Rain, Grey Skies, Rivers and (still) Heavy Packs   4 comments

Second day of our Easter adventures was a total contrast. Blue skies and clear bold sunshine was replaced with leaden grey skies and a persistent rain. It had rained all night and a continuation led to an indoor breakfast. We finally emerged late morning as the rain stopped into a landscape drained of colour.

backpacking,  gleann iolairean, loch treig, Scotland, Scottish Highlands, Wild Camping, Staoineag, bothy,  Abhainn Rath, Sgurr Eilde Mor, mamores, Allt Gleann na Giubhsachan, corbett, glas Bheinn

backpacking,  gleann iolairean, loch treig, Scotland, Scottish Highlands, Wild Camping, Staoineag, bothy,  Abhainn Rath, Sgurr Eilde Mor, mamores, Allt Gleann na Giubhsachan, corbett, glas Bheinn

We pithered and pottered about the vicinity unsure what to do. We were still a little tired after the previous days exploits and as even the lower summits were smothered there seemed little point in any kind of hill climb.

backpacking,  gleann iolairean, loch treig, Scotland, Scottish Highlands, Wild Camping, Staoineag, bothy,  Abhainn Rath, Sgurr Eilde Mor, mamores, Allt Gleann na Giubhsachan, corbett, glas Bheinn

backpacking,  gleann iolairean, loch treig, Scotland, Scottish Highlands, Wild Camping, Staoineag, bothy,  Abhainn Rath, Sgurr Eilde Mor, mamores, Allt Gleann na Giubhsachan, corbett, glas Bheinn

backpacking,  gleann iolairean, loch treig, Scotland, Scottish Highlands, Wild Camping, Staoineag, bothy,  Abhainn Rath, Sgurr Eilde Mor, mamores, Allt Gleann na Giubhsachan, corbett, glas Bheinn

After a leisurely lunch we perused options and decided to move on. Whilst a pleasant enough spot the campsite wasn’t what we had in mind and wasn’t well placed for what we’d planned. I still really wanted to see the valley around Staoineag bothy so we hoisted the still rather too heavy packs and pushed on

backpacking,  gleann iolairean, loch treig, Scotland, Scottish Highlands, Wild Camping, Staoineag, bothy,  Abhainn Rath, Sgurr Eilde Mor, mamores, Allt Gleann na Giubhsachan, corbett, glas Bheinn

It’s only a short walk with no climbing but it was still hard work, not helped by the intermittent drizzle that kept falling. We decided on the path along the south side of the Abhainn Rath, a fairly mighty river. A somewhat sketchy and infuriating path but even on a grey day a fine stretch of Scottish valley.

backpacking,  gleann iolairean, loch treig, Scotland, Scottish Highlands, Wild Camping, Staoineag, bothy,  Abhainn Rath, Sgurr Eilde Mor, mamores, Allt Gleann na Giubhsachan, corbett, glas Bheinn

backpacking,  gleann iolairean, loch treig, Scotland, Scottish Highlands, Wild Camping, Staoineag, bothy,  Abhainn Rath, Sgurr Eilde Mor, mamores, Allt Gleann na Giubhsachan, corbett, glas Bheinn

We passed by the deserted bothy, quite a fine one, but no-one was around and no-one had made an entry in the book for a couple of weeks. Despite its remoteness I was sure it was a well-known and popular bothy and was surprised that even on an Easter weekend we saw no-one this day or any other indulging in its charms. TJS was curious to see his first bothy up close and seemed to agree with me that they can appear rather gloomy and depressing. We had planned on walking a couple of km up-river from the bothy but a few hundred yards beyond seemed far enough and we found a rather splendid spot by the river. There are any number of cracking riverside spots along this stretch on both sides of the river but the one that allowed us to drop the packs at the earliest opportunity seemed the best one.

