A Proper Walk in the Berwyns   10 comments


The Berwyns have been a bit hit and miss for me. I walked them on a really gloomy day back in the 80’s by a wholly unsatisfactory route. We planned and then abandoned an outing a few years ago on the basis of a forecast of ceaseless rain that proved true. And shortly after I had another enjoyable yet somewhat unsuccessful and poorly judged outing you can read about here. This time a few weeks back everything seemed set fair with a decent forecast and after a Little Chef breakfast with Uncle Fester in Oswestry we headed for the hills.


One of the nice things about approaching the Berwyns from their most dramatic side, the east, is you get to start the walk at the marvellous waterfall of Pistyll Rhaeadr


Being a place of abundant rainfall the UK has many decent waterfalls. If there is a better one than Pistyll Rhaeadr I’d very much like to see it



After taking our fill of its delights it was time for some harder work. The views back along the Rhaeadr vally were superb


As were the views across to the lonely and tough Hirnants


There was a deeply soggy section between Trum Felen and Moel Sych but soon were on the first of the major Berwyn summits


The forecast was for an ever improving day and we were treated to some glorious views across to the main Snowdonia mountains and back towards Shropshire, Cheshire and as far as the Black Mountains and Brecon Beacons in South Wales


Llyn Luncaws also held the gaze (and as it turns out holds a lot of boggy ground!)



The highest and most dramatic point on the escarpment doesn’t seem to have its own name, a distinction that the slightly lower trig point on Cadair Berwyn owns


The walk along the edge from here is excellent with the weather and views improving with every step



The eastern views are quite unusual, merging high moorland with pastoral fields



We left UF to wnader back to the high point on his own while we and TJS headed out to bag the last major high point of Cadair Bronwen



In time honoured fashion we claimed that the views were substantially better from here (seeing as UF hadn’t bothered to climb it). We had thought about trying a circular route but its hard to craft one in the Berwyns without some re-ascent and path finding across farmland. On a day as good as this its no chore to retrace steps and enjoy the ridge all over again


After a lengthy stop on the high point for lunch we headed down. The direct descent towards Llyn Luncaws is very steep but we’d spotted a traversing path that looked, and in fact was, very interesting


Once down at the lake we realised its one of those lakes where the surrounding area is merely an extension of the lake with vegetation in it. Its incredibly boggy and hard going until you pick up the splendid path that traverses down the Nant y Llyn valley.


We followed the path all the way to the road a km past the car as it was such pleasant walking, delivering one final view of Pistyll Rhaeadr


The Berwyns finally conquered end to end in good weather and good company. A grand day out



10 responses to “A Proper Walk in the Berwyns

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  1. I just love the open vistas you get when hiking in the UK. Pistyll Rhaeadr is stunning. I’ve tried to imagine living beside it, on that farm. I don’t think I would tire of its roar, but I imagine winter would be long and very cold.


    • Its a fabulous spot but you’re right, it would be a dark and lonely place in winter. By UK standards these are very quiet and untrodden mountains despite the fact they have such fabulous views – they are very boggy though! 🙂


  2. Love the waterfall! And all that wide-open scenery. Another great hike!


  3. Great hills, the Berwyns: proper wild country and I’ve never seen them busy. I think whichever route you choose there will be a boggy bit somewhere along the line…


    • Hi Dave. A proper walk here to appreciate them has been a long time in the making. the combination of the expansive wild views, the grassy edges and the waterfall are a pretty irresistible combination. Surprising that its not more popular but they are quite hidden and off the beaten track


  4. Looks like you had a great walk, and clearly yet another route for me to add to my ‘to do’ list, That waterfall is amazing. The noise in the farm at the bottom when it’s in spate! What a thought.


    • This was the walk we planned and abandoned due to rain a few years ago. Worth a journey just to see the falls. You can camp at the farm as well. Some seriously wild terrain up in the mountains with some really varied views. All in all, a rather stonking place


  5. That is a truly stunning waterfall and a nice range of hills.


    Blue Sky Scotland

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