Archive for the ‘port isaac’ Tag

Mountains by the Coast   14 comments


Coastal walking seems to fall into two types. Stretches of easy walking along the cliff tops punctuated by occasional short drops to the sea. Then there are sections of punishing, relentless climbs and drops like a rollercoaster. We chose one of these for our last day in Cornwall.

We were looking for a section we hadn’t walked before so headed for Port Quin with a view to walking to Port Isaac or Port Gaverne and back.The sunny weather had been replaced by leaden grey skies and rain looked a certainty. Having had two pretty decent days in November, a third would be pushing our luck to the extremes so we weren’t disheartened and coastlines always deliver an experience even on the worst of days


Port Quin is a tiny settlement barely worthy of a name. Just a few National Trust houses for rent (I think my parents stayed here once) and some run down looking apartments. The cove is tiny in width but long in length. Not unlike Boscastle further north


The first steep climb of the day gave views across the dark and foreboding coastline


The section in shot below, across Downgate Cove from Kellan Head, had three climbs of around 250 feet and back down to sea level. Its only about a mile and only a third of the way to where we were going!


A couple of seals watched us from the water but it was far too gloomy to get a decent image


Looking back along the first mountainous stretch


And along the next one, Greengarden Cove. It rained on and off for a while on this stretch but it never materialised into the downpour we expected and we never really got wet all day which was a bonus


These steps went on forever and would be brutal if walking the other up (we came down)


Right down to sea level at Pine Haven


You can see the steep steps in the shot below. Walking the coast path must be really hard work in stretches like this. On a bad day with wind and rain it must be morale sapping to trudge up one steep climb with a heavy pack only to drop back down and have to do it all over again a few minutes later and keep that going for a whole day. This section of the SW coast path is notoriously challenging



It looked really dark and nasty further north. The “island” on the left hand side below is Tintagel and its castle


After another steep climb we arrived at Port Isaac. No idea what setting my iPhone drifted on to here. Must be the “colour drained hangover look” setting


Back to normal exposure



Port Isaac was lovely even under a grey sky although it was as bright a part of the day as we had. It also had an excellent cafe, The Chapel Cafe. A superb, hearty veggie soup sustained us for the journey back. The Fish Finger sandwich here is legendary and looked awesome but I wasn’t hungry enough to do it justice


We returned to Port Quin by an inland route. It was one of the muddiest, dreariest routes I’ve walked in a while (apart from coastal views at the start and finish). Long trudges across endless cow-pat spattered fields is not my idea of fun. Reminds you that rural Cornwall (away from the moorland bits) is pretty ordinary. It’s the coastline that’s its star attraction



To finish on more of high we extended the walk beyond Port Quin to the west to look at Doyden Point and Doyden Castle


It’s another NT property and you can rent it – must be an interesting place to stay



It was cold and blustery up here so we didn’t linger but the views were immense


Port Quin Harbour


Doyden Castle





A not too longish walk of 6 miles, in the end but with a mountain-climbing amount of ascent. My OS Maps app says 3,880 feet but that can’t be right. I’d estimate over 2,000 feet though, on very steep slippery paths. Who needs mountains

Port Quin & Port Isaac

We had a cuppa in the car park and headed off to try to see the display of starlings near Bodmin Moor. It was lashing down with rain when we got there and we were a bit late for the main show so I didn’t get any images or video as I wanted. What we did see was spectacular and it is a truly extraordinary sight. If you get chance to see one these displays then make the effort, its amazing

TBF was a little distracted as she thought she’d lost her wedding ring on the walk. It’s a family heirloom and irreplaceable so she was pretty upset. We were sure it was gone for good but luckily it turned up in the boot bag when we got home. It’s now been altered so it doesn’t slip off so easily.  A happy ending to great weekend away

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