We were soon pitched up, again in more drizzle, with the sight and sound of a roaring waterfall on the river our companion for the next 3 nights. More rain forced us to cook inside and, well, that was that for the second day. We hoped for better the next day

backpacking,  gleann iolairean, loch treig, Scotland, Scottish Highlands, Wild Camping, Staoineag, bothy,  Abhainn Rath, Sgurr Eilde Mor, mamores, Allt Gleann na Giubhsachan, corbett, glas Bheinn

It was, but only marginally. The cloud had lifted a bit and the rain had stopped but it was still generally grey. Having achieved GM’s objective (Leum Uilleim) now it was my turn and we headed off up the valley towards Sgurr Eilde Mor, the only one of the mighty Mamores ridge I’ve not done. I have a fondness for these majestic range of mountains and not just because their name means mammaries! 🙂 One of the best ridges on the mainland with an array of massive peaks and narrow twisting ridges

We’d only gone a few hundred meters when we hit our first problem. The Allt Gleann na Giubhsachan doesn’t look like much on the map but it was wide and deep enough to need a substantial wade which none of us fancied. One look up at the hills that were white 2 days ago and now merely streaked white highlighted the blindingly obvious point that there was a thaw in progress and the rivers were full of snowmelt. We wandered up the eastern bank looking for somewhere to cross but it became obvious we weren’t going to cross it.

backpacking,  gleann iolairean, loch treig, Scotland, Scottish Highlands, Wild Camping, Staoineag, bothy,  Abhainn Rath, Sgurr Eilde Mor, mamores, Allt Gleann na Giubhsachan, corbett, glas Bheinn

backpacking,  gleann iolairean, loch treig, Scotland, Scottish Highlands, Wild Camping, Staoineag, bothy,  Abhainn Rath, Sgurr Eilde Mor, mamores, Allt Gleann na Giubhsachan, corbett, glas Bheinn

Where the river was wide and slow it was still enough to be a least a knee-deep wade. Where it was narrow enough to consider a salmon-leap the penalties for a mistake were serious. It was clear any progress further west was out of the question and my Munro bagging had gone for the weekend. Had we realised we could have easily chosen to walk up and camp on the northern side of the Abhainn Rath and stood a chance of progress west. Too late now though so a new plan was needed. (There are stepping stones at Staoineag, but they were deep underwater and must only be exposed in the driest of conditions – a contradiction in terms in the Highlands!)

backpacking,  gleann iolairean, loch treig, Scotland, Scottish Highlands, Wild Camping, Staoineag, bothy,  Abhainn Rath, Sgurr Eilde Mor, mamores, Allt Gleann na Giubhsachan, corbett, glas Bheinn

backpacking,  gleann iolairean, loch treig, Scotland, Scottish Highlands, Wild Camping, Staoineag, bothy,  Abhainn Rath, Sgurr Eilde Mor, mamores, Allt Gleann na Giubhsachan, corbett, glas Bheinn

Luckily there was a Corbett within reach, the remote and lofty Glas Bheinn. Even so we still had travel pretty much to the source of the river near the watershed before we could cross it, GM daringly, me and TJS a little more cautiously.

backpacking,  gleann iolairean, loch treig, Scotland, Scottish Highlands, Wild Camping, Staoineag, bothy,  Abhainn Rath, Sgurr Eilde Mor, mamores, Allt Gleann na Giubhsachan, corbett, glas Bheinn

backpacking,  gleann iolairean, loch treig, Scotland, Scottish Highlands, Wild Camping, Staoineag, bothy,  Abhainn Rath, Sgurr Eilde Mor, mamores, Allt Gleann na Giubhsachan, corbett, glas Bheinn

The higher corries appeared momentarily from the gloom giving a glimmer of hope for better weather and the river valley was wild, remote and rather splendid. Sometimes you can extract enjoyment just exploring a valley the probably sees almost no human traffic.

backpacking,  gleann iolairean, loch treig, Scotland, Scottish Highlands, Wild Camping, Staoineag, bothy,  Abhainn Rath, Sgurr Eilde Mor, mamores, Allt Gleann na Giubhsachan, corbett, glas Bheinn

After a brief lunch we made a direct line up the slopes to the summit ridge and then pressed on to the top. It was cold, damp and cloudy up there and the snow was deep, wet and tiresome.

