Archive for the ‘Meall Dearg Choire nan Muc’ Tag

Easter in Ardgour Part 4 – The Walk Out and Drive Home   16 comments

Our final day in Glen Scaddle and we woke to another glorious morning of clear blue skies. It was wickedly cold again with the easterly breeze adding an extra bite

Sgurr a Chaorainn, Beinn na h-Uamha, Gleann Mhic Phail

Early morning

We took a whole host more photos as we savoured our surroundings before we had to head back home. Mornings like this are inspiring and depressing in equal measure. Inspiring as the soaring peaks and wild glens lift your spirits. Depressing in the knowledge that the following morning I’d be waking up to another day of work in a stifling office.

Glen Scaddle

Glen Scaddle

We enjoyed a fine breakfast. Well I did anyway (GM is still in the pigeon loft scrapings club). It was then time to break down the tent, pack up, take a last lingering look at our splendid home for the past 4 days, hoist the packs and trudge off

Glen Scaddle

Late Breakfast

Glen Scaddle, Sgurr Dhomhnuill, Carn na Nathrach

Breaking Camp

Glen Scaddle, Sgurr Dhomhnuill, Carn na Nathrach

Fond Farewell

The walk out was every bit as magnificent as the walk in (albeit with tired feet and a heavy heart). The views with sun now behind us were different and yet as always with a few days spent in the same area familiar and welcoming

Glen Scaddle

Heading Home

Glen Scaddle

The Long Walk

This time we decided against the riverside path and took the forestry track. Partly for a change of scene and partly for an easier walk. It was a result on both counts and despite my very sore feet I thoroughly enjoyed it. The views back up Glen Scaddle from a break in the forest at it’s highest point were particularly fetching

Glen Scaddle

GM & the Lone Pine

Glen Scaddle

Green on Brown

Glen Scaddle

The Wild Beauty of Glen Scaddle

Heading east, it was Ben Nevis that really held the attention and it was great to watch it become larger in view as we plodded back out

Glen Scaddle, Ben Nevis

GM on the Forest Track, Ben Nevis behind

Ben Nevis

Ben Nevis

I have to admit that I found the final couple of miles along the freshly gravelled track a real chore. My feet ached and the sack was a real burden even though I’d eaten a good portion of the weight. Probably it was just the low feeling of a cracking trip coming to an end. I was glad to reach the car, drop the weight for the last time and change into some clean clothes.

Ben Nevis, Glen Scaddle

The weight is off

The weather was still glorious and I enjoyed again the superb views while waiting for the Corran Ferry

Beinn a Bheithir, Corran Ferry

Beinn a Bheithir across the Corran Ferry

Corran Ferry

Corran Ferry

Scotland had one last treat for us. The drive through Glencoe was truly magnificent. The sky a deep blue and all the big summits were in full winter conditions. They were just begging to be climbed on such a perfect day but we had long journeys home and I had to content myself with the views from the car and a few photos taken through the windscreen.

Ardgour

Southern Ardgour from the A82

Pap of Glencoe

Pap of Glencoe from the A82

Glencoe

Glencoe

Pap of Glencoe

Glencoe

Buachaille Etive Mhor

Buachaille Etive Mhor

And that was it. We headed back to Berwick via the chippy in Callander and then for for another 5 hours back home to Hereford. It was a long and lonely drive but my head was swimming with memories of a spectacular trip, one that will live long in the memory and take some beating wherever we end up next Easter

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Easter in Ardgour Part 1 – The Walk In   16 comments

The build up to the Easter weekend wasn’t promising. We were still in the grip of late winter and the weather and forecasts were full of cold biting easterly winds, snow and freezing temperatures. Not exactly prime weather for backpacking to fulfill what has become a regular date in my yearly calendar. I travelled up to Berwick to meet up with GM and arrived in blustery snow. We toyed with idea of some ski-touring in the Cairngorms but the forecast looked better in the west and the thought of cold wintry wild camp was appealing in a masochistic sort of way.

