It couldn’t last. The sound of heavy rain beating a drum on the roof disturbed my night’s sleep. Still, a lie in was welcome and a leisurely breakfast inside for a change gave us a taste of home as the rain continued.
But not for long. The clouds started to break and things looked promising. By lunchtime there was sunshine and we headed to the beach. The nearby beaches are exposed to the Atlantic swell so we headed for the shelter of the large, brash and very well known resort of Playa de las Americas. I was hoping to avoid these heavily built up resorts, really the kind of place I hate but in fact it was rather pleasant. Sure it’s heavily developed and rather “Brits Abroad”- you know, “Ye Olde English Pub”, Full English Breakfast and lager, but it was all relatively tasteful and spotlessly clean and tidy.
It was the beach we’d come for and it really was a good one. PdlA has several beaches adnd we picked, or rather stumbled onto Playa de las Vistas. Water was crystal clear and warm and not excessively crowded. The weather had completely reverted and was now clear blue and sunny again. The rain had washed away the dusty air. It was perfect
We spread our rug and spent a very nice afternoon swimming and chilling out
You can see the collection of large inflatables laughingly referred to as a “Water Park”. We had a play without realising it wasn’t free and were told off by the owners. We had to spend a short penalty period on the naughty sandcastle.
There were even waves for a little body-surfing
Towards the end of the afternoon everyone heads home early so you have an hour when the beach is peaceful. Again it was nice to think that back home we’d more than likely have been sitting watching it get dark through rain-spattered windows
As the sun went down we strolled across the sands and watched the waves
I was really surprised how much I liked the place. There are no roads along the beachfront so it’s all walkways and it was a delight to wander about in nice relaxed family atmosphere. It’s probably a heaving mass in the heat of mid-summer but on a warm winters afternoon it really was stunning. It certainly teaches you not to believe all you read in the press and I was pleased that PdlA had surprised me so much
We were back home for sunset and the obligatory end of day photo. Rain in the morning, glorious again by the end
Back to the title of the post. Masca gorge is one most famous walks on the island. It scythes down through the NW mountains and down to the sea in a twisted gash of lava rock. I thought this would be a good family walk as it’s all downhill and you get a boat ride at the end. Takes a bit of organising. Taxi ride to village of Masca before the boat home. The drive is itself a spectacular one twisting up and then down to the isolated hamlet of Masca at the head of the gorge. It’s a truly breathtaking spot
After pithering around the village for a while and soaking up the stunning views we pitched down into the gorge
Along with most of the population of wester Europe. I said that this is one of Tenerife’s most famous walks and that means busy. Despite the fact that its remote and seriously awkward place to get to, it was heaving. It’s absolutely amazing with the gorge twisting and turning in serpentine fashion like a science experiment cross section through the layers of volcanic rock
Trouble is you share it with several hundred other people. Many of whom are brash, noisy and disrespectful of the majesty of the place. Many of whom are completely ill-equipped or up to the task of 300 foot descent down a narrow rocky gorge. Many of whom are too selfish and rude to stand back and let people past. Basically we had to queue to get down, most unsatisfactory and was well irritated by the time we finally reached the bottom
I should have used this guy’s stick to beat a path (I had no idea what he was using it for)
It really is a special, magical place that should be savoured. I’ve done similar gorge walks Greece and had them to myself and they are marvellous. It was such a shame that the Masca gorge was hard to love. My friends J&A (who were coincidentally on Tenerife at the same time, more on that in a letter post) had the right idea and walked it on Xmas day when it was deserted. It would be well worth making the effort to walk it either at first light or the end of the day to watch the sunset from the beach at the then simply walk back out again. I certainly wouldn’t want to walk it again in the middle of the day
We’d been pinning our hopes on a swim in the sea at the end of the walk. Problem was the “beach” was just huge boulders and crashing waves, far too dangerous for a swim. Possibly could have jumped in from the boat jetty but by the time we realised it was time to go
Still, the bay was magnificent in the afternoon sunshine
Getting on the boat was fun as the gangway rose and fell alarmingly with the waves. Timing your jump on-board was an added excitement
At least the ride along in the speedboat past the immense cliffs was breathtaking and made up for the few disappointments and frustrations of the day
We took a chance for a swim on the tiny beach at Los Gigantes. The waves were huge and the red flag was flying although the life guards seemed oblivious. I was happy to swim but the Funsters were edgy having been battered by waves and dragged across the sands a couple of days before
And yes TJS did get slapped on the back by the wave in the photo below 🙂
A day to class as an experience rather than one quite as fondly remembered as others. I’m glad we did it but I’m not sure I’d want to walk it again.
Back home for winter light on the surrounding mountains and yet another stunning sunset
Back to less crowded walking the next day