backpacking,  gleann iolairean, loch treig, Scotland, Scottish Highlands, Wild Camping, Staoineag, bothy,  Abhainn Rath, Sgurr Eilde Mor, mamores, Allt Gleann na Giubhsachan, corbett, glas Bheinn

backpacking,  gleann iolairean, loch treig, Scotland, Scottish Highlands, Wild Camping, Staoineag, bothy,  Abhainn Rath, Sgurr Eilde Mor, mamores, Allt Gleann na Giubhsachan, corbett, glas Bheinn

backpacking,  gleann iolairean, loch treig, Scotland, Scottish Highlands, Wild Camping, Staoineag, bothy,  Abhainn Rath, Sgurr Eilde Mor, mamores, Allt Gleann na Giubhsachan, corbett, glas Bheinn

We lingered no more than a minute on the summit before heading straight back down, pleased to have made a decent summit on such a day.

backpacking,  gleann iolairean, loch treig, Scotland, Scottish Highlands, Wild Camping, Staoineag, bothy,  Abhainn Rath, Sgurr Eilde Mor, mamores, Allt Gleann na Giubhsachan, corbett, glas Bheinn

backpacking,  gleann iolairean, loch treig, Scotland, Scottish Highlands, Wild Camping, Staoineag, bothy,  Abhainn Rath, Sgurr Eilde Mor, mamores, Allt Gleann na Giubhsachan, corbett, glas Bheinn

As we returned to our point of ascent the cloud started to break and we got some tantalising glimpses of mountains and the wild remote moors and lakes of Rannoch Moor and Blackwater Reservoir. There was even some sunshine and the air seemed to dry out while we watched. The snow was even worse on the descent and snow melt was filling every gully with water. TJS was getting his first experience of truly wet feet, anything he’d experienced before but a mere damp rag compared to the proper slosh of a boot exposed to Scottish bog and melting snow.

backpacking,  gleann iolairean, loch treig, Scotland, Scottish Highlands, Wild Camping, Staoineag, bothy,  Abhainn Rath, Sgurr Eilde Mor, mamores, Allt Gleann na Giubhsachan, corbett, glas Bheinn

backpacking,  gleann iolairean, loch treig, Scotland, Scottish Highlands, Wild Camping, Staoineag, bothy,  Abhainn Rath, Sgurr Eilde Mor, mamores, Allt Gleann na Giubhsachan, corbett, glas Bheinn

backpacking,  gleann iolairean, loch treig, Scotland, Scottish Highlands, Wild Camping, Staoineag, bothy,  Abhainn Rath, Sgurr Eilde Mor, mamores, Allt Gleann na Giubhsachan, corbett, glas Bheinn

backpacking,  gleann iolairean, loch treig, Scotland, Scottish Highlands, Wild Camping, Staoineag, bothy,  Abhainn Rath, Sgurr Eilde Mor, mamores, Allt Gleann na Giubhsachan, corbett, glas Bheinn

GM left us behind, hopefully to get the brew on (which he did, bless him) and me and TJS ambled down at our own pace. In fact TJS put on a bit of burst near the end and left me trailing in his wake. All the time the weather was improving and there were even some patches of blue. He’d gone a little quiet and I think he was disappointed that his first Munro seemed unlikely now that the melting snow had cut off our planned objectives in the Mamore or the Grey Corries

backpacking,  gleann iolairean, loch treig, Scotland, Scottish Highlands, Wild Camping, Staoineag, bothy,  Abhainn Rath, Sgurr Eilde Mor, mamores, Allt Gleann na Giubhsachan, corbett, glas Bheinn

backpacking,  gleann iolairean, loch treig, Scotland, Scottish Highlands, Wild Camping, Staoineag, bothy,  Abhainn Rath, Sgurr Eilde Mor, mamores, Allt Gleann na Giubhsachan, corbett, glas Bheinn

It had been a pretty good day.