As we drove north to Edinburgh and through the central lowlands the next day it wasn’t looking good. Leaden grey skies and snow flurries were the order of the day but as we approached Callander for breakfast, things were improving. After the usual feed we pressed on and things dramatically improved. Grey sky was replaced by blue and snow-capped mountains filled the windscreen. The ice falls on the cliffs above Glen Ogle were awesome and the drive down Glen Dochart, across Rannoch Moor and through Glencoe were stupendous. Scotland in all it’s winter glory. When we reached the Corran Ferry there was barely a cloud in the sky and excitement reached fever pitch. Well nearly 🙂

Corran Ferry, Meall Dearg Choire nan Muc

Meall Dearg Choire nan Muc from the Corran Ferry terminal

I was like a kid running about the little ferry taking photos and enjoying the views up and down the loch while GM sat quietly in the car, probably rolling his eyes I guess. With the blue water sparkling in the sunlight it was just superb. I couldn’t wait to get going

Beinn a Bheithir, Corran Ferry

Beinn a Bheithir from the Corran Ferry

All the cars and lorries turned left off the ferry to head to Strontian, we were the only car that turned right. We were soon parked up at the gravel track that leads into Glen Scaddle. Ben Nevis was watching over us across the loch as we packed.

Ben Nevis, Glen Scaddle

Ben Nevis from the end of Glen Scaddle

I’m not in any way a lightweight backpacker. I prefer to bear the weight of a half decent meal and plenty of food as I’m permanently hungry when out walking. This trip the sack weight was bolstered by a full weight down sleeping bag and extra thermals and clothing for the cold nights. Despite the fact the hills we were planning to tackle were less than 3,000 feet and the snow line had dramatically risen as we’d gone west, we figured an axe and crampons would be sensible and another few pounds were added. We crammed everything in, hoisted the packs, made the usual middle-aged groans about the weight and set off.

Glen Scaddle

GM ready for the off

The plan was a simple one and fits in with a more slack-packing style of walk. We would walk to the far end of Glen Scaddle, set up camp, do a couple of full days walking and then walk back out again.

Glen Scaddle In

6.8 miles

Glen Scaddle was just magnificent. The wind was behind us so it was perfect walking conditions, never too hot or too cold. After a mile or so we rounded a bend and  Sgurr Dhomhnuill appeared framed between the sides of the valley under a clear blue sky

Glen Scaddle, Druim Leathad nam Fias, Sgurr Dhomhnuill

Glen Scaddle, Druim Leathad nam Fias and a distant Sgurr Dhomhnuill

Even though the packs were heavy it’s easy to carry it under conditions like these. We were hoping that weather might be good out west but we had no real expectation it would be this good

Glen Scaddle, Sgurr Dhomhnuill

Sgurr Dhomhnuill

We pushed through the Glen with a line of trees along the bank of the river all the way. Sometimes we walked on the track, sometimes on the grass by the river-side. All the way the views of the hills we would be climbing just got better and better. There wasn’t a soul around

Ben Nevis, Glen Scaddle

GM does the hard miles

One problem with crampons is that you need a pretty solid pair of boots to attach them to. I’d brought my Salomon winter boots for the job and before I set off I debated walking in trainers and carrying them. The pack was already pretty heavy and full so I figured I’d just wear them. They are great boots on snow and rock but on a dry dusty flat gravel track and with the weight on my back they were purgatory. Before We’d gone 3 miles we stopped and I took the chance for the first in a series of running repairs to protect from blisters (zinc oxide tape – the old sticky variety – over an elastoplast)

Glen Scaddle

The Sherpa massages his blistered feet

Once past the ruined cottage of Creagbheitheachain there is a choice of path. The landrover track goes a couple of hundred metres up the hillside through the plantation before returning to the riverside. There is also a path right along the riverbank and we chose this option on the assumption it might be nicer and I thought it might be easier on my feet.

