddled in the waves and TBF took a very brief swim.
Despite the warm sunshine it really was just too cold to enjoy anything more than the briefest dip.
It was wonderfully refreshing and the situation just perfect.
Eventually we had to tear ourselves away as there was more of this little bit of coast to explore.
A last look at the Bluepool.
Quite a scramble to get from the cost path down to the beach.
The walk through the grassy dunes was a real delight especially on such a warm sunny morning.
At the far end is this small island called Burry Holms with another stunning beach.
This one was completely deserted and it was tempting for another swim – the memory of cold water was still fresh in the mind to cause us pause.
We had a wander across the sands.
We were still enjoying our good fortune that the weather had been so perfect.
I’d expected Burry Holms to be quite popular but there were just half a dozen people about. The paths were hard to find so it clearly doesn’t see many visitors.
Quite surprising when it has a spot like this overlooking Rhossili Bay for lunch.
We had a look around the island (its has some very scant ruins of an old settlement and church) before starting the walk back to the car.
The tide was fully out now so we chose to walk back along the sands, paddling around a couple of the headlands.
The last headlands before the Bluepool beach was quite deep to walk round. Luckily there was an arch through the cliffs.
TBF threading the needle.
We sat on the sands for a while but a chilly wind was blowing in across the bay so returned to the van for a cuppa before heading home.
So glad we visited this corner and its well worth seeking out.
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