Lochaber 2

We had the first chance to enjoy our chosen site. It was a rather grand spot and we were pleased with our choice and relaxed into wild campsite slumming about

backpacking,  gleann iolairean, loch treig, Scotland, Scottish Highlands, Wild Camping, Staoineag, bothy,  Abhainn Rath, Sgurr Eilde Mor, mamores, Allt Gleann na Giubhsachan, corbett, glas Bheinn

backpacking,  gleann iolairean, loch treig, Scotland, Scottish Highlands, Wild Camping, Staoineag, bothy,  Abhainn Rath, Sgurr Eilde Mor, mamores, Allt Gleann na Giubhsachan, corbett, glas Bheinn

backpacking,  gleann iolairean, loch treig, Scotland, Scottish Highlands, Wild Camping, Staoineag, bothy,  Abhainn Rath, Sgurr Eilde Mor, mamores, Allt Gleann na Giubhsachan, corbett, glas Bheinn

backpacking,  gleann iolairean, loch treig, Scotland, Scottish Highlands, Wild Camping, Staoineag, bothy,  Abhainn Rath, Sgurr Eilde Mor, mamores, Allt Gleann na Giubhsachan, corbett, glas Bheinn

backpacking,  gleann iolairean, loch treig, Scotland, Scottish Highlands, Wild Camping, Staoineag, bothy,  Abhainn Rath, Sgurr Eilde Mor, mamores, Allt Gleann na Giubhsachan, corbett, glas Bheinn

backpacking,  gleann iolairean, loch treig, Scotland, Scottish Highlands, Wild Camping, Staoineag, bothy,  Abhainn Rath, Sgurr Eilde Mor, mamores, Allt Gleann na Giubhsachan, corbett, glas Bheinn

It was chilly enough to want to eat inside the tent though. When we emerged again, the light dimmed and the sun weakly appeared. We were treated to a show of cloud billowing over Glas Bheinn and fleeting glimpses of the surrounding and smaller hills. A fitting finale

backpacking,  gleann iolairean, loch treig, Scotland, Scottish Highlands, Wild Camping, Staoineag, bothy,  Abhainn Rath, Sgurr Eilde Mor, mamores, Allt Gleann na Giubhsachan, corbett, glas Bheinn

backpacking,  gleann iolairean, loch treig, Scotland, Scottish Highlands, Wild Camping, Staoineag, bothy,  Abhainn Rath, Sgurr Eilde Mor, mamores, Allt Gleann na Giubhsachan, corbett, glas Bheinn

Our mood and enthusiasm brightened considerably. Nothing like a calm evening out in the wilds with a cuppa and a fruit pie. TJS mood was even more brightened when GM gave us a plan for the next day. The Easains above Loch Treig were in reach for some Munro bagging providing we didn’t mind the out and back down to Loch Treig again the way we’d walked in. A hefty old day as they top out over 1100m but well within reach. I’d forgotten they were there to be honest such was my desire to bag the ridges further west. Now we had a plan for the next day and the hope of a further improvement in the weather to send us away to bed

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4 responses to “Rain, Grey Skies, Rivers and (still) Heavy Packs

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  1. Oh, the liquid delights of the Scottish hillside during snowmelt! It’s a well known fact that your Scottish hillside is 99% water at the best of times. I was pleased, in the slideshow, to see one photo of TJS smiling – just to prove you weren’t torturing him.
    I’m with you on the Mamores – a great series of ridges. I’m ‘missing’ Sgurr Eilde Mor too, and possibly Binnien Beag. Stream crossings are always more of an issue in the highlands, I’ve been caught out that way a few times.

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    beatingthebounds
    • I’ve taken him off piste in the Welsh Mountains before but this was an order of magnitude wilder and wetter. He’s a teenager so any kind of smile is a result. Whilst it was a bit disappointing not get onto the Mamores or the Grey Corries we did manage a rather fine summit the next day. Coming soon to a blog near you

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  2. A bit of tenacity and you got over the water in the end!
    Looks a fantastic camping spot 🙂

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    • I never gave up hope – well in so much as the river had to have a source somewhere!
      A fine campsite although a bit lumpy, more to do with the huge footprint of my tent than any failing with terrain. The fact that Ben Nevis, all majestic and snowy was sitting right there hidden by cloud and revealed the next day was the crowning glory. Completely deserted as well, barely saw a soul all weekend

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