Glen Scaddle, Sgurr Dhomhnuill, Beinn na h-Uamha

Sgurr Dhomhnuill and Beinn na h-Uamha

Glen Scaddle

Trees lining the way

Paths like this are never as easy as they look with lots of little ups and downs and some boggy bits to wend around. One thing is for sure, it was stunning. With the river for company, the regular companionship from the trees along the bank and the ever-expanding views it was a joy. Only in the final mile did the path vanish and the going become tougher but we were soon back on the main track and eating up the miles again. We passed the locked estate bothy at Tighnacomaire where a sign directed you to a shelter further up the valley

Glen Scaddle, Tighnacomaire, Carn na Nathrach

Tighnacomaire Estate Bothy, Carn na Nathrach behind

By now I was feeling pretty weary. It was only a 6 mile flat walk but with the heavy pack it was a tiring effort. The views were still magnificent. GM told me he’d read a trip report that said Glen Scaddle was “the Konkordia of Scotland”. I can’t say it gave me a Himalayan aura but it didn’t need to. It was an absolutely stunning spot, one of the best Scottish glens I’ve walked in.

Glen Scaddle, Sgurr Dhomhnuill, Carn na Nathrach

Konkordia!

Just before we reached the shelter I was fit to drop and we spotted a potential site across the river. GM wasn’t happy with it and we pressed on a little further and we came to a superb spot at the point where the Gleann an Lochain Duibh meets the main river.

Glen Scaddle

River Crossing

It was a superb pitch with the stream at our side, a view the length of Glen Scaddle one side and the triple Corbetts of Sgurr Dhomhnuil, Carn na Nathrach and Beinn na h-Uamha the other way

Glen Scaddle, Gleann an Lochain Duibh,

Wild camp site at on the end of Gleann an Lochain Duibh

Glen Scaddle, Meall Dearg Choire nan Muc

Glen Scaddle and Meall Dearg Choire nan Muc

We dutifully set about making the place our home and after a pathetically poor attempt to put up my tent we finally completed the scene. The place even had a small bank that was perfect for sitting on to make brews and cook tea. Perfection

Glen Scaddle

Soaking it in

Glen Scaddle, Sgurr Dhomhnuill, Carn na Nathrach

Sunset over Sgurr Dhomhnuill and Carn na Nathrach

The site was just fabulous and fits in the “life doesn’t get better than this” category. Whilst I will always be a bit of peak bagger at heart, the joys of sitting in the (admittedly cold) sunshine with a fresh cuppa surrounded by views like these at a wild camp with a tinkling stream are music to the soul. I don’t know how people who don’t hike and backpack survive without it. De-stress? This is the way to do it

Glen Scaddle, Sgurr Dhomhnuill, Carn na Nathrach

Home from Home

Glen Scaddle, Meall Dearg Choire nan Muc

Evening light

We were enjoying the scene so much we left it a little late to cook. A quite ludicrous amount of stir fry veg and chicken with noodles was on the menu. Lightweight? Absolutely not! Delicious and filling. You bet. Nothing can take a chainsaw to your elation of fabulous setting like opening a food bag and realising its Chop Suey Beanfeast for tea. As I say I prefer to bear the weight of a decent meal

Glen Scaddle

Feast fit for a backpacker

Glen Scaddle

Caught in the act

After a meal spent in the glorious setting we took a stroll up the valley and found a whole host of quality wild camp pitches at the next river junction. The sunset was glorious but heralded a very rapid drop in temperature. There was ice forming on the tent before it was properly dark. We retreated indoors for a pre-sleep brew of tea before turning in. Water left in bowls and pots was already frozen. It was going to be a cold night

Sgurr Dhomhnuill, Carn na Nathrach
Pink Sky
Glen Scaddle

Yes, it was VERY cold

When we took a trip into Glen Kingie a couple of years back the walk in was on a similarly sunny day (albeit much warmer). We went to bed wondering how we would spend the next sunny day and it was raining before we were asleep. What would the weather hold in store for us tomorrow after this fine